Remote DS Unit

814jeffw

Active member
Hey Benjamin,..I am actually using the DEMA valves as well I bought one at about $80.00 to the door,..and I got one on sale for $60.00 to the door.,..But I did buy the $12.00 plastic/Viton valve as a backup and to also test these cheap units out,..so it won't be getting used as much as it isn't the primary valve. But for the sake of it,..and considering it's a relatively quick switch over ,..I may just install the "cheapy",..and use it full time and see how it holds up.

Yes,.I want to get the remotes also that buzz or vibrate with the "Feedback Function",....the lights work ok,..but I had trouble seeing them yesterday in the Sun. The remote worked well though. How it holds up,.time will tell,..I went the cheap route at first mostly due to not understanding how these remote units are put together,..now I get it and they are VERY easy that no one should be intimidated by wiring one up,....and these cheap parts will do to get someones feet wet.

Hal mentioned using a remote that vibrates,..I'd like a link to it if possible. Thanks Hal.

Benjamin,..are you using a remote with "feedback Function",..and if so could you please provide a link. I can find a couple,..but are all over seas? The USA has to have these I'd think?

Jeff
 

814jeffw

Active member
Ok,..I realize I'm late to the party,..but just so others aren't late,..If you DS,.....a remote unit is NOW standard equipment, Don't even think about it,.. like I did the last couple years ,..just get one rigged up. The remote I'm using is cheap and may not hold up,..I don't know,...but as of now it is working flawless. I did a big Church today and my trailer was on the other side in the parking lot,..probably 150' as the crow flies. But I was on the other side and not even close to being in sight of the remote,.. and in a little corner where an addition was added,..and I thought that would be a good tryout for the remote. No issue at all,..worked great the whole job also. I was getting used to not even looking at the lights. Yesterday,.I did the Chapel House at the same property and kept looking at the lights,..but the Church is so much bigger,..it was too many steps to verify it was working, Ha,Ha....

I am gonna have a habit of,.. as soon as I get done with my soap,..I drop the DS pickup hose into a 5 gallon bucket of water,..turn on the valve and finish up rinsing while rinsing out the solenoid and the soap injector. I'd rather not have the SH sitting in the solenoid any longer than need be,..so when the last soaping is done,..under goes the water.

I think I will end up using the $12.00 valve as my main valve,..just because I'm curious about it,..and it's such a quick swap,...no big deal.

Jeff
 

Benjamin

New member
http://www.amazon.com/Thunbird-Channel-Wireless-Receiver-Momentary/dp/B00BQ842DG

Here is the board I used (Got off ebay, same controlled, different remote) and actually replaced the non interlock board that I got in the DS unit I purchased from a vendor. The original controller board that I had drove me up the wall as it had no interlock option and so I was not always sure which chem I was on. No feedback in my remotes, but I didn't want to spend much money at first either. I plan replacing the remote with a better one later, but it is really not that hard to rewire everything.

My current setup is a vendor supplied one that I have changed the controller/remote and rewired it as well to make it work better for me.

Next setup that I just need to put together now is with the same controller, but with 4 dema valves and I am going to find some water valves so I can switch the unloader bypass based on if I am washing with the high pressure soap not. High pressure soap bypass goes back into the feed line, not using high pressure soap bypass goes to tank. I do this manually already, just trying to make life easier.

1 feed low pressure soap
1 feed low pressure acid
1 feed low pressure degreaser
1 feed high pressure soap

Interlocked so only one chem works at a time.

Also I wanted some outside lights as I could not see the lights on the box in the truck. So I got these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-4pcs-3...ible-Strip-Light-Waterproof-12V-/160806860613
and some orange ones which sit outside my box and tell me what is on and what is off.

