High Pressure In-Line Filter?

G

glabarta

New member
I just installed a high pressure in line filter. Question. Should I go back and figure out a way to back flush my flat surface cleaner? Is this even possible? I know I can take off the nozzles and clean them. Remove the spray arms and clean them also. But what about the spinner? Is there anything I can do, besides maybe taking the thing apart?
Thanks, Glen
 
Just remove the nozzles and pull the trigger, that will flush out anything in the spinner bar.

Want double protection put one inline filter at the end of the line where it feeds into your spinner.

Are you nozzles clogging up quite often? if so do you have a inline fliter before it feeds into your pump? is it large or tiny and do you clean it weekly?
 
I am with you chuck, I have a garden hose filter, filter in float tank, and one after the float tank... Never had a problem with pressure spikes to blow out the filter...

Matt
 
You can still get

crud from the fittings,coil,QD,AND BITS OF TEFLON TAPE. If you dont use a inline.
Use one and see how much crud it picks up.
My problem with the in-line filters is they dont use stainless steel and they rust. Also that they dont sell just the screens that go in them.
 
I don't use a surface cleaner, but I do use SS HP filters before my turbo nozzle (use infrequently) and X Jets (use frequently). Believe you can get from ESpec.
 
Jon and Ron, You guys being senior members, I am confussed about what is the best way... Ron it seems that you do not use them, so you live with the clogged... Jon, you use two and I assume that you have filters before your pump and you dont have a problem.... So I am going to assume that Jon you dont have any problems, but the next question would be, how often do clean your inline filters or change them out...

I can unclog a tip in about 30 sec... I use a small allen wrench or torch cleaner....

Sorry this is cobbled, just got a phone call for a a.s.a.p. kitchen floor, going to be big bucks...

Matt
 
Bill,

Good point turbo, you may want to use them while using your turbo.

Matt, its not about senior anything. I just prefer taking 30 secs to unclog my tips once in a great while. The filter thing always happens when you’re not expecting it and then your down trying to tare down that stupid ¼ inch line. I took the lines out and made then 3/8. None of my surface cleaners have them.

Jon may have never had any issues because he runs one machine and takes care of it. Probably doesn’t have any sediment build up and never has had to tear one down in the dark.

If they made a Y – strainer type ¼ filters I would have one on every unit.
 
Surface cleaner/turbo filters

I configured my surface cleaner to have a s.s. plug on the outfeed end and the european twist quick connect on the infeed end.
If I have a stopped up filter I can immediately change it out in 30 seconds or back flush it using my wand!

To me it is kind of like cheap insurance for my rotary union or turbo nozzles.

The turbo inline filters can also be back flushed rather easily as a unit.

Just screw a plug into the outfeed end and plug into your wand. Spray for approximately one minute and your good to go. I usually back flush these at a latter time. I use a crecsant wrench to remove the filter assembly and replace it with one that is ready to including sealer. Takes maybe a minute. I don't use teflon tape but a paste that has teflon in it. If any gets in the filter the water will disolve it.

Have not bought any filters in 6-8 months using the above procedures.

Sorry for the length!!!!!
 
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i use the filters for 2 reasons

one, to try and make the turbo tip last longer and to get the most life from the spinner.
Two, to see what's clogging the filter.
You can sometimes get a good idea about your equipment. If it's rubber,scale,grit,teflon tape,ect....kind of gives you a heads-up.
I dont re-assemble with sealer, i use never sieze.
I can take mine apart and put in a new screen in about 30 sec. with a leathermans tool called a cinch.[small locking pliers with all the other gizmo's].
Someone should make a larger one for surface cleaners where weight is not a problem.
Spinners can cost over $300.
They also need a reversable design, so you can just reverse to back flush. You can do this yourself by taking the fittings apart but i want a NO-TOOL way to do it. Lastly to make the whole assembly rust proof.
If they built a filter like that it would double the life of anything on the end of the wand and would be worth a lot more then the currant ones.
 
