Inside the downstream injector

Bjoernar said:
Does it make sense to run an antifreeze mix through it after rinsing?
Click to expand...

You know,..when I first read this answer I thought,.what the heck would you do that for? BUT after rethinking it,..If I were to have a sticking issue again,..I think I might try what you're saying. I bet a little shot of the cheap red anti-freeze through the injector at the end of the job may coat it just enough to stop the sticking. In fact, I may get in the habit anyhow,..not really that hard,..one quick pull of the trigger.

Good Suggestion!
Jeff
 
Ralph Q said:
Had an issue with the ball sticking right after I changed my unloader. It was the initial blast when you pull the trigger that did it. My unloader needed a slight adjustment, and it hasn't done it since.
Click to expand...


Thanks Ralph. Just swapped a third brand new one in and its working fine. used for twenty minutes with lots of pressure on off cycles.

Just in case, what adjustments did you make to the unloader.

And has anyone had better luck with them with a small length of hose between the injector and the hard plumbing of the machine. I was thinking of a 6 foot whip line first to help the unloader.
 
Ralph Q said:
Had an issue with the ball sticking right after I changed my unloader. It was the initial blast when you pull the trigger that did it. My unloader needed a slight adjustment, and it hasn't done it since.
Click to expand...
So how did you adjust the unloader ?.Did you increase or decrease the setting on it.? I have heaps of problems with my DS Injector. works one minute and not the next.. How does the orifice size influence the injector.?
 
WASH-IT H.B. said:
So how did you adjust the unloader ?.Did you increase or decrease the setting on it.? I have heaps of problems with my DS Injector. works one minute and not the next.. How does the orifice size influence the injector.?
Click to expand...


I thought I had it set right, but when I let go of the trigger it would spike like 600 psi. On that machine the spike should have been 250 psi. So I decreased the setting a bit. I blew out two injectors in one day. One of them was a super suds sucker that cost me over $100.

Orifice is what creates the pressure differential that causes the injector to open and close. the pressure going in and coming out has to be in a certain range for the venturi (vacuum) effect to work. When people have problems it is usually that the hose is too long and creates back pressure that falls out of the range that the injector needs to open. If that happens go to the next size down. I am running a 3-5 gpm(2.1) injector on my 10 gpm machine, because I run 200-300 feet of hose.
 
PB Blaster and marine bearing grease will save you money on injectors and quick connectors. RINSE SPRAY THEN COAT. My hose end barbs and cc's that only get occasionally used are 1- sprayed 1st with PB Blaster 2 -coated in marine bearing grease 3 covered with a plastic sandwich bag and rubberbanded tight. Also I keep all new cc's, male ends and anything that has a slightest possibility of rust or corrosion in a gal freezer bag which was lightly sprayed with PB Blaster. And sometimes for a change a little PB BLASTER on a peanut butter and jelly sandwich will cure midnight munchies.
 
Just to reiterate the point of clipping the spring. Not sure where I read that originally,..but it works really well to stop the sticking. Haven't had to un-stick the ball since about the middle of last season. This trick works really well. At first i would poke it before starting,.and noticed it was never stuck anyhow,..now I don't even go through the motions. I also rinse out the injector after every use,..always did that anyhow though.


Jeff
 
al9226 said:
I keep vinegar on the truck. When I rinse (injectors and pumps) I add a cup to the rinse water. Seems to work as I seldom have one stick anymore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Because vinegar is an acid wouldn't it be harsh on the o-rings? Also don't you then have to then neutralize the vinegar with baking soda or something?
 
Al I've thought of actually running something like a jet dry or dishwasher soap though everything because our tds readings are so high. If those detergents keep our drinking glasses from building calcium deposit why not our pumps. My areas tds is between 275-350 which may cause increased wear. How effective it would be on pumps probably little but it may help injectors during a final rinse dislodging sh salt and soap build up.
 
What kind of injector Ralph? By the price it sounds like the GP High Draw? It's not the money,.it's the aggravation of brand new ones sticking. If you can get them to not stick with no modifications and you don't have to ever poke the ball,...you must be getting better ones than I do. With that said,..I'm not gonna toss a brand new injector when a simple fix is to be had. It's not being cheap,..it's being more concerned about the time fooling around with sticking injectors.

Jeff
 
Ralph Q said:
I thought I had it set right, but when I let go of the trigger it would spike like 600 psi. On that machine the spike should have been 250 psi. So I decreased the setting a bit. I blew out two injectors in one day. One of them was a super suds sucker that cost me over $100.

Orifice is what creates the pressure differential that causes the injector to open and close. the pressure going in and coming out has to be in a certain range for the venturi (vacuum) effect to work. When people have problems it is usually that the hose is too long and creates back pressure that falls out of the range that the injector needs to open. If that happens go to the next size down. I am running a 3-5 gpm(2.1) injector on my 10 gpm machine, because I run 200-300 feet of hose.
Click to expand...

Cured my problem by replacement.
I am running a 22ltr a minute machine with 55 metres of hose. replace the DS injector (size unknown) with a 2.1 and now have soap to burn...made a huge difference. I go though a it more product but at least my customers can see it going on and they are well impressed.
 
I find that in some injectors the ball stick in the o-ring. I have to open the gun and push the ball with a pointy object. Usually the first part of the day and that's it. I find they will stick when I use the bypass valve. It's like the pressure just hammers the ball into the o-ring.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top