Water Tank Setup

scottwash said:
[QUOTE=David O'Connell Jr;148196]direct or belt wont matter. double feed it and no worries. use the flex line that is clear with the white stripe. Heat the lines with a torch and push over the barbs, the hoses will cool down to the shape of the barb. Use a float valve in the tank for fills.[/QUDa



Dave how would you double feed it? 2 lines going to 1 inlet?
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Most pumps have 2 "inlets" look at yours. It should be on the opposite side of each other, they all run better that way.
 
Nice setups on those "leg tanks" and everything. The pics are a big help, too.
Thanks for the tip on heating the end of the hose to get a good fit on the barbed connectors.
It's a rare day when I don't learn something new from reading this forum. :cool:
 
David O'Connell Jr said:
Most pumps have 2 "inlets" look at yours. It should be on the opposite side of each other, they all run better that way.
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Other side of pump is where the over heat plug is. So I can take it out and hook up water to it.
Thanks David
 
my PW has an unloader that has no bypass line.but it has a thermo spring that opens when the pump heats up to release the hot water in bypass mode. (5gpm beltdrive) need to buy a new unloader to be able to bypass it.
 
If it were a thermal relief valve it should be installed on the inlet side of the pump. That plug-barb on the far side of the pump is an easy start valve, when the high pressure side of the pump is not under load it allows the pressure to bleed off(to make it easier to start). It should only be letting water out at start up then the ball inside seats and no water should be coming out. The unloader that is on that machine is bypassing the water directly form the inlet to the outlet in this case, so all the extra line is doing is letting the little bit of water that is coming out of that barb back to the tank at start up.

That is one of the best float tank setups I have seen though, very impressive.
 
Hey Paul, Thanks.
The line flows water into the tank constantly when the motor is running, and the wand trigger is not pulled. It flows pretty strong actually. This tank has made a HUGE difference in the performance of the washer. When I connected the washer to an outside water tap it would flow very slowly, suck air and cavitation was regular. Now with the float tank, I get alot of flow through the 200ft hose without a wand connected. With the tank the water shoots out approx. 10-15ft. When connected to a water tap, I was lucky to have it shoot 1-2ft. I have a 250gal. tote that will be set up he same, except the float valve will be for filling the tank only.

Chris
 
David O'Connell Jr said:
I would need to see a picture of the pump to really give advice on the hook up
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It is a thermal relief valve. Landa. (right above the red strap) Right now I run off a hose off house can it be use doing it that way using 2 lines. or do I have to go to tank ?
 

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One 1" line, preferably reinforced with wire or a PVC coil in it. Like David said, heat it up and slide it over the barbs. I would also put a shut off and filter at the tank. Floats are the way to go, we use Hudson.
 
1 3/4" line off the house can supply that pump up to 150' on most homes. I think David was just refering to tank set ups.


scottwash said:
It is a thermal relief valve. Landa. (right above the red strap) Right now I run off a hose off house can it be use doing it that way using 2 lines. or do I have to go to tank ?
Click to expand...
 
Tim, I am running a piece of 5/8 hose I had laying around to feed the PW from the tank. will 1" line make that big of a difference? My unit only has a 3.5gm pump. I will be rearranging my trailer and re plumbing everything, should this be on my list of items to change. Right now, I get more water to the unit than I did running directly off the homes water tap. Thanks

Chris
 

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I've never seen so much intrest in a 13 hp PC. Teach a man to fish and he'll have his boat in your honey hole! Most 13 hp aren't double fed. No need and only one inlet. Hook up the house supply line(usually atleast 5 gpm) It does have an unloader, better I would upgrade that and bypass from unloader outlet back to tank with 1/2 chem hose. I wouldn't go through all the extra costs for a 4gpm unit, but hey everyone has to start somewhere. By the way the name UnderPressure is protected! BY ME!
 
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