Unloader question

John,
I am getting ready to switch mine over to run this way also. It is drawing new water constantly, so there should be no chance of overheating.
Point of mention and you probably have this covered, but make sure that you have enough water in the tank so that when it sloshes around, you do not get air in the system.
 
John I run mine in by-pass hours at a time, no problems.

Just don't run chemicals though it that way or your water will be contiminated.
 
The advantage is that you don't have to worry about the pump overheating when a customer stops you to talk. You don't need to run back to the machine to turn it off when you need to do something like brush a truck or scrape a hood. And employees can't over heat the pump when they start hitting on that hot sweet young thing that just walked by. Jon needs it because it takes him so long to move form one place to another.

Scott Stone
 
Could someone clarify exactly how this bypass process is done?
 
They say a picture is worth a tousand words. How am I doing?
 

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Two questions:

First, what size tank would you use, and would it have a float valve on it so you don't overflow the tank?

Second, I realize that pressure factors into how hot water can get, but are you heating the pump any more running without bypass than you are running regular hot water, especially on some machines that I see will go well over 212 degrees? Does running hot water lower pump life, or is the heat generated by the pump running without a bypass a lot higher than the hot water generated by the heater?
 
I think what John is wondering if he runs his unit in bypass will it keep it from freezing. If he has a cold water unit it should be alright. But if he has a hot water unit the coil could freeze up since you don't have water flowing through it. If that is the case you would be better off by disconnecting your gun and just stick the end of your hose in the tank and let your unit run at a slow speed to keep water from freezing.

In regards to bypass, when you let go of your triger your unloader will decrease the pressure and allow a small amount of water to circulate in the pump head. Most unloaders have a hose running to the inlet side of the pump. To run it through a bigger tank you would replace that hose.
 
That is the first mod we do on all new machines, bypass to the factory water tank. It is only about 2-3 gallons but that is a huge difference compared to 8-12 ounces.
Is there a reason manufacturers don't design in this manner? Oh ya they sell replacement parts.
 
Thanks all for the help. No problems encountered, though next time a new customer asks me to clean something sight unseen, I'll insist on seeing it first!

The job was the inside of a cinder block smokehouse at a local meat packing plant! 4' x 12', sides, doors, ceiling and the metal grating on the floor. Used hot water, no chem, and the clouds of steam were full of soot. I looked like Al Jolson when I was done. lol 2 hours, $150. I know, I should have charged more, but I didn't realize the "special" circumstances involved. Ah well...At least there will be more work from them down the road - building exterior, trucks.

Dakota, I hadn't thought about the coils, but of course you are right - and I'll do that next (??) time.
 
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So basically, if a machine has the bypass running back into the intake side of the pump, you just disconnect it and extend the hose to run back into your supply tank? How long can you run this without opening the gun? Do you increase the hose diameter of the bypass hose?
 
Almost every machine comes from the factory with the bypass going back into the head. Take the barb off of the head and plug that hole. Put the barb in the tank and run the new hose to the tank. Too easy. The water from the burner never touches the bypass water because the unloader is nothing but an automatic 3-way valve. The water either goes out of the bypass or out of the high pressure outlet of the unloader. All of this is done before the water even goes into the heating coils. The heater has nothing to do with the water in the pump getting hot. Friction of the water going thru the hose in a small loop heats the water up in the pump. When you pull the trigger the water goes out of the hose to the heater and fresh water goes into the pump cooling it down. When the bypass is in the tank the water in the tank acts as a buffer for the pump because the water in the tank has a chance to cool before it goes back to the pump.
 
Dakota Clean said:
I think what John is wondering if he runs his unit in bypass will it keep it from freezing. If he has a cold water unit it should be alright. But if he has a hot water unit the coil could freeze up since you don't have water flowing through it. If that is the case you would be better off by disconnecting your gun and just stick the end of your hose in the tank and let your unit run at a slow speed to keep water from freezing.

In regards to bypass, when you let go of your triger your unloader will decrease the pressure and allow a small amount of water to circulate in the pump head. Most unloaders have a hose running to the inlet side of the pump. To run it through a bigger tank you would replace that hose.
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This method will work fine. if you have a thermostat on the machine and set it for about 50 to 75 degrees it won't hurt the pump. The seals in the pump can take up to 95 degrees but if it is higher than that you can dammage the pump. You can also install a thermostat in the water tank that will regulate the heater at a certain temp just put it in ceres with your burner switch. Another idea is to install a big fish tank heater in the tank and run it off of a Generator or an Inverter.
 
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My reference to the coil was not intended to suggest heating the water but to circulate water through the entire unit as to keep it from freezing, which is what I believe John was trying to accomplish.
 
John,
I think that you are mistaken. Most pumps are rated at 140 degrees. That means that they can handle water up to 140 degreees, without damage. If it is only 95 degrees, I ned to start running my water through an ice chest in the summer. We get that out of the tap quite often.

Scott Stone
 
So what you're saying is that the water goes from the pump to the coils and then out to the want/surface cleaner, not the other way round? Not being that familliar yet with my machine, or any other hot water unit for that matter, I was assuming it went through the coils and then to the pump. Makes more sense the other way though.

What size tank would you suggest for a bypass tank, and would that have a float valve on it?

Thanks!
 
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