Henry Bockman
Maryland Pressure Washing
I agree Tim, I would post my stuff to an open area also. I'd just like to know that others will do the same so that we can all get something free out of it.
Newsletters
- Thread starter Tim Smith
- Start date
Henry Bockman
Maryland Pressure Washing
Here is an article I wrote a couple months ago for a local paper.
The Art of Pressure Washing
Pressure washing may seem like something that's easily done to remove mildew and mold from your deck, patios and siding. However, many homeowners have found that there is quite a bit more involved than just renting a machine and blasting it off your property. Over the years it’s become a skill that most homeowners have decided they don't have the time or patience to learn how to do it properly.
Since the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) started banning the use of pressure treated wood due to chromated copper arsenate (CCA), most people have decided to seal their wood decks as the EPA suggests to prevent the arsenic from leaching into the soil. Most homeowners use local companies to pressure wash their decks and siding to save valuable time and the expense of rental equipment and some prefer to do the job themselves on a hot summer day. If you decide to hire a contractor to perform the work for you, there are a lot of important questions you need to ask before you should allow them to work on your home. First, make sure the company your hiring has the experience and the right equipment to perform the job properly, using more than 1,000 PSI or less than 4gpm can cause damage to wood. In Maryland, your also required to have a Maryland Home Improvement License (MHIC) for sealing decks or any repairs and it must be listed in all advertising and vehicles.
Make sure that any contractor you hire has a copy of this license and a long history of performing work in the area also; check them out with The Better Business Bureau. Another way to protect yourself is to use a company with certifications and affiliations in their industry like The Power Washers of North America.
The PWNA is the recognized leader in developing and communicating the highest standards in ethical business practices, environmental awareness, and safety through continuing education and active representation of the membership. PWNA educated and trained contractors raise the level of professionalism and value to their customers, and run a National Clean Across American project from July 24th-31st for various charities. For information about this project see their website at www.pwna.org
Unfortunately, many homeowners have tried using an unlicensed or inexperienced contractor offering a lower price, in some cases this may end up with the job uncompleted or worse, done improperly causing thousands of dollars in damage.
It will cost more time and money to find the right contractor for you but it could cost far more, to hire a company without the proper experience or to do the job yourself. For example, most people don't know that using household bleach to remove the mold and mildew from your deck will actually damage the woods lignin fibers. Or that too much pressure can also damage the woods surface and cause it to splinter or fur. To many companies have decided they could tackle it without the proper training and with most machines putting out an average of 3,000 PSI it can be dangerous to the operator and your property. Properly learning the techniques and training for cleaning wood takes time, training and a long-term investment, each deck or house is different and they all require special attention. First you have to find out if there is an existing sealer or stain on the deck and how to remove it properly. Very similar to painting, deck sealers and preservatives won't properly adhere to a wood surface that has an existing sealer on it. First this product must be removed from the deck using a stripping agent and you must take steps to ensure that the stripping agent will not harm the plants or siding on the home. Most deck stripping agents have a sodium hydroxide base that will remove the existing sealer or stain and then it can be washed off with a pressure washer using a maximum of 1,000 PSI. When using a pressure washer you must clean with the grain of the wood the entire length of the board. By varying your distance from the wood or not going with the grain you may cause marks and discoloration in the surface. If done carefully, this will leave you with a clean surface for the next step.
Now that you have used a deck stripper to remove the last sealer, the surface must be neutralized so the sealer will absorb and adhere to the wood. Wood and other surfaces can be neutralized using citric or oxalic acid to bring them to a neutral Ph level, Oxalic acid will also remove tannin or leaf stains and also those iron or rust stains from rusting furniture. Now your wood surface is ready to be sealed and there are many other options to consider. The various sealers can be confusing to some but it’s important to use a product that has ultraviolet protection from the suns rays. Most sealers have some UV protection, various oils to moisturize the wood and mildew prevention to fight the growth of mildew and mold. The best UV protection can be found in sealers that contain a pigment or stain, almost all of these products form a film on the woods surface, that may wear off with foot traffic or pets, they are semi-transparent allowing the woods natural grain to show while adding a tint of color to the surface. They will also help blend the over all color of the wood if some of your lumber has a different shade than others. You can also use products with solid colors, which don't allow the natural wood grain to show through and in most cases they usually appear to be painted when completed. Then there are preservative-based deck sealers that will penetrate into the wood. These products come in clear and different stain colors and they tend to last the longer because they penetrate into the wood. This allows the oils in the sealer to penetrate into the wood, which keep the wood from dry rotting, cracking, and also blocks the suns UV rays. These preservative sealers will hold up twice as long as the surface film forming agents and they will extend the life of the wood.
