Replacing Muffler Question

mike barrett said:
Try taking the studs out while the engine is hot. I use either a stud removal tool or tighten two nuts on the stud and wrench them out. Good luck. If they break off drill and easy out.
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Yea that's what I was thinking too Mike, unfortunately units are disconnected from tank, trailer rebuild in progress. Soaked down in PB Blaster now.

There's just no easy way to do this, I hope there will be enough threads to try jam nutting it.......Studs are Baaaaaadddddd.
 
Guy, Heat is going to be your best friend. Dont just heat the stud heat around the stud as heat makes metal expand. If you heat the stud it will make it larger and will not move. Good luck.
 
Update........Goes without saying, heat is your best Friend in this situation, that and liberal doses of PB Blaster before hand.

I soaked studs down for a couple of days (I was in no hurry) quick sprays every few hours for 2 days. Sawed mufflers off so I could get to bolts and studs better.

Heating from back to front works much better IMO, being careful not to heat the stud at nut. Then carefully heat the outer part of nut. Repeat heating if nut won't move, over torquing will shear the exhaust stud.....which you don't want to do.

1 stud came out fairly easy, soaking others now. Will be "Jam Nutting" existing studs for removal again with the use of the torch.......Wish Me Luck.

Hope this helps.....Stay tunes for final results.

Muffler Removal 001resz.jpg
 
Guy Blackmon said:
Update........Goes without saying, heat is your best Friend in this situation, that and liberal doses of PB Blaster before hand.

I soaked studs down for a couple of days (I was in no hurry) quick sprays every few hours for 2 days. Sawed mufflers off so I could get to bolts and studs better.

Heating from back to front works much better IMO, being careful not to heat the stud at nut. Then carefully heat the outer part of nut. Repeat heating if nut won't move, over torquing will shear the exhaust stud.....which you don't want to do.

1 stud came out fairly easy, soaking others now. Will be "Jam Nutting" existing studs for removal again with the use of the torch.......Wish Me Luck.

Hope this helps.....Stay tunes for final results.

View attachment 29105
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thanks for the update guy!
 
PW Gods must be smiling on this ole boy tonight.....Lol!

Studs came out with no problems......Jam Nutted studs, lightly heated cylinder head behind & around stud. Before trying to remove, I tapped the end of the stud with a hammer, light to medium force only.....studs came right out.

When I put new studs back in I'm going to wrap the stud threads that go into cylinder head with Teflon tape. This is an old mechanic trick I learned working on car exhaust manifolds.

As usual I stressed over nothing......Take your time and don't "Gorilla" it.

Hope this helps.

Muffler Removal 026resz.jpgMuffler Removal 035resz.jpg
 
Nice job Guy! Thanks for sharing your process. Patience and preparation was key. It worked, so everything you did was correct. Had you not did all you did... Let's just say there may have been a few more symbols (@#$%@#%$) in your replies!
 
Guy Blackmon said:
PW Gods must be smiling on this ole boy tonight.....Lol!

Studs came out with no problems......Jam Nutted studs, lightly heated cylinder head behind & around stud. Before trying to remove, I tapped the end of the stud with a hammer, light to medium force only.....studs came right out.

When I put new studs back in I'm going to wrap the stud threads that go into cylinder head with Teflon tape. This is an old mechanic trick I learned working on car exhaust manifolds.

As usual I stressed over nothing......Take your time and don't "Gorilla" it.

Hope this helps.

View attachment 29106View attachment 29107
Click to expand...

What about stainless? I ended up just using bolts after the studs went. I was thinking about stainless, but went with the high-grade allen bolts. I have my first Hondas, the muffler they came with had lots of beefy big brackets - I think they have really addressed the stud issue.
 
tomtucson said:
What about stainless? I ended up just using bolts after the studs went. I was thinking about stainless, but went with the high-grade allen bolts. I have my first Hondas, the muffler they came with had lots of beefy big brackets - I think they have really addressed the stud issue.
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stainless bolts with anti seize? or would the vibration loosen the bolts?
 
Another option would be to use a stainless bolt that is longer. Thread a stainless nut all the way down to the head. Then install the bolt but do not over tighten it. Hold the head of the bolt and tighten the nut down on the muffler. This way the bolt acts as a stud with a nut on it and can be removed easier.
 
socalkol said:
stainless bolts with anti seize? or would the vibration loosen the bolts?
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I don't think you would need anti-seize with stainless.I have been replacing bolts with stainless in high heat/rust areas and it's working great.
 
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