Question about burner insulation.

mattspws

Member
I got a quick question about a burner on a pressure pro skid.

What's a fair price to re-insulate one of these ? It's a horizontal and also needs the baffle replaced and the metal ring that's tacked to the coil on the burner end replaced.

Needless to say I have not been very happy with this machine. The frame and burner have been nothing but problem after problem. I've been eyeballing the hydro-tech machines, I just need to buy a little more time to afford a new one. Any input would be much appreciated.

-Matt
 

Vince Wood

New member
You could always order new insulation from Russ or Bob and take it to a welder if you have anything that needs welding. Thats what I did with mine.

All the repair shops in my area are nothing but a bunch of rip offs.
 

BlueBliss

New member
I agree with Vince... Most companies that "specialize" in pressure washers or even just small engine repairs in my area really over charge, and their turn around time typically sucks! The insulation, you can likely do yourself and ought to try if not just to learn how and that you can. Learning a little welding may pay some big dividends as well, but knowing a reliable welder is a great business card to have!
 

Russ Johnson

Equipment Expert
Insulation is $3.00 per square foot. You need about 9.5 sq ft to wrap the coil, plus 2 - 3 sq ft pieces if you plan on replacing the end caps. A steel liner is about $30.00 , a baffle maybe $6.00 or so. To remove a coil, weld a liner and baffle in, rewrap it and put it back in, about 2.5 hours. I get $60.00 / hr, so $150.00 for labor.

When you get ready to move on that Hydro Tek, let me know.
 

mattspws

Member
Vince and Blue Bliss, I have a love hate relationship with the pressure washing repair shops around here to. All the small engine maintenance I do myself. I do have an awesome small engine guy if I need him, and he is fair. Plus he takes care of me real quick, but all he will work on is engines. I'm sure this is a job I could do myself but I don't have access to a welder and it's just one of those things I really don't want to mess with.

So about $350.00 should be more than fair ?

Russ I have already been lurking around your site day dreaming. I just got a few things to work out before I make the move.

Thanks
 

Russ Spence

Commercial Pressure Wash Expert and PWI Admin
Vince and Blue Bliss, I have a love hate relationship with the pressure washing repair shops around here to. All the small engine maintenance I do myself. I do have an awesome small engine guy if I need him, and he is fair. Plus he takes care of me real quick, but all he will work on is engines. I'm sure this is a job I could do myself but I don't have access to a welder and it's just one of those things I really don't want to mess with.

So about $350.00 should be more than fair ?

Russ I have already been lurking around your site day dreaming. I just got a few things to work out before I make the move.

Thanks
Matt you should call Russ, he has great lease plans as well.
 

Russ Johnson

Equipment Expert
I don't have access to a welder

I prefer a torch for coil welding, especially where sheet metal is involved. Welders basically cut a trench into the metal, then fill it back in. If the trench happens to break through the pipe, you'll end up with a leak. With a torch, you melt the metal without disturbing it, then melt other metal into the existing pool.
 

Sirocco Jerry

Active member
I totally agree Russ..
And as insurance, we only weld onto existing welds, when we replace coil baffles,
and we double-up the metal thickness..
Coils are made to last the typical 6 to 8 years..
In our systems, we use double-thick XHD baffles..
since we aim for (and achieve), 12 to 14 year lifespan on our coils.

Bean-counters should NOT be allowed to "engineer systems". Eh?
buy you next system from a "tech".

..and on that note..
When you buy a pressure washer..
ASK the guy WHAT makes it "better"..
If he canNOT explain HOW (in detail) it is different,
it is NOT, and you have NO "reason" to purchase that machine.

Buy for "REASONS" not just price.
or you'll end up down, in front of your best customer,
and awfully whiney.
 

Chris Tharpe

New member
Also remember depending on what PP machine your fixing. The 5.5 coils are 3 piece pieces of Shit, and require a foam block that goes around the coil. I liked the idea of it as the coil was insulated extremely well but the coil was extremely short and poorly designed. If you dealing with an 8gpm skid then the coil was designed differently and it is possible to re-wrap it and stuff the ends with insulation and move on. Take a close look at the design on the burner and make sure its not the design I am refering to on the 5.5 machines (I think this has since changed to a better design)

Another good piece of advice is to dump that PP POS as soon as you can. I have a couple of them and there is always problems its a nightly ritual
 

Sirocco Jerry

Active member
Chris gets it ! ..
the truest path to strength, is the ellimination of weakness !!

Chris.. call me when you get a chance..
I'd like your opinion on a bloggers-special I want to have on big PW's
 

mattspws

Member
Also remember depending on what PP machine your fixing. The 5.5 coils are 3 piece pieces of Shit, and require a foam block that goes around the coil. I liked the idea of it as the coil was insulated extremely well but the coil was extremely short and poorly designed. If you dealing with an 8gpm skid then the coil was designed differently and it is possible to re-wrap it and stuff the ends with insulation and move on. Take a close look at the design on the burner and make sure its not the design I am refering to on the 5.5 machines (I think this has since changed to a better design)

Another good piece of advice is to dump that PP POS as soon as you can. I have a couple of them and there is always problems its a nightly ritual


Yes it is a POS, it's one of the older tall ones, not the short low profile newer one. All the problems with the burner started after I found the cheap undersized screws that hold the end plate on sheared off, burner was just hanging there end plate and all by the wires. I guess I hit to big of a bump in the road for the poor thing.

Now the frame is breaking on the part that holds the burner up. Just as it leaves the mounting plate. It's sheared off twice now, I had a local muffler guy beef it up this time, I'll bet it starts cracking on the back side next.

I only need a few more months out of it. If the burner keeps giving problems after this rebuild. I'll cut it off and it should make a decent cold water machine. Considering the only this left on it PP would be the gas tanks and what's left of the frame.
 

Sirocco Jerry

Active member
wimpy sheet-metal screws in the base of your heater..

Another good point Matt !..
We inspect every heater that comes in to our service center for these hardware isues..
REPLACE the wimpy sheet-metal screws in the base of your heater..
we use "self-drilling" #14 STAINLESS STEEL screws..
at least 6 of them, around the perimeter..
and we still add an "earthquake-brackett holding the TOP of the heater,
to the frame of the system.. with grade-8 bolts !
That way, when that 21 yerar-old girl text-messaging and driving with her elbows
crashes into the back of your rig, . :yikes:
the heater doesn't fall back into her windshield,
causing her daddy to sue you.
 

Russ Spence

Commercial Pressure Wash Expert and PWI Admin
Another good point Matt !..
We inspect every heater that comes in to our service center for these hardware isues..
REPLACE the wimpy sheet-metal screws in the base of your heater..
we use "self-drilling" #14 STAINLESS STEEL screws..
at least 6 of them, around the perimeter..
and we still add an "earthquake-brackett holding the TOP of the heater,
to the frame of the system.. with grade-8 bolts !
That way, when that 21 yerar-old girl text-messaging and driving with her elbows
crashes into the back of your rig, . :yikes:
the heater doesn't fall back into her windshield,
causing her daddy to sue you.

Seriously, thats gooood advice!
 
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