Pressure washing siding may seem safer to take on yourself but if you don't have the proper tools and experience it could cost far more than you intended as well. Some of the most common mistakes made by homeowners and contractors are trying to remove the powdery coating called oxidation on aluminum siding. Removing this coating can cause discoloration and in some cases cause the siding to look like a completely different color. Using too much pressure can also force water up behind the siding where it will cause mildew behind the siding or in some cases, blow the siding off the house! Washing the house from the top down or letting chemicals dry on the house, which may leave streaks on the siding. Using a ladder to clean the upper areas of a house can result in serious injuries and death from slipping off the ladder.
These are the types of mishaps that many people have when attempting to do a quick power washing of their home. If you decide to use a power washer on your home, we would be happy to tell you how to do the job safely and correctly or to find a reputable and experienced company.
Henry Bockman
President, Henry's Housework Inc.
MHIC#65039 Licensed, bonded and insured.
www.Henryshousework.com
301 353 9287
The Art of Pressure Washing
Pressure washing may seem like something that's easily done to remove mildew and mold from your deck, patios and siding. However, many homeowners have found that there is quite a bit more involved than just renting a machine and blasting it off your property. Over the years it’s become a skill that most homeowners have decided they don't have the time or patience to learn how to do it properly.
Since the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) started banning the use of pressure treated wood due to chromated copper arsenate (CCA), most people have decided to seal their wood decks as the EPA suggests to prevent the arsenic from leaching into the soil. Most homeowners use local companies to pressure wash their decks and siding to save valuable time and the expense of rental equipment and some prefer to do the job themselves on a hot summer day. If you decide to hire a contractor to perform the work for you, there are a lot of important questions you need to ask before you should allow them to work on your home. First, make sure the company your hiring has the experience and the right equipment to perform the job properly, using more than 1,000 PSI or less than 4gpm can cause damage to wood. In Maryland, your also required to have a Maryland Home Improvement License (MHIC) for sealing decks or any repairs and it must be listed in all advertising and vehicles.
Make sure that any contractor you hire has a copy of this license and a long history of performing work in the area also; check them out with The Better Business Bureau. Another way to protect yourself is to use a company with certifications and affiliations in their industry like The Power Washers of North America.
The PWNA is the recognized leader in developing and communicating the highest standards in ethical business practices, environmental awareness, and safety through continuing education and active representation of the membership. PWNA educated and trained contractors raise the level of professionalism and value to their customers, and run a National Clean Across American project from July 24th-31st for various charities. For information about this project see their website at www.pwna.org
Unfortunately, many homeowners have tried using an unlicensed or inexperienced contractor offering a lower price, in some cases this may end up with the job uncompleted or worse, done improperly causing thousands of dollars in damage.
It will cost more time and money to find the right contractor for you but it could cost far more, to hire a company without the proper experience or to do the job yourself. For example, most people don't know that using household bleach to remove the mold and mildew from your deck will actually damage the woods lignin fibers. Or that too much pressure can also damage the woods surface and cause it to splinter or fur. To many companies have decided they could tackle it without the proper training and with most machines putting out an average of 3,000 PSI it can be dangerous to the operator and your property. Properly learning the techniques and training for cleaning wood takes time, training and a long-term investment, each deck or house is different and they all require special attention. First you have to find out if there is an existing sealer or stain on the deck and how to remove it properly. Very similar to painting, deck sealers and preservatives won't properly adhere to a wood surface that has an existing sealer on it. First this product must be removed from the deck using a stripping agent and you must take steps to ensure that the stripping agent will not harm the plants or siding on the home. Most deck stripping agents have a sodium hydroxide base that will remove the existing sealer or stain and then it can be washed off with a pressure washer using a maximum of 1,000 PSI. When using a pressure washer you must clean with the grain of the wood the entire length of the board. By varying your distance from the wood or not going with the grain you may cause marks and discoloration in the surface. If done carefully, this will leave you with a clean surface for the next step.