Ron,

Don’t take this wrong buddy I just want you to use the right terms and maybe I’m confused. The spinner you’re talking about is called a rotary union. The rotary union has nothing to do with obstruction or damage do to sediment that comes thru it. The opening is 3/8 inch wide and if anything clogged or damage it. The filter is only to stop the tips from clogging.

When the tips get clogged it sends the message back to the unloader that you have less flow and the by-pass kicks on. That causes a false sense that you have a pressure problem.

That’s why I do not like the filter on the surface cleaners. Just not worth the hassle to remove the darn thing to clean it.

I would use one before a turbo because the turbo can clog and it’s not easy getting the obstruction out if you can.


When I did use these filters I never cleaned them I just replaced them the filter only cost a few cents. Besides half the time they would fall apart and you would find they went right out the tip.


I have guys employed and we train them not to touch anything on the equipment. Liability reasons don’t want anyone getting hurt.

Ron, I cannot change or check this filter in thirty seconds, often when I have a problem they are corroded on and often I have to cut the dam thing off with a torch. (Just kidding about the torch, but it seems to always be a real beach.) LOL

It’s Just my opinion about using them on a surface cleaner. Again use them on turbo because turbo is expensive and not easy to un-clog.


I feel strongly and hope I don’t upset anyone because I have dealt with this for 19 years and don’t want to steer anyone the wrong direction. If they have made a smaller y-strainer then I would sue a filter. (I don’t think they have)
 
this has been a good thread!!!


Matt
 
Ron M.,

Don't most manufactures of surface cleaners recommend their useage?

The cost of the rotary union is $300. + depending on where you purchase it. The filter runs about $10.00.

Also when the the tips start clogging because no filter is being used, wont the operator notice a change in the feel of the s.c.?
When mine plugged I noticed an unusual flow of water coming from the bottom of s.c. because there was no longer rotation. That was before I started using filters!

Not trying to be argumentive here just trying to add what I have learned.

Hey maybe one of your useful polls on filtering would be great !
 
Beyoungsr,

That filter has nothing to do with clogging the rotary union. Yes they are expensive, not using a filter is not going to hurt them. Repeat repeat repeat,,, its only keeps your tips from clogging. The union hole is 3/8… it would take a rock to stop that up. I have never had a rock that large ever come thru my PW.

Yes the surface cleaner should perform better with out the restriction of that filter. Yes they probably recommend them so they can sell you the screens and unloaders that you replace before you figure out that you have a dirty filter.
 
Ron,
If you don't use a filter on the hp side, is there a chance of damage to the rotary union seal because of any impurities coming thru?

I have a filter between my supply tank and the pump inlet. If I take on water during a job, I usually input the water into my tank first. I'm always drawing the water from the tank. Then I know I'm always getting superior filtration.

But after Ron M. mentioned the scale and rust thing, I'm rethinking my strategy.
 
Ron Musgraves said:


Yes the surface cleaner should perform better with out the restriction of that filter.
Click to expand...
Ron,
Why would the filter hinder the ability of a surface cleaner? Of course, we are talking about a clean filter right? Not a badly clogged one.
 
Alan, I don’t mean to be silly but I’m talking about older equipment. I have old and new machines and I don’t de-scale my coils like you might. I have lots of sediment in my coils and I really don’t want to fool with clogging filters. Its easier for me to deal with a tip clogging rather than that silly filter that I think serves no purpose. Its my opinion;;; that’s all it is. Often this sediment will pass thru the tips and will not thru a filter. I would be wasting time un-clogging filters and just don’t need the hassle. I’ve been running the dublins for years without filters and they run fine. I took those stupid filters off years ago.

Tony, rotary union No chance………….a turbo yes…. Always run a filter before your pump. Not after its useless.


My last reply, i have stated my posistion four times. try it...you'll like it.
 
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