Just some thoughts

Michael

New member
There are no hard and fast rules about pressure washers. There are however some guidelines that people often overlook.

Simply put in almost every case: flow is of much more value than pressure. Pressure is the easy part of the equation.

There is no legitimate value to be derived from using "Cleaning Units" to determine the purchase of one unit versus another.

Pressure is equivalent to speed; therefore which do you want to catch thrown at your head at 5 MPH (8kph)? A baseball or a bowling ball? Simple proof on the value of flow; I can provide the physics if you want.

The largest pressure washer pump manufacturer in the world is Interpump/General Pump, other pumps used by professionals (in no particular order) are Cat, A/R, Comet, Admiral, Giant, Udor, Hypro, Hawk, Bertolini/Legacy and I am sure there are a few really small ones that I did not mention. Buying pumps from any of these manufacturers does not guarantee performance; General Motors made the Chevette as well as the Corvette and the Cadillac. Each has a market.

A big box retailer only wants your money. Once is fine. They do not have the expertise, support or time to provide proper training in the safe use and operation of your purchase. There is not a book or video that is even close to the knowledge and experience gained from a specialist. They do not even supply service but farm it out.

Honda makes a good engine, so too does Briggs & Stratton, Kawasaki, Kohler and Robin. There are others too but even in this group there are great products and not so great ones.

Every manufacturer of pressure washers tries to maximize their components. In most cases that means running as close as possible to the rated performance of each piece. In many cases this is not a problem but as the price becomes more important then quality must neccessarily fall so longeviy suffers accordingly.

In other words do you want a component running flat out all the time at it's max or do you want some leeway so that it is there if you need it?

Ie: a General T3500 is rated at 3.5 GPM at 2030 PSI at 3600 RPM, a T1321 is rated at 5.5 GPM at 2100 PSI at 1150 RPM, so at 3.6 GPM it is running at 770 RPM. Both can run at 3.5 @ 2000, which do you think will last longer?

Direct drive pump/power combinations have at least 1/3 the life of belt drive units which usually cost no more than twice as much. Can you afford to pay that much more for less?

Pressure is dangerous, period. Over 1000 PSI you can destroy a wood deck, strip paint, break windows or hurt yourself. Keep that in mind when you are looking at pressure washers. Flow rules! Flow is directly related to horsepower; more the merrier.

It is wiser to spend more money up front than to spend a little bit every time. It is actually cheaper in the long run.

Change engine oil every 50 hours or annually (whichever occurs first) with a good quality oil as required by the manufacturer. Change pump oil every 200 hours (or annually) with at least a straight 30 weight non-detergent oil or if direct drive a 80-90 gear lube. Check the pump oil every time you use the pressure washer, if it looks milky then you most likely have a water leak so get the unit serviced NOW.

Look seriously at hiring a professional contract cleaner to do the job for you. It will be done faster, safer, better and with fewer problems often for a lot less than a pressure washer will cost you.

Merely my humble opinion. YES, I do sell pressure washers to professional pressure washer dealers. My job is to support them so that they can grow their business and service their customer's (you) NEEDS as opposed to wants.

Hope this helps? Cheers.

By the way the email address is my personal one and does not go through my employer. Send me a note any time and I promise to respond.
 
Truly great information



Here is another related post by Michael


Be aware that these are guides and not hard and fast rules. Sorry about some of the math but most calculators will handle it :)?

Horsepower required: Flow (GPM) x Pressure (PSI) / 1460 = Electric Motor HP

Electric motor Horsepower x 1.5 = Gasoline Engine HP

Using the above formula and substituting 1100 for the 1460 arrives at an answer used by some manufacturers for Gasoline Engine HP. This is an 'Engineering Theoretical Performance' value derived from all components working perfectly according to theory. I do not find this to be realistic.

Using the above formula you can derive the following unknown values if you know part of the information.

Flow (GPM) = (HP / Pressure) x 1460
Pressure (PSI) = (HP / Flow) x 1460

For the correct nozzle size use the following:

Nozzle # = GPM x [Square root of (4000 / PSI)] A #4 nozzle will give you 4 GPM at 4000 PSI.