Now that you have used a deck stripper to remove the last sealer, the surface must be neutralized so the sealer will absorb and adhere to the wood. Wood and other surfaces can be neutralized using citric or oxalic acid to bring them to a neutral Ph level, Oxalic acid will also remove tannin or leaf stains and also those iron or rust stains from rusting furniture. Now your wood surface is ready to be sealed and there are many other options to consider. The various sealers can be confusing to some but it’s important to use a product that has ultraviolet protection from the suns rays. Most sealers have some UV protection, various oils to moisturize the wood and mildew prevention to fight the growth of mildew and mold. The best UV protection can be found in sealers that contain a pigment or stain, almost all of these products form a film on the woods surface, that may wear off with foot traffic or pets, they are semi-transparent allowing the woods natural grain to show while adding a tint of color to the surface. They will also help blend the over all color of the wood if some of your lumber has a different shade than others. You can also use products with solid colors, which don't allow the natural wood grain to show through and in most cases they usually appear to be painted when completed. Then there are preservative-based deck sealers that will penetrate into the wood. These products come in clear and different stain colors and they tend to last the longer because they penetrate into the wood. This allows the oils in the sealer to penetrate into the wood, which keep the wood from dry rotting, cracking, and also blocks the suns UV rays. These preservative sealers will hold up twice as long as the surface film forming agents and they will extend the life of the wood.
Pressure washing siding may seem safer to take on yourself but if you don't have the proper tools and experience it could cost far more than you intended as well. Some of the most common mistakes made by homeowners and contractors are trying to remove the powdery coating called oxidation on aluminum siding. Removing this coating can cause discoloration and in some cases cause the siding to look like a completely different color. Using too much pressure can also force water up behind the siding where it will cause mildew behind the siding or in some cases, blow the siding off the house! Washing the house from the top down or letting chemicals dry on the house, which may leave streaks on the siding. Using a ladder to clean the upper areas of a house can result in serious injuries and death from slipping off the ladder.
These are the types of mishaps that many people have when attempting to do a quick power washing of their home. If you decide to use a power washer on your home, we would be happy to tell you how to do the job safely and correctly or to find a reputable and experienced company.
Henry Bockman
President, Henry's Housework Inc.
MHIC#65039 Licensed, bonded and insured.
www.Henryshousework.com
301 353 9287
Good Article.......
Have you notice all these Newsletters from other boards popping up. Same with logo's - three or so years ago, there were not many logos out there - now its so common. Read the history (older threads), this marketing section on this board is leading the way in changing this industry in a marketing aspect as well as its public perception. Not only logos, but Slogans were brought to life on this board. I got a feeling that the next thing that will be commonly used as a business and marketing tool is a mission statement. Just got a feeling. The least little thing can make all the difference - give you that Competitive Advantage.
Once again, Great article - great for public perception.
Have you notice all these Newsletters from other boards popping up. Same with logo's - three or so years ago, there were not many logos out there - now its so common. Read the history (older threads), this marketing section on this board is leading the way in changing this industry in a marketing aspect as well as its public perception. Not only logos, but Slogans were brought to life on this board. I got a feeling that the next thing that will be commonly used as a business and marketing tool is a mission statement. Just got a feeling. The least little thing can make all the difference - give you that Competitive Advantage.
Once again, Great article - great for public perception.
Henry Bockman
Maryland Pressure Washing
Thanks Tim,
Yes, I've noticed that a lot of us seem to come up with similiar ideas around the same time. I think it's mostly because we all go through the stages where we get these great ideas and want to implement them... NOW! lol
For many people one thread on a board can lead them to an idea like doing a newsletter even if no one actually says newsletter. It's kinda cool.
