flow valve setup

MARK W.

MARK W.

Member
Now that I got my flow problems taking care of I need to set up a flow valve of some sort. I dont really know how to set one up. I did a search and read that someone put one right on there tank. I 'm not sure on how it all works. My water supply goes through my hose reel to a hose that is on the walls of my truck to my tank. I guess I need to see what one looks like to understand how it works. I had an over flow yesterday and don't want to have it happen again.
 
There are two types of valves that you can use. One has a float on a threaded rod, just like the old toilet tank valves used to. When the water gets to the top of the tank, the float raises the lever and shuts off the flow valve.

The other type has no moving parts, and is the type I went with. It is called a Hudson float valve, and you can get them at espec for $30.00. The reason you don't want the float type valve is that you will have this lever arm bouncing up and down all day long as you drive around...more likely to break.

Either way, this is how I set mine up. I drilled a hole in the top of the tank just large enough to accomodate a short piece of 3/4" PVC pipe, about 2" long. I stuck this pipe through the hole, and on the end inside the tank I glued a male garden hose fitting. That's the end the hudson float valve screws onto. I made this fitting flush with the inside top of the tank. On the end of the pipe sticking out of the tank, I glued a female garden hose fitting. This is where the hose from the hose reel screws onto. Now, when the tank gets full, the water shuts off!

I know what you mean about overflows, it's a pain! I had a hard time trying to guess when my tank would overflow, or when I'd run out of water. Now no worries...I just have a 2" dump valve on the tank and can drain it in a couple minutes when its time to head home.
 
Last edited:
Any good hardware store will have float valves available. If you need one real bad I can send you one for $40 plus tax and shipping.
 
Mr. Williamson, is there anyway you can post a picture of the setup? I can almost picture it in my head but don't want to drill a hole in my tank with out knowing exactly how it's done.
Thanks,
M. Williamson.
 
the hudson valve is better then the float valve[toilit tank type] for one reason.
You sometimes park on a hill or on an angle.
The water is pulled to one side, and it might be the wrong side, and you get overflow.
I know, ive got the float valve.
If your going to hook up a valve, also install a hose barb at the same time. This will/can be used to route your retern line from your unloader to the large tank. Your pump can run in bypass all day without over heating.
p.s. dont route your return line to the main tank if you use UPSTREAM. It will fill your tank with upstream chem. You can install a gated Y or T to switch back.
im doing this this week myself.
e-spec has the hudson valves.
 
Here is one.
 

Attachments

  • c03-00631.gif
    c03-00631.gif
    2.3 KB · Views: 208
Here is a picture But you have to become a member of my Yahoo page to view it.

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/grou...+a+tank+switcher.jpg&.src=gr&.view=t&.hires=t

vwp
 
I did what I had to do to get the picture but it need not come up.
 
At the bottom of all of my posts there are two different join messages the bottom one is the Yahoo one just click on that link to join.

or CLICK HERE!
Join Yahoo Group Hotwaterwizard
 
Last edited:
Here's the valve w/o the float. This model comes in 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1".
 

Attachments

  • float.jpg
    float.jpg
    16.8 KB · Views: 137
Last edited:
Mike, Thanks for the sketch, I think I'll go with the Hudson.
Everyone says the float valve might not work if the truck is parked on a hill or driveway. That's one less thing I have to worry about. I will give it a try this weekend.

Thanks everyone for your help!!
 
Regarding the Hudson valve, Seems to me that I read a post a while back and the authors Hudson valve stuck open.

This of course caused over filling.

I realize the valve has no external moving parts but surely something moves on the inside. Right?

Anyway why not just run an over flow pipe form the top or side of the tank and route through the floor? No worries.

Install a ball valve on the over flow pipe you close when driving.

If you install another pipe at the bottom and tee into the over flow it would allow for quick draining of the tank.
 
Last edited:
I have been thru way to many hudson valves. They are nice in design, but for some reason, they keep failing me. I have been told to clean them out once in a while and they still go bad.
The inside has a little rubber diaphram (sp) that shuts off the water. If mine worked, it would be less prone to vibration and hills, but these things dislike me.
 
MrAlan:

Thanks for the tip...I'll keep that in mind if/when my valve fails.

It is never fun to look over at your trailer and see water cascading out the side or rear doors! I think I will take beyoung's advice and install an overflow, so if something like that does happen, it will drain through the floor of the trailer rather than into the trailer.
 
I do not currently use anything. I have an open trailer, so all water will hit the ground, rather than flood an enclosed set up. I keep a close eye on it, and adjust as needed, so I do not flood the neighborhood.
I was working in a back yard once and that is the first time the hudson failed. I had an o ring on my wand go bad, so I went out front and found my tank looking like a volkwagen bug. I am not sure how big it can get before it blows, but I can say that it was pretty close.
 
Well, with supply hose pressure, I had a very swelled tank. Please do not underestimate the power of water. It has to go somewhere, and your tank is plastic. While it may seem pretty strong, it can and will expand when pushed over the line.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top