Interior floor cleaning?

Sounds like a fine idea to me.
 
Just add a "Low-Pressure Regulator" to your pressure washer with an adjustable temp control,
and you have a "Multi-Functional system"..
We've been doing combo P.W.-Steam and Tile & Grout systems for almost 25 years..
The last one was a 6.5 @4000 capable of 1500psi Tile & grout at 230 drgr.F.
or miltiple-wand Carpet cleaning with a Sirocco SGV.
adjustability = MultiFunctionality= Profitablity BigTime.

IF you don't want your customers to be talking to "other contractors"..
BE as "full-Service" as you can, for the most profitable customers.

I have a customer that has contracts with hospitals, and is very "happy".
 
The system flow, pressure and temp. have to be balanced properly,
and the BEST safeties and controls should be used.
Call me if you're serious about this.
Multi-Functionality cleans like heck ..and ROCKS with profitability !

And .. a Hi-Temp. bonus for you'all in the northern states.. Ice-Dam removal
 
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Not trying to hi-jack the thread but what about moving the controls of the skid?

I know a few guys that have the skids in the box truck where you have to climb into the truck to turn the machine on/off and turn the burner on/off.

What would be needed to put the key switch and thermostat controls (on/off switch and thermostat adjustment) near the back door of the box truck?

For fleet washing the faster you get washing and in/out of the place and to the next place the more efficient you are.

I am looking at a box truck and would also like to re-locate the controls of the skid close to the roll up door as the truck might have a lift gate or steps and the less often you have to climb up in the truck the better. You can just roll up the door half way, pull out the hose, start the machine and start working.

This is not about being lazy but climbing in and out of the back of the truck does add more time to the job where if you can be setup where you don't climb in at all and start/stop working and get to the next job the more time you save.

I was thinking about cutting a door into the side of the box for fueling but sometimes you have to move things around for weight distribution until you have everything where you need things to be and then you can cut into the box, until then you might move things around for a while so cutting the box would not be until down the road a while, if ever.

I am thinking about just moving the key switch and the on/off for the burner, if I need to change the temperature then that could be climbing into the truck but for fleets it would be set the same all the time.

Would this be as simple as running longer wires to the back of the truck for the key switch and the on/off switch for the burner or is there more involved in doing this?

With all the contractors using enclosed trailers and box trucks, I wonder if any of the vendors out there offer a kit to relocate those 2 switches, I have not seen any?
 
Remote controls: Box Van and Box Truck systems

On BoxTruck systems, we mount a control panel at the back door for those reasons.
Also, we run feed-lines UNDER the floor, instead of across isles,
and HP hoses go across the overhead, especially when we mount Hose reels overhead.
..back to the engine controls..
the only hard part, is getting throttle and choke controls run with wire-extensions..
a lawnmower or Construction-Equipment Repair shops can sell you custom-length throttle and choke lines,
and most engines have hardware to acommodate the remote controls.
In the image.. the PW controls are on the diamond-plate panel on the right.
Vac controls, we didn't have to move.
..Also.. when customer added a Vac-Hose reel over the H2Otank.. we put a control switch on the easy-access panel,
using a beefy relay at the Vacuum's battery. .. .. Nice. Eh?

View attachment SHGV GMS image w blurb.pdf

..and yes Chris, you did hijack the thread. LOL
 
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That was the only thing that was throwing me off was the choke cables, of course leave it to the man to figure it out. Great job Jerry!
 
How much for a panel with wires for just the on/off for the pressure washer and an on/off switch for the burner running about 10-15' away from the pressure washer?
 
we build to order..
e-mail me please
I need to know.. which engine, is heater 12volts or 120vAC
 
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Paul Kassander said:
I use the sirocco recovery system, it worked great the difference was quite dramatic. Its tough to get a real good picture though because when the floor gets wet it shines a lot. Maybe I just need a good camera.
Click to expand...
I would be very interested in learning more about this. As long as were on the subject I have always wondered how the corners would get clean? Any corner attachments for this? Nice to hear the sirocco systems would work well for this.
 
Jerry told me at the events that he has something in the works for cleaning the edges and corners.

That would be a good tool to have, faster and easier than using brushes and mopping.
 
I moved my controls to the side door for my unit start/stop and burner on/off. Anything that ran across the floor that could be stepped on I ran through conduit to protect it. The only problem with door control would be an adjustable thermostat I am not aware of one with that long of a capillary tube. For the choke if you need it you can get some long cables that will work, I have EFI engines so that is not an issue for me. As for my hoses I had some stainless steel jumper pipes made to go from my machine to the reels and I use a short jumper whip to go from the machine to the pipes and then to the hose reels. I secured them to the side wall and that helped with any problems of blowing hoses in the middle. If I every have a problem it is a 5 min fix to change out a jumper I can easily reach instead of running a 25' hose through the truck.

When I did the tile job I just used the wand to spray the corners and base boards, it really was not a lot of water so picking that up was easy. There is a spray and recovery wand available that works well also.
 
Paul, do you have any pictures of the controls?

Maybe you should make a universal kit with the key switch and burner switch and maybe 15' of wire so it would work with any brand and either 12 volt or 120 volt burners?

If you are not interested in making a kit, when you have time could you go into detail on how we could do this ourselves?

Thanks Paul.
 
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