Easy Start Valve

814jeffw

Active member
I was looking through old threads and came upon something that led me to something else, Ha,Ha,..

I was noticed some people use easy start valves,.it is a valve that threads into the un-used outlet of the PW pump,..it sorta acts like a decompression valve acts on a gas engine like bigger chain saws have. The easy start valve keeps the pressure from building in the system,.allowing the engine to turn over freely with less drag on the starter and battery. I seen someone mention the use of a high pressure ball valve in place of this valve,..they just have it open with a hose running back into the supply tank,..then when the engine starts and running they then shut the valve.

I found that interesting,..as it is now I sometimes just let the ball valve on the hose open while I start the engine and let it flow until I get to it,..no big deal really,..and this accomplishes the same thing.

But what I found even more interesting, or should I say thought provoking,..is this: Instead of using the second port for an easy start valve,... Would it be beneficial in any way to run your main pressure line from this second port,..instead of running it from the unloader?,..And just use the unloader to bypass. The unloader would only have to be working when you left off the trigger? Does this make sense to anyone else? Would it save wear on the unloader? Would it provide more flow from the pump,..simply due to being able to bypass the unloader,...but the unloader would still bypass as soon as you left off the trigger?


Jeff
 

814jeffw

Active member
Thanks Ben,.Yea,.I am just trying to get my head around it. The whole thing is likely irrelevant,...just curious is all though.

Jeff
 

ben skipworth

New member
Well when you are on the trigger the unloader isn't doing any work right? So once you let off the pressure would build up and the unloader would start unloading like normal.
I guess you could test it but I would make sure you have a good pop off valve installed first so you don't fry your pump
 

Sirocco Jerry

Active member
An unloader Valve performs 2 functions..
First, it is a Regulator.. it regulates the working pressure up to the "spike-Pressure" setting required for the valve to actuate.
Second, it "Unloads" pressure against the pump, whilst in bypass, one of two ways..
Pressure-actuated, or Flow actuated..
if you try to avoid using the outlet of the unloader, you'll find it doesn't work to build pressure at all.
 

814jeffw

Active member
Ok,.thanks Jerry. I knew there had to be something I was missing. Just something that came to mind while searching something else,.and thought I'd wander and ponder a little.

Jeff
 

mrbill58

New member
I was looking through old threads and came upon something that led me to something else, Ha,Ha,..

I was noticed some people use easy start valves,.it is a valve that threads into the un-used outlet of the PW pump,..it sorta acts like a decompression valve acts on a gas engine like bigger chain saws have. The easy start valve keeps the pressure from building in the system,.allowing the engine to turn over freely with less drag on the starter and battery. I seen someone mention the use of a high pressure ball valve in place of this valve,..they just have it open with a hose running back into the supply tank,..then when the engine starts and running they then shut the valve.

I found that interesting,..as it is now I sometimes just let the ball valve on the hose open while I start the engine and let it flow until I get to it,..no big deal really,..and this accomplishes the same thing.

But what I found even more interesting, or should I say thought provoking,..is this: Instead of using the second port for an easy start valve,... Would it be beneficial in any way to run your main pressure line from this second port,..instead of running it from the unloader?,..And just use the unloader to bypass. The unloader would only have to be working when you left off the trigger? Does this make sense to anyone else? Would it save wear on the unloader? Would it provide more flow from the pump,..simply due to being able to bypass the unloader,...but the unloader would still bypass as soon as you left off the trigger?


Jeff
I made the same setup, and been using for a while now. I use a high pressure valve from pump back to water tank, and the bypass on my unloader goes back to the same tank. I use the high pressure bypass when I start the engine to idle under no pressure to warm up then close valve for operation. I also use an idler control on all pumps so when you let off the trigger, the engines will idle. Then when im done, I will open high pressure bypass and let engines idle with no pressure for a minute before shut down. This has worked out great for me It saves gas and wear and tear on engines and pumps.
 

ben skipworth

New member
I Know at least one company offered a machine setup like this but they stopped making it because it had issues.
What have you done to make it reliable?
 

mrbill58

New member
I Know at least one company offered a machine setup like this but they stopped making it because it had issues.
What have you done to make it reliable?
Only mod I had to do is tweek the carbs so when you squeeze the trigger and the unloader closes the pump is back under pressure the same time gaining rpm's. That was the only issue I had....and I bought aftermarket carbs that are adjustable to make them work. About 14.00 on ebay to fit 13hp honda engines

Bill Sharp
Multi Pressure Washing
 

mrbill58

New member
Ben,

Was the idle control the issue you mentioned?

Mike
Yes some what.....the carbs that come with honda engines are non adjustable to California specs but Im in Texas and are set to lean. On the aftermarket carbs, i set them to run more rich than factory and still way in normal throttle range, and set the low idle up about 150 to 200 rpms to keep engine running cool and also not trying to start from low idle with a load on them. Every now and then the engine will stall but not often enough to be a nuisance. Yes I like to tinker with things.

