Etching

Jim Cooney said:
:killingme:

But Scott has a great point. I have experienced certain situations where one section of a slab will stripe, and the rest of the slab turns out perfect.

I've been in the construction business most of my career, and have witnessed mixers lined up 3 to 5 at a time. The mix starts getting "hot", and they add water to the mix to keep it workable. This explains the deterioration of the density of the concrete once cured, especially the cream.

I bid a job today and where the roof drain spilled out onto the concrete it was maybe 1/8" etched and the aggregate was exposed big time.

Craftsmanship in the past 10 years took a turn for the worse in the construction industry, at least in this part of the Country. Cheap labor was favored by the greedy contractors, and the "foremen" and "supervisors" qualified by being bi lingual, instead of journeyman and length of tenure.

That's as "PC" as I can muster.
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+10 you said it right there, no quality control, no pride in workmanship like many years ago. I clean some concrete that you can't damage it with a 0-degree nozzle at 3000psi at very hight temperatures where you can shave the cream off with only 2000 down to 1500psi with a 25 or 40 degree fan these days.

Too bad companies don't have the manpower to watch the pours to make sure it is good work so they don't get ripped off.
 
Christopher said:
What the dial thermostat knob says and what really comes out of the heater are two completely different things.

The only way you know the temperature of the water coming out of the heater is with a temperature gauge. Do you have a temperature gauge or just going by what the markings on the knob read?

You can pop gum at the 170 degree setting a lot of the time but the hotter the faster the gum comes up until your machine is spraying steam, then it slows down some (if your machine has a steam valve).
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You Are right on here Chris. So many on the site say they have 250 degrees or even 300 degrees. All of this because they bought a thermostat and set it to 300.

I wonder.... When it is 108 out here in my area, if I turn the A/C on and turn the thermostat down to 45 degrees, will my house get to 45 degrees? I mean, the dial says 45 degrees, so I must be at 45 degrees...... NO!!! Same situation.

I am sooooo tired of people saying or advertising that they have 250 to 300 degrees under a full load at 3,500 psi at 6-8 GPM's when they have less then 700,000 BTU boiler.

We can hit it because of our boilers which are at 1.1 Million BTU's each, of which, if I need more heat, I can daisy chain them together by a flip of a switch giving us 2.2 million BTU's.

If your boiler is 380,000 BTU's, you will not be able to go to 170 degrees in the dead of winter when it is 38 degrees outside, unless you are at the desert where it is allot warmer.
 
Jim@Garagecleaning said:
You Are right on here Chris. So many on the site say they have 250 degrees or even 300 degrees. All of this because they bought a thermostat and set it to 300.

I wonder.... When it is 108 out here in my area, if I turn the A/C on and turn the thermostat down to 45 degrees, will my house get to 45 degrees? I mean, the dial says 45 degrees, so I must be at 45 degrees...... NO!!! Same situation.

I am sooooo tired of people saying or advertising that they have 250 to 300 degrees under a full load at 3,500 psi at 6-8 GPM's when they have less then 700,000 BTU boiler.

We can hit it because of our boilers which are at 1.1 Million BTU's each, of which, if I need more heat, I can daisy chain them together by a flip of a switch giving us 2.2 million BTU's.

If your boiler is 380,000 BTU's, you will not be able to go to 170 degrees in the dead of winter when it is 38 degrees outside, unless you are at the desert where it is allot warmer.
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Hahahahaha careful of what you say here, some might not get the right idea and think.....different.....things about you. hahahahahahaha j/k
 
Christopher said:
+10 you said it right there, no quality control, no pride in workmanship like many years ago. I clean some concrete that you can't damage it with a 0-degree nozzle at 3000psi at very hight temperatures where you can shave the cream off with only 2000 down to 1500psi with a 25 or 40 degree fan these days.

Too bad companies don't have the manpower to watch the pours to make sure it is good work so they don't get ripped off.
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Another point here, Concrete continues to get harder over time. The older the cement, the stronger it is. Yes allot is because of workmanship, however, it will still get harder over the years even with so so installation
 
use a soap nozel if worst comes to worst i get like 350* on my boiler....:sarcastic: (J/k jim)
 
Jim@Garagecleaning said:
Another point here, Concrete continues to get harder over time. The older the cement, the stronger it is. Yes allot is because of workmanship, however, it will still get harder over the years even with so so installation
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I saw something on the hover dam the other day and the engineer guy said that some of the concrete there is still just as wet as the day it was poured.
 
I just did a KFC with darker concrete sidewalks. Circles all over the place. My fault. No complaints yet but i'm wondering how to even it out or lighten it up now?
 
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