Longer hose(s)

Guy Blackmon said:
Interesting thread......Question, the only time this might/would be a problem is for concrete cleaning....yes?
Click to expand...

No because mine are adjusted for the length of hose, I don't understand the concept. Hose is 3/8 all fitting are larger and unloader adjusted accordingly.

Gage's are built on my units, monitored daily


Text me anytime for question 480-522-5227
 
When the flow gets above 6 gpms i think the more is restricted and one would benifit fromn the 1/2 inch hose.There is a difference when the hose is changed to 1/2 inch and the hose reel is bypassed i am with Guy the concrete is where you might really need all the flow to the surface,because of the nature of the surface cleaner.On other things you cant hardly wash fast as the water output of the machine.Washing trucks with anything much over 8 and it is a waste.The machine is putting out more than workspeed would allow for.I like using 1/2 jumper hose seems to let the flow go not bottle neck it all at the pump.
 
Hose Reels and hoses for BIG flow

Great !!.. I got y'all thinking about flow-restriction again..

Some swivels flow better than others, some fittings flow better, some Quick Couplers flow better.

Chemical injectors resrtict flow horribly, unless you use the avriable-venturi versions like the ST61

If you don't plan the system for the jobsite correctly, you could be wasting half your time, and at crazy fuel cost.

If your system isn't plumbed for the BEST effective delivery of flow and pressure, you are wasting precious profitability.

My customers get to clean real fast, with whatever they buy.

This is not rocket-science here, but it is CRAZY how frequently we see goofy mistakes in plumbing systems.
..Sometimes in the hands of "seasoned verterans" of pressure washing.

This is why we specialize in custom systems, and they can't keep me out of the service department..
I want to know every flaw and failure in our industry, so when we engineer a new configuration..
it is LEADING edge.. ..in as far as the customer can afford me to go.

A recent trailer we completed has 2ea. 7gpm diesel engine systems..
The HP hose reels were ReelCraft electric rewind reels with 1/2" SuperSwivels, with 200ft 1/2" hose each.
the Water Hose Reel had a special 3/4" swivel we use, with 125 feet of 1" JackHammer hose,
and dual float valves in the Holding tank,
for the fastest fill-time from a garden-hose-spigot we've ever seen.
 
Quick question regarding 100' 3/8" hose. Which would you get... a 4000 PSI or 6000 PSI (for 20-30 bucks more)?

Okay... 2 questions ... what's the physical differences - flexibility / durability / weight? (pros / cons)
 
use R2.. "DOUBLE-wire" braided hose, for durability..
WAY more durable than 1 wire.
yes it is heavier, and less flexibe,
..but downtime is kindofa "kill-Joy" .. Eh?

DON'T buy for "price"
.. Buy for the jobsite, operator safety,
..and Long-Term-Low-Cost.
 
I know how I have my machines set up, on most of my equipment. 1" feed line to the machine, 1/2" jumper hoses to the 1/2" swivel, then only 50 ft. 3/8" r2 hose. These are purpose built trucks with a specific purpose in mind.
Everything I have has a minimum of a half inch swivel, with a half inch fill manifold.
I have other big trailers for washing parking garages and stadiums with long hoses. A higher quality hose reel flows better then some of the lower quality stuff out there. I prefer Hannay, but have a lot of Cox reels, because they are manufactured locally, so everyone seems to carry them. I have been known to wind hoses onto a reel backwards so that I can bypass the reel when the machine is running. It actually worked really well, and as a bonus, because the hose was not flexing a lot at the inlet, it seemed to last longer.
Just some of my observations.
 
810f250 said:
Great suggestions Jerry, after receiving recommendations on 1/2" hoses from Jim G and searching technical data, I decided to use 200ft sections with my 8 gpm, with two 1/2" 100' free pieces that can be added.

The first time I used a 100' section of 3/8" hose after using 1/2" I felt the reduced force difference at the gun and wand with the same nozzle , I actually thought I had an issue with my machine, but the pump head pressure was the same. So indeed I did loose flow and psi, thus reduced cleaning impact. The loss is not easily observed if you are not utilizing the maximum operating head pressure of the pump and require the higher impact, for example when house washing.

But more interestingly Jerry, when you setup your pumps for operation at 7 @ 4000 psi, what is the average spike pressure when the trigger is released?

I know we discussed that OEM are sometimes allowed ratings higher than published on pump literature.
Click to expand...


Jerry you missed the couple questions I had. sent you a PM indicator also, know that you are busy
 
What would be the effect of using 100' of 1/2" hose compared to 100' of 3/8" hose?

Would flow increase and pressure drop or would there be a noticeable difference at all?
 
The pressure drop for an 8 gpm machine through a half inch hose is 80 PSI per 100 feet. Through 3/8" hose, the pressure drop is 200 PSI.
 
That has been the standard for years. It is a lot lighter, and easier to handle. Also, the drops become more significant as the lengths of the hose increase. There are advantages both ways.
 
810f250 said:
Great suggestions Jerry ..
..But more interestingly Jerry, when you setup your pumps for operation at 7 @ 4000 psi,
what is the average spike pressure when the trigger is released?
Click to expand...

Well Nigel.. that's a good question for this thread..
on ANY machine, if the unloader is new and "adjusted to the sweet spot"..
Your "Spike pressure" should never be more than 500psi over the "working pressure" of the system AT the pump..
But if you have a big heater, with lots of pipe, and a reel with lots of hose..
..all that momentum of fluid-flow can allow an actual spike pressure of 1000psi OVER the "working pressure" of the system..
Yes, that does mean your hose ends and o-rings have been failing of because of pressure "spikes"
Put a presssure gauge on your hose-reel to watch those settings and issues.
and occasionally test at the wand !
 
Last edited:
Hose Leash is a MUST for pulling longer or larger hoses

If you want to relieve stress on your arms and shoulders when you use long lengths or larger hose..
Remember-
The wands are easier and less stress to manage when they are not dragging the hose !
Use a BeltLeash..
HoseLeash w-BeltClip n'SC21v.JPG
 
Sirocco Jerry said:
Well Nigel.. that's a good question for this thread..
on ANY machine, if the unloader is new and "adjusted to the sweet spot"..
Your "Spike pressure" should never be more than 500psi over the "working pressure" of the system AT the pump..
But if you have a big heater, with lots of pipe, and a reel with lots of hose..
..all that momentum of fluid-flow can allow an actual spike pressure of 1000psi OVER the "working pressure" of the system..
Yes, that does mean your hose ends and o-rings have been failing of because of pressure "spikes"
Put a presssure gauge on your hose-reel to watch those settings and issues.
and occasionally test at the wand !
Click to expand...

Thanks Jerry. I had 500psi over working in last test. I wish there was a method to not "slap" the system like that. (without running open guns)

If you had to guesstimate a factor for the reduction in life of a pressure washing system due to spike pressure what that might be?
 
We keep one full 200ft hose on the reel and a extra 100ft in the toolbox.I like the one piece 200ft so you don't have quick connects hooking on everything when your pulling hose around corners and other stuff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top