Once Mike builds an area on here for all the stuff I'll start uploading my older stuff and some of the new ones like that article. I'd like to be able to use my own stuff first myself, after I've used it though I don't care who uses it. The only thing we have to be careful of is giving credit to actual writers like the one in the artillery fungus thing. I've used that before but listed the writer. (as required)
Here's a copy of it.
By Gene Austin
Philadelphia Inquirer
March 3, 2001
If your siding, car, fence or any other surfaces around your house have broken out with a rash of black or dark-brown specks that do not want to come off, you are probably at war with something called artillery fungus.
It has become increasingly common in recent years, according to experts who have been seeking ways to control and eradicate it.
Artillery fungus, also called shotgun fungus or Sphaerobolus stellatus, usually originates in wood-chip mulch that is used around shrubs, flowers and other plants. Wet, rotting mulch breeds small mushrooms that shoot off spores for distances of up to 20 feet. The spores, which are sometimes mistaken for insect waste or bits of tar, cling tenaciously to surfaces such as house siding.
"It's just like Super Glue," said Don Davis, professor of plant pathology at Pennsylvania State University's College of Agricultural Sciences. Davis and Larry Kuhns, professor of horticulture, have been leading a five-year study of the fungus, and they expect the study to continue for several more years.
Davis said he gets 20 to 30calls a week during the fungus' most active seasons - generally spring and fall when temperatures range between 50 and 68 degrees. Davis said the rapid spread of the fungus and the growing number of fungus-damaged homes appear to be linked to the growing use of mulches made from recycled hardwood scraps and tree stumps.
Homeowners can take a key step to control artillery fungus by cleaning up wood-chip mulch around the house and disposing of it before the shooting starts again in April or May.
Here are some additional tips:
• Control. Bark mulch appears to be more resistant to the fungus than wood-chip mulch. Davis said pine-bark chunks seem to be the most resistant, and cedar, redwood and cypress mulch also appear to be resistant. "Even these mulches should be replaced every few years," he said.
• Davis said stone mulch (usually small, decorative stones) "is the ultimate answer" to artillery fungus. Black plastic, held in place by stones or boards, is also safe, and some homeowners are getting good results with leaf mulch.
Kuhns said fungicides do not work well because "it's hard to determine when the mulch becomes infested, making the timing of the application . . . difficult."
• Insurance. If your house is damaged by artillery fungus, check with the agent handling your homeowners insurance. Most policies do not cover damage from fungus or mildew, but some do.
• Power-washing. Once the fungus becomes attached to a surface, even power-washing is not effective unless it is done within a few weeks of a fungal outbreak.
• One power-washing expert said he was able to remove the fungus using 200-degree water, with water pressure of 3,000 pounds per square inch, but this combination of hot water and high pressure can damage some types of siding.
• Scraping. Artillery fungus can be removed from windows by scraping with a razor blade. Scraping also can remove some of the black specks from smooth siding, but several homeowners who tried this reported that a brown residue remains and can't be removed. Scraping can gouge vinyl and painted siding.
Gene Austin welcomes readers' questions and comments, but he cannot give personal replies. Address correspondence to Gene Austin, the Philadelphia Inquirer, P.O. Box 8263, Philadelphia, PA 19101.
Artillery Fungus
This is a picture of Artillery fungus on siding.(Sphaerobolus stellatus)
Yes, I've noticed that a lot of us seem to come up with similiar ideas around the same time. I think it's mostly because we all go through the stages where we get these great ideas and want to implement them... NOW! lol
For many people one thread on a board can lead them to an idea like doing a newsletter even if no one actually says newsletter. It's kinda cool.
Once Mike builds an area on here for all the stuff I'll start uploading my older stuff and some of the new ones like that article. I'd like to be able to use my own stuff first myself, after I've used it though I don't care who uses it. The only thing we have to be careful of is giving credit to actual writers like the one in the artillery fungus thing. I've used that before but listed the writer. (as required)
Here's a copy of it.