Therefore, GPM = Nozzle # x [Square root of (PSI / 4000)] and
PSI = (GPM / Nozzle #) Squared x 4000

On average you will lose 24 PSI per 100' run of 1/2" ID hose at 4 GPM; 34 PSI @ 5 GPM and 52 PSI at 6 GPM.

NEVER fall for Cleaning Units or Cleaning Performance numbers derived from GPM x PSI. This is not an accurate formula for comparison; this however is:

Reaction Force (in Pounds) = [GPM x (Square root of PSI)] / 18.92.

Therefore using a 2 GPM @ 1000 PSI unit as the start;

RF is (2 x 31.62) / 18.92 = 3.34#.

Double the flow to 4 GPM (4 x 31.62) / 18.92 = 6.69#.
Double the pressure but keep the flow (2 x 44.72) / 18.92 = 4.73#
Quadruple the pressure but keep the flow (2 x 63.25) / 18.92 = 6.69#

As I have said before FLOW IS OF MORE VALUE THAN PRESSURE, now you know why.

100,000 BTU will give a 140 degree F (60 C) heat rise per gallon of water. This is a Rule of Thumb as efficiencies of coils vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Forgot about water; it weighs 1 kilogram/ litre or 10 pounds/ Imperial gallon or 8.35 pounds/ US gallon.

The above information must be credited to Cat Pumps, Giant Pumps, Beckett Burners and my science teachers.

Hope this helps? Cheers.


One of the first members to highlight the value of Impact formula vs Cleaning Units (which manufactures get us hung up on).
 
And even more related good stuff from "Mechanical Michael"

Cat Pump publishes the following formula which is MORE ACCURATE!!!

(Flow x Pressure) / 1460 = Electric Brake Horsepower

EBHP x 1.5 = Gasoline engine HP

Why start with EBHP? Becaue there are International Standards regarding the performance of electric motors where any 5 hp is exactly the same as any other. NEMA sets and administers the standard in North America.

There are no performance standards for engines, none.

Using 1100 as the constant is specious because it is based on a THEORETICAL performance level of all components tested. As a quick estimate it may be adequate but it does tend to provide optimistic numbers. That number is most often used by suppliers to 'Big Boxes' who also foist 'Cleaning Units' on the ignorant.

Since EBHP IS a known and repeatable number then it is appropriate to use this as the starting point. The 1.5 factor is based on field experience and represents a gasoline engine HP requirement closer to actual.

A 20hp engine from different manufacturers will perform differently. It has to do with torque rise, RPM, BSFC, atmospheric conditions and so on. This is why you CANNOT and SHOULD NOT use a dubious number to arrive at horsepower figures.

All you have to do is look at the performance differences in Class 8 Heavy-duty diesel engines; a 350hp Mack will always be able to pull with or even out-pull a 400 or higher Cat/Cummins/Detroit.

Hope this prevents errors in the future?

Cheers.





Scott,

Not wanting to take away from the original post on this thread but small engines do not publish BSHP only Brake Specific Fuel Consumption.

Unfortunately there are no SAE standards regarding small engine performance. This is why you have to do a best guess comparison to Electric Motors which do have standards. Manufacturers rate their own engines and as is human nature will 'fudge' in their favour.

However, torque is what does the work not HP. This is why my beloved Mack trucks work so well because of that fact. On a straight level road HP is all you need. Anytime you require the engine to work then you need torque, more the merrier. In a perfect world we would all be using Kawasaki small engines because of their higher torque rise and lower BSFC; Honda has made that proposition difficult though. Honda does still build a very good engine and their new V-twins are really starting to get a good reputation.

Each small engine manufacturer publishes a graph of torque and HP versus RPM, combined with BSFC you can determine the optimal place to make your engine work in the RPM range.

As to the originator of this post, he did mistype and a 24hp Honda will do the job. I have looked at his trailers and he seems to have applied experience gianed from using machines to clean.

All due apologies to graytruck91 (hopefully a Mack :0 ) for taking his post where it need not go. For those of you looking for a two gun system from someone with experience in cleaning you might just want to give him a call.

Hope this helps? Cheers.
 
Back
Top