Spinner rebuild

oneness

oneness

Member
I got my rebuild kit today, and will be installing it tomorrow. I got the spinner out of the surface cleaner (and pain in the rear in itself) this evening, and will start in the morning on rebuilding it.

Anything I need to be aware of before I begin? How difficult is this thing to get apart and back together? The blueprint that comes with the kit is just a CAD drawing of the spinner...no instructions as to getting it apart, or back together.

Thanks!
 
Oneness,
What brand of rotary union is it?

Who did you purchase from?

Have you ever adjusted the one you have? I threw two away before I was tought how to adjust them. This only works with the expensive unions.

I can help you a little.

Make sure you get the nozzles back at the correct angles per the manufactures spec.

Check and make sure the bars are not bent. Being out of balance destroys the rotary union.

Install bars with nozzles attached onto the rotary union.

You might want to replace the nozzles if they have been on for a good while

In your garage or work shop horizontaly drive a nail partialy into a wall stud.

Make sure the nail is level. Now take a level and draw a straight level horizontal line on the wall below the nail.

Slide the whole unit onto the nail. The nail should be long enough that the union does not touch the wall.

Lightly press down on the bar assembly and release.

The line shows you how far you are off.

Take a rat tail file or grinder and lighly remove surface from the needed bar. Recheck for level. Repeat until bar is level. Assembly is now balanced.

It is really easy to do. Also works for mowwer blades Others may have better methods.

Sorry for the length.
 
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Dang, meant to mention that....It is the Deublin swivel, from a 24" steel eagle (Don't imagine it matters which cleaner it is from....).

The rebuild kit is for the spinner, not the surface cleaner. I just installed new bars on it, but the shaft has a good bit of movement side to side, and when running wobbles quite a bit. I'm more concerned with being able to get the swivel apart and back together properly.

thanks!
 
Oneness,

I can't help you with that brand.

I realized you are rebuilding the union.

Balance is exremly important. Don't forget the nozzle angle.

Hopefully other will chime in. Did the kit inclued new bearings?

Did you try their web site

Lets guess www.dueblin.com
 
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There are a few things to be careful with The ceramic must be lined up perfectly. See the two pins in the swivel? the brass has to line up with the pins or you will break the ceramic peice.
 
All Deublin Unions can be returned to the factory for rebuilding. Unions are refurbished to an as new condition and carry a new union warranty to ensure satisfactory performance.

Deublin's Customer Service Department will respond to your repair / Inspection request quickly.

A repair authorization number and shipping instructions will be e-mailed to you.

Follow the link to complete the Repair / Inspection form.

Deublin Link
 

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Thanks, Wiz.

Haven't gotten it rebuilt yet, not sure if it needs it yet. I found the problem with the shaft being loose. Of course, not knowing how this thing was put together didn't help. As I'm sure you're aware, the rotary union is held tight in a black metal housing that is bolted to the surface cleaner. There are three allen screws that hold it tight, and when I bent the arms, the few seconds of running it before I shut it down had worked it loose from those screws. The shaft itself has no play in the union, and the bearings seem to turn well. It doesn't spin as freely as, say, a shaft in an electric motor, but once it was all back together it spun freely by hand with the weight of the manifold and arms to keep it going. I balanced the arms on the manifold and put everything back together, and it ran well with no real vibration.

However, when I ran it the next day, it wasn't cleaning as well as it did prior to damaging the arms. I found myself having to go terribly slow and go over areas 2-3 times to get rid of the swirl marks, even on fairly clean concrete. I'm also only pulling 2500 psi with it, where I used to run 3000.

It was suggested on another board that the nozzles were worn, and that I was losing PSI because of that. That wouldn't explain the sudden drop in pressure, except that in replacing the arms, I found that one nozzle was plugged. So, if the nozzles were worn but one was plugged, running through two nozzles would give me higher PSI than I would get with three. Now that all three are clear, that would explain the drop in pressure. I plan to replace all three this weekend and see if that changes anything. If not, then I have to assume that the bearings are not spinning as freely as they should, and the cleaner is running slower than normal.

The arms are correctly adjusted, and spinning in the right direction (clockwise looking at it from the bottom). The nozzles are correctly aligned with the arms (spray pattern 90 degrees perpendicular to the arms)

Any suggestions beyond what I've mentioned here are appreciated!
 
Oneness,
I used to have problems with nozzles plugging up. I installed an inline filter and this seems to have taken care of the problem.

How is the surface cleaner running now?
 
one suggestion for you guy's that use the in-line filter's or are haveing problem's with clogging.
After you get to the job, run your unit with the heater on and a empty line for a full min. before hooking up your equipment.
The jarring of the unit as you go down the road will loosen up the junk. Flushing it before hooking up will save you a lot of time from takeing the filter apart to clean the little round screen.
I wish they made a bigger in-line pressure filter.
 
I installed my filter with a european twist lock on the infeed and a stainless plug on the outfeed end.

If the filter were to plug up on a job, I can switch it out with a new one quickly.

The stainless plug also allows me to attache the pluggged filter to my wand and back flush it. This cleans it immediatly.

I also let the hot water run through an open gun before starting a job.

I have not experianced any filters plugging since switching hose fittings to stainless steel. All others fittings on my equipment are either brass or s.s.

No galvenized, black pipe or zinc plated used. Too much corrosion with these.
 
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