Chemical Injection Problem

You can get on this forum go to southside equipment and order stuff and talk with Russ and you will have no more problems.He gave the the answer just listen to him.He will help you alot but you have to do your part.Good luck with it take the gun off and just have the hose with no gun just open flow see if it draws then?
 
So Russ, your saying I should plug up the old chemical injector and add a new one? Or would I replace 469 all together? I'm going to start looking into this immediately. Thanks guys!

You cannot eliminate 469. That is proprietary thread that unloader. If you look in the picture just to the left of 469, there is a bullet shaped piece. That's the orifice that is inside 469. Some are threaded in (hex socket or screwdriver slots), others are pressed in, and have to be driven out with a punch. I'm not sure of that particular one.

Russ, couldn't you just remove the unloader and put fittings there for a plug so he can put a coupler on the injector so he could connect the injector when wanted, when not used, have the coupler on the hose and connect the hose to the plug?

Unless I am reading the diagram wrong, it looks like the injector threads into the unloader so unless the threads are metric, maybe this could work?

What about removing the unloader from the pump and installing a different unloader in a different location so you can use whatever injector you wanted, unless those fittings that go through the unloader and into the pump have special threads?

Maybe remove that unloader and run your water line to the bottom of the pump and your jumper from the top fitting of the pump to the unloader unless those are special fittings and special threads?

If the machine is being tank fed, that unloader and inlet need to go anyway. The inlet bolt that holds the unloader on has small holes in it to feed the pump. It makes life rough on it. A straight in 3/4" feed and a trapped pressure unloader on the outlet would be a needed upgrade. If it's being pressure fed from a spigot, all that has to be done is gut the injector on the outlet to eliminate that restriction, and add a QC'd injector.

Guy,A little soap in a coil isn't a bad thing. It leaves a thin coating on the pipe, which lessens rusting. Mild alkaline cleaners won't hurt the pump, coil, or anything on that machine.NEVER run acids and chlorines through the coil. It'll eat your pipes from the inside.
 
Found this online and they have it at my store. Should I go with it?
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200336159_200336159

This is the smallest size orifice at 1.8mm they have but is rated at 3500psi? It's also quick connect so would i just plug up the 469 and connect this after it or should i remove it all together? This quick connect coupler is nice that way I can switch it from the pressure washer to the hot-box with ease.

I do sell products, and rarely knock a competitor, but I don't much care for brass on a QC plug. Especially one that's built on and offers you no replacement if it wears out...which it will because it's brass.

You want zinc plated steel or stainless for the long haul. Plus, if the plug wears out, you replace IT instead of a whole injector. You'll need an injector, quick coupler, and coupler plug to make the injector assembly. Buy from me, or Bill and Paul, or Pete, or Bob...but don't get that one, 'k?
 
Thanks for posting about that one Russ.
 
I do sell products, and rarely knock a competitor, but I don't much care for brass on a QC plug. Especially one that's built on and offers you no replacement if it wears out...which it will because it's brass.

You want zinc plated steel or stainless for the long haul. Plus, if the plug wears out, you replace IT instead of a whole injector. You'll need an injector, quick coupler, and coupler plug to make the injector assembly. Buy from me, or Bill and Paul, or Pete, or Bob...but don't get that one, 'k?

Hey russ thanks for all the info. Send me a price and info on what you think i'll need. For now im going to have to go with the quick fix and try this 1.8mm and a bigger gun. Hopefully I get it to work because I have a job I have to do tomorrow.
 
Shoutout to Guy Blackmon, tried the bigger gun today and now my chemical injector is working 10x better! I don't think it was pulling like it should because now it even works with the 100ft hose! I still think i'm going to by some replacement injectors just in case though.

Do you guys think the house wash works better when applied with hot water or would I just be wasting VALUABLE time? I would have to then set up my water heater and run the generator, have the extra cord, spend the extra $$$ in diesel. If it cleans better and faster I would not mind because thats what its there for but I usually just use it for flat surfaces.

What do you guys think would it be worth it or would it be better to just stick with the cold water for the houses?

This is saving me a bunch of valuable time so I appreciate the advise.
 
Shoutout to Guy Blackmon, tried the bigger gun today and now my chemical injector is working 10x better! I don't think it was pulling like it should because now it even works with the 100ft hose! I still think i'm going to by some replacement injectors just in case though.

Do you guys think the house wash works better when applied with hot water or would I just be wasting VALUABLE time? I would have to then set up my water heater and run the generator, have the extra cord, spend the extra $$$ in diesel. If it cleans better and faster I would not mind because thats what its there for but I usually just use it for flat surfaces.

What do you guys think would it be worth it or would it be better to just stick with the cold water for the houses?

This is saving me a bunch of valuable time so I appreciate the advise.
You don't need hot water for house washes. Heating up a chemical slightly could help it be more effective in some cases but I would never use it on vinyl. Don't want to melt it. I don't have hot water and I get by just fine for residential work. It would be nice to have though, for certain situations. I don't know if your driveways in Texas get its bad as the ones here in Florida, covered with black mold, but it would be nice to have hot water to clean some of those. Also, if you have to clean up to anyone oil spills.


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Ninty percent of the time I don't use heat for a housewash. When I do it's just to slightly warm the wash mix for a cold day if I'm fighting really green algae to give the love a little boost.

Pat Norman 663-316-7685
 
Generally you want to stay away from Hot Water during house washing, you can damage the siding. You can get away with a warm wash, if its really dirty and the cold water isn't doing the job.
 
Shoutout to Guy Blackmon, tried the bigger gun today and now my chemical injector is working 10x better! I don't think it was pulling like it should because now it even works with the 100ft hose! I still think i'm going to by some replacement injectors just in case though.

Do you guys think the house wash works better when applied with hot water or would I just be wasting VALUABLE time? I would have to then set up my water heater and run the generator, have the extra cord, spend the extra $$$ in diesel. If it cleans better and faster I would not mind because thats what its there for but I usually just use it for flat surfaces.

What do you guys think would it be worth it or would it be better to just stick with the cold water for the houses?

This is saving me a bunch of valuable time so I appreciate the advise.


I'm On A Roll!!!!!
 
Okay, now I has a chemical injection problem. Ever since I linked the two of my pressure washers together to get 8 GPM, I have not been able to get it to draw chemical. If I shut off one of the pressure washers and just use 4 GPM, it draws chemical just fine. Do I just need to get a new injector that designed for 8 G
 
Josh what tip are you using to draw chemical with, you might need to use a larger orifice tip.

I'm using a number 50 orifice. I've even tried it with the former, and still no luck.

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