Just an idea of what I am doing, you could easily make a DS 2 channel setup for less then $200
 

814jeffw

Active member
Thanks Benjamin! You have a more involved setup than I do,..I have the need for only one soap valve. Yea,..my lights could be better,.but yesterday I wasn't even looking at them as much as the first day I used it. How much time do you get out of the DEMA 481P with the stock EPDM plunger? I suppose you're aware,..but they do make a VITON replacement plunger:

https://www.autowashonline.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=DEM%2041.2.15

Yea Jason,..that's what I will find out. But working wise it works very well. I did go extra steps to protect the receiver and transmitter properly. But,..I have another unit as a backup if nothing else. And I still can't find a remote with feedback function sold in the USA.
Here is one I'm looking at from overseas,..China I think. The transmitter gives an audible signal when connection has been made.

http://www.carymart.com/rf-wireless-remote-control-kit-1-ch-dc-5000m-long-range-waterproof-two-way-with-magnetic-sucker-antenna-p-1928.html


Jeff
 
Last edited:

Benjamin

New member
I have had more issues with the valves seizing up in the slides vs the plunger not sealing.

Another issue that I should mention that I have run into the dema valves get really hot if they are left on for a bit. Hot to the point that I would not touch it, and with steaming/pressure washing for almost 10 years my hands can take a lot. So in saying that watch how enclosed your enclosure is with the valves as heat is and could easily become an issue. I actually took the cover off my enclosure and bolted it to the enclosure so it was completely open. My unit sits in my box truck and so no rain or any weather car really get at it.

In terms of remotes cheap will get you started to figure things out, but I would look for better sooner then later. I have been too busy to look too deeply into the remote side and I don't do a lot of 2 stepping. With 2 young boys, and a third kid popping out in a few months my extra time what little I have has been to help out at home. I will get to this, its just not priority at the moment.
 

814jeffw

Active member
Benjamin,..I appreciate the heads up on the heat thing,..and the sticking slide issue. I haven't heard anyone mention that yet,.and that does seem important to know about. Thanks again!
I do have mine inside a box. I am now gonna make a few more holes for some cross ventilation,..wonder if it would be beneficial to put in one of those little fans like those inside computers? As far as the remotes,..I am also worried about longevity of these cheap ones,..but as you said,..it does get you "in" without much expense. Spares are always good,.and I have spares.

Maybe the valve getting really hot contributes to the sticking of the slides?


Not fully understanding how the slides work,..I have a question,..so pardon my ignorance,....But,..is the slide able to be lubricated in any way to help with the sticking. I'm picturing it being sealed? I am gonna look at my spare DEMA and see what I can see.

EDIT: Ok,..I just took my spare DEMA apart,..the replaceable plunger and stem assembly slides up into the the outer tube,.and does look like it could be lubricated? Wonder if there's any harm in lubricating it up with dielectric grease, rated at around 400 degrees. Maybe even anti-seize? Main thing is keeping the conductivity alive,..and I think either of these would do that,..although not sure about the anti-seize?

And I just want to agree on another point you made,..These remote units are simple enough to "wire" up and tear down that,..a little experimenting with different parts and pieces really isn't time consuming,..a few minutes at most,...especially when properly rigged to come apart. And that's how I make everything,..with maintenance and swap outs in mind.


Jeff
 
Last edited:

814jeffw

Active member
Thanks Jason,..I figure if we get enough heads working on these we can come up with a few different options for people who aren't quite sure about these and the /or the way they work. Benjamin added some great info there on the heat thing and sticking slide. I never even heard that before,..but I am just learning myself.

One thing I do know,..MANY, MANY times people will blame the the parts for being junk,..when in reality it was the installation. With anything,..but especially with electrics,..the connections and overall installation is so critical. A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.

People too often crimp wires or twist and tape,..or wire nuts,.. when soldering is so much better,..doesn't allow oxygen into the connection,..along with a liberal amount of dielectric grease.


Jeff
 

Christopher

Moderator
Maybe silicone grease, it is also good for high temps and surface cleaner swivels spinning at good speeds and hot water it holds up good.
 