Bill Sharp
Multi Pressure Washing
 

ben skipworth

New member
Thanks for the replies, yes I belive that was the issue, So you're saying an aftermarket carb and tuning it a little rich will fix it?
 

ben skipworth

New member
I'm actually building a big diesel pressure washer right now that has the throttle controlled by a 12v actuator, I was thinking I could use a pressure switch to idle it down when I'm not on the trigger.
It would only take a couple extra wires and a relay.
 

mrbill58

New member
Thanks for the replies, yes I belive that was the issue, So you're saying an aftermarket carb and tuning it a little rich will fix it?
That and raising the idle rpms up a little work great for me. Due to upcoming surgery, I am down till around May, and in this time frame my trailer is torn down and starting from ground up with lots of upgrades. I have built a 12 channel remote controller to operate equipment and other items on trailer. I also built my own perportioning valves for high pressure (pressure washers) and low pressure ( roof cleaning with 100psi 7 glp pump. When I get all this done and complete and balanced, I would very much like to share this with all you guys wuth a private utube vidio. I have gathered and learned a lot of info from yall and would like to share back....If yall are searching for who this is, I have temporarily taken my website and facebook page down till I get back to work. I can be reached however at bill@multipressurewashing.com
 

mrbill58

New member
I'm actually building a big diesel pressure washer right now that has the throttle controlled by a 12v actuator, I was thinking I could use a pressure switch to idle it down when I'm not on the trigger.
It would only take a couple extra wires and a relay.
It should work...same principle just different approach. I use the mechanical ones triggered by pressure. Your diesel should work better than my gas rigs due to the fact a diesel engine has low end torque which will rev up even under a load....good luck with your project and keep me posted on how its working for you and your tweaks.
 

814jeffw

Active member
I like the idea of the idle control,.I had thought about that in the past and I know they have been around for a long time,...I always liked the way a compressor will idle back when the system is pressurized. The issue I thought with doing this with a PW would be the washer would have to be using full pressure to make the idle control work and kick the engine back up to MAX RPM? I use big low pressure nozzles for house washing,..the only time I use any real pressure is with a rotating nozzle or surface cleaner.

Am I correct in my thinking on how this "idle down" function works?

*On a side note,.I don't see why using a ball valve to lesson the strain at start-up would hurt anything,..when it's open,..it would simply flow,....when it's shut,..it would be no different than the plug being in the outlet.

Jeff
 

clean2be

New member
Back in the fall of 2001, I was looking to purchase a smaller 4gpm machine so, in February of 02 I purchased a North Star Industrial belt drive powered by the GX390 with a nine lives pump. It has the idle control and has been an absolute Cadillac of pressure washing machines. All these years later, it has only stalled twice when kicking up. Most of the homes I use it on, I have the throttle set between 1/2 to 3/4. This machine having the belt drive, engine/pump mounting plate on rubber isolators along with the factory 8 gal fuel tank, idle control, electric start, hour meter, remote panel mount unloader and full tube cage frame is most likely one of the best machines Northern ever offered.

The idle control has been wonderful. Other than rebuilding the unloader once a few years ago, the system has worked flawlessly... I have no idea as to how much it has extended the life of the engine and the Cat pump but I'm confident it is a whole bunch of hours. Of course there is also the savings in fuel and the reduction of noise!!!

I added some additional plumbing to the machine shortly after purchasing which gives me an additional low pressure garden hose connection at the machine for rinsing things or my hands without the need of breaking open the supply line. I also added an additional high pressure connection with a quick connect ball valve and short boom hose so I can start the machine with open flow and when shutting it down, I can bleed the pressure off without having to walk all the way back to the gun.

Mike
 

814jeffw

Active member
Michael,..when you're running your washer and it's at the low idle position,..and you decide to apply soap or rinse with a very low PSI nozzle,..like 600 PSI,..will that trigger the engine back to full RPM,..or does it have to have more pressure to activate the throttle to MAX setting? Having the engine kick back to full RPM would be very important to me,..I want the pump running at full capacity all the time when I'm on the trigger or using an open ball valve.

Also,.considering there is no end on the line from the easy start ball valve,.is using HP hose important. I wouldn't think so,..as it's never going to be restricted.

Thanks,
Jeff
 

clean2be

New member
Hi Jeff, with the setting I have on my unloader, as soon as it drops down to 2000 psi, the idle control lets go. Yes, you will be able to apply your soap at whatever rpms you have the throttle set at.

No, you won't need HP hose coming off your easy start with an open line.

I can't remark enough about the idle control. It's great to have!!!

Mike
 

814jeffw

Active member
Ok,..I may be missing something,...but,..if the idle control is triggered at 2000 PSI,..that sounds like anything under 2000 PSI it the engine would be running at idle? Is that correct?

Or is the easy start valve adjustable to any desired PSI?

Jeff
 
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