By Gene Austin
Philadelphia Inquirer
March 3, 2001
If your siding, car, fence or any other surfaces around your house have broken out with a rash of black or dark-brown specks that do not want to come off, you are probably at war with something called artillery fungus.
It has become increasingly common in recent years, according to experts who have been seeking ways to control and eradicate it.
Artillery fungus, also called shotgun fungus or Sphaerobolus stellatus, usually originates in wood-chip mulch that is used around shrubs, flowers and other plants. Wet, rotting mulch breeds small mushrooms that shoot off spores for distances of up to 20 feet. The spores, which are sometimes mistaken for insect waste or bits of tar, cling tenaciously to surfaces such as house siding.
"It's just like Super Glue," said Don Davis, professor of plant pathology at Pennsylvania State University's College of Agricultural Sciences. Davis and Larry Kuhns, professor of horticulture, have been leading a five-year study of the fungus, and they expect the study to continue for several more years.
Davis said he gets 20 to 30calls a week during the fungus' most active seasons - generally spring and fall when temperatures range between 50 and 68 degrees. Davis said the rapid spread of the fungus and the growing number of fungus-damaged homes appear to be linked to the growing use of mulches made from recycled hardwood scraps and tree stumps.
Homeowners can take a key step to control artillery fungus by cleaning up wood-chip mulch around the house and disposing of it before the shooting starts again in April or May.
Here are some additional tips:
• Control. Bark mulch appears to be more resistant to the fungus than wood-chip mulch. Davis said pine-bark chunks seem to be the most resistant, and cedar, redwood and cypress mulch also appear to be resistant. "Even these mulches should be replaced every few years," he said.
• Davis said stone mulch (usually small, decorative stones) "is the ultimate answer" to artillery fungus. Black plastic, held in place by stones or boards, is also safe, and some homeowners are getting good results with leaf mulch.
Kuhns said fungicides do not work well because "it's hard to determine when the mulch becomes infested, making the timing of the application . . . difficult."
• Insurance. If your house is damaged by artillery fungus, check with the agent handling your homeowners insurance. Most policies do not cover damage from fungus or mildew, but some do.
• Power-washing. Once the fungus becomes attached to a surface, even power-washing is not effective unless it is done within a few weeks of a fungal outbreak.
• One power-washing expert said he was able to remove the fungus using 200-degree water, with water pressure of 3,000 pounds per square inch, but this combination of hot water and high pressure can damage some types of siding.
• Scraping. Artillery fungus can be removed from windows by scraping with a razor blade. Scraping also can remove some of the black specks from smooth siding, but several homeowners who tried this reported that a brown residue remains and can't be removed. Scraping can gouge vinyl and painted siding.
Gene Austin welcomes readers' questions and comments, but he cannot give personal replies. Address correspondence to Gene Austin, the Philadelphia Inquirer, P.O. Box 8263, Philadelphia, PA 19101.
Artillery Fungus
This is a picture of Artillery fungus on siding.(Sphaerobolus stellatus)
Henry Bockman
Maryland Pressure Washing
For those of you that are interested in doing your own newsletters, I've run acrossed a company called constantcontact.com that has a really nice and easy setup for doing newsletters. They are cheap and I really like the layout and the way it works.
I'm also trying to find people that would be interested in trading content for newsletters. If your interested in doing this let me know. My goal is to send out a newsletter each month to everyone I can. This will keep my company name in front of people and to expand with very little cost.
If you have any questions let me know.
I'm also trying to find people that would be interested in trading content for newsletters. If your interested in doing this let me know. My goal is to send out a newsletter each month to everyone I can. This will keep my company name in front of people and to expand with very little cost.
If you have any questions let me know.
Henry Bockman
Maryland Pressure Washing
Hey Grant,
Sorry about that, funny thing is I never really thought about it. I was just putting it in each thread to continue them on a bit. I didn't think about people doing a search for new posts even though that's what I do. Maybe I'm getting senile..LOL
Sorry about that, funny thing is I never really thought about it. I was just putting it in each thread to continue them on a bit. I didn't think about people doing a search for new posts even though that's what I do. Maybe I'm getting senile..LOL