Kiloman

New member
Another important issue to address is the filters you use on the end of the lines.Here is were 99 percent of your valve problems are gonna happen.You push the button of your remote of your choosing wether it be a 9.00 remote or 700.00.When you deactivate the normal closed valve the plunger drops back down an seals everything off or is supposed to_One little bitty piece of debris can cause havoc.It doesnt allow the plunger to fully seal of an the chemical keeps coming out of the line.You get mad push the button of said remote again the valve is energized an plunger pulls up for full flow of chemical.The moral of the story is have good filters so the valves dont get trash stuck in them.Its a good idea on the dema to have them mounted where you can speed over an take the screw out of it for quick trouble shooting as well.
 

Benjamin

New member
Here is a basic wiring, generic 2 channel board you can find for less then $10 on ebay, amazon, ect. Jeff you probably have no need for this, but others reading the thread might find this useful.
2step wiring.jpg

In terms of the slides on the valves, now that you have taken one apart and figured out how easy it is just to add lube to the slides once a month would not be difficult. Cleaning out the valves and lubing them up would take 5 mins a piece I figure assuming you leave enough room to get the top screw off.

Hal good point on the filter, I always use a filter, more for weight, but this is an even better reason.
 

814jeffw

Active member
Thanks Christopher,..good information on the silicone grease,.just has to be conductive,...I will check into it.

Thanks Hal,..You're right,..I can see a piece of crud getting under the plunger and allowing it to flow,.not to mention the fact that it could also indent the plunger material and start a cycle of "ruining".

I may not need a two channel remote Benjamin,..but I still appreciate the diagram,..Nice to get any information pertaining to the subject as we can. Not to mention that,..for the cost,..having a (2) channel unit would give the user a built in back up unit.
Yes,.these things are super simple,..and I am gonna use some sort of high temp,..conductive lube and keep em greased.

Jeff
 

Doug Rucker

Roundtable Host 2009
I've got two of the remotes from Russ Johnson at Southside Equipment and love them...haven't had a problem with with either one of them and they work behind and around houses buildings up 200-250 feet....basing that on how much hose I use. Cost of them is $275, but if your somebody like me that hates building and tinkering w stuff, it's a great invesment. Love the time it saves on jobs. Fixing to buy another one for another rig.
 

Doug Rucker

Roundtable Host 2009
Here is a video showing me using mine...sorry I didn't have the Go Pro adjusted right to see the sight line better.

 

Christopher

Moderator
Jeff, I meant the silicone grease is for the slides, not the electrical stuff. The silicone grease holds up good on surface cleaner swivels but I have no idea if it conducts electricity or not.
 

814jeffw

Active member
Christopher,..If I'm understanding the the slide,..it is part of the electrical connection. I think when the coil turns on the slide/plunger is activated from the inside surface of the outer sleeve?

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


Doug,..I hear what you're saying,.and buying from the vendor is fine,.,...but there really isn't any tinkering to do getting one together. These are so simple they can be put together in a matter of minutes. With HUGE savings. Even with a Dema 481P valve and a remote equivalent to what the vendor has,.you're still gonna only be at about $100.00. So with shipping considered,..that's a savings of $175.00 -$200.00,..very substantial,..especially when considering multiple units. The DIY'er is who I was talking to about assembling these,..anyone can buy one.

Knowing how to tinker and build is a good thing in the field,..really nice knowing how something works.

Jeff
 
Last edited:

Kiloman

New member
Jeff how is your remote holding up i have gobbled up several of the dema 481 p plungers i just keep spares on hand and rinse out when i can remember to but its still faster an better with the remote for sure.
 

814jeffw

Active member
Hey Hal,..the remote unit is working flawlessly,..and is a HUGE improvement over any other soap and rinse method. For anyone who uses DS'ing as an application method,..a remote unit should be standard equipment.

The first Dema plunger went in about 1.5 months. I am now using the $12.00 solenoid mentioned above,.and it's been working well so far.. I will be sticking with these I believe.

*With the $12.00 solenoid and the $18.00 remote and some connections,..makes a very cheap remote system anyone can put together.

**I did end up buying the remote from China with the "Beep" notification to let you know it's been triggered on or off. BUT,..it doesn't work any better than the $18.00,..I just wanted the confirmation beep.

Jeff
 
Top