Whip hose arrangement
- Thread starter beyoungsr
- Start date
Dave Olson
Workin North of 60
Hi beyoungsr,
Here is a picture of how we have ours set up.
Going from left to right. 1/4" Stainless quick coupler socket, 3/8" stainless ballvalve. 18" or so whip (insulated to protect from heat). 3/8" swivel then the hose.
Having the swivel away from the gun allows it to move (twist) while you are pulling on the gun/whip end.
Dave Olson
Here is a picture of how we have ours set up.
Going from left to right. 1/4" Stainless quick coupler socket, 3/8" stainless ballvalve. 18" or so whip (insulated to protect from heat). 3/8" swivel then the hose.
Having the swivel away from the gun allows it to move (twist) while you are pulling on the gun/whip end.
Dave Olson
Dave Olson,
I called Valley and the said they dont carry that ball valve in all s.s.. They say the one they sell is a zinc plated steel body with a chrome ball and aluminum handle. Their part # is BV3/8FF
There catolog reflects the above. Salesman said it is identical to Especs valve.
Is there a chance you ordered it from someone else? Would I get so lucky that you might have the part number and company name?
If by chance this is the valve you are using do you have any problems with corrosion??
Appreciate any input.
I called Valley and the said they dont carry that ball valve in all s.s.. They say the one they sell is a zinc plated steel body with a chrome ball and aluminum handle. Their part # is BV3/8FF
There catolog reflects the above. Salesman said it is identical to Especs valve.
Is there a chance you ordered it from someone else? Would I get so lucky that you might have the part number and company name?
If by chance this is the valve you are using do you have any problems with corrosion??
Appreciate any input.
Dave Olson
Workin North of 60
beyoungsr,
I was wrong about being stainless. The valve that the folks at Valley told you about is the valve that is shown in my picture.
Sorry for the confusion.
Walter,
Why? I don't really think it makes any difference to the flow of water. We have always done it this way. Another reason is we use Stainless sockets rather than brass on our guns. They are more expensive but they last much, much longer so in the long run we have fewer problems in this area. We change wand, tips, hose end sprayers a lot with our guns.
When we put hose sections together we use threaded fittings. If we need to connect two hoses together on a job site, we tape the quick disconnects so pulling them on the ground or over debris will not disconnect them.
Dave Olson
I was wrong about being stainless. The valve that the folks at Valley told you about is the valve that is shown in my picture.
Sorry for the confusion.
Walter,
Why? I don't really think it makes any difference to the flow of water. We have always done it this way. Another reason is we use Stainless sockets rather than brass on our guns. They are more expensive but they last much, much longer so in the long run we have fewer problems in this area. We change wand, tips, hose end sprayers a lot with our guns.
When we put hose sections together we use threaded fittings. If we need to connect two hoses together on a job site, we tape the quick disconnects so pulling them on the ground or over debris will not disconnect them.
Dave Olson
Thanks R.J., Bill 3752, Walter, Dave
I appreciate the input. I am for anything that makes the job easier!
Dave no problem on that ball valve. I have not found anyone that sells one like it in all stainless. Wish I had. You know taping the the hoses with duct tape after coupling sounds good. Dah! Why didn't I think of that!
I appreciate the input. I am for anything that makes the job easier!
Dave no problem on that ball valve. I have not found anyone that sells one like it in all stainless. Wish I had. You know taping the the hoses with duct tape after coupling sounds good. Dah! Why didn't I think of that!
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