Coxreel orings

Tony Shelton

Tony Shelton

BS Detector, Esquire
Can anybody tell me why I'm going through 0rings so fast on my coxreel? It uses two white split rings and two orings. Sometimes the split rings blow out, sometimes the orings blow out, sometimes both. Some times one side, sometimes both sides at the same time.

Yesterday we changed one side twice and the other side once, in less than 8 hours work. We were running temps (at the gun) at about 165.

I've got to find something better than this.
 
They are not orings for high temps and pressures. You can try and get the correct rings from your distributor, they should be teh Viton rings, or you can try a different brand of swivel. With cox, you are supposed to be able to tell your ditributor what you are doing, so that they can order teh right reel. A lot try and cut corners by ordering a cheaper reel.
 
I'm going through the exact same issues Tony, Northern has a 5,000 PSI replacement swivel for $30, I've taken a look at it and it looks very heavy duty but the seals are'nt viton and they are a square shape rather than round O-Rings, seems a bit harder to find for replacement.
 
Tony, do you pull all the hose that you're going to need before starting the machine? Sometimes the pressure will cause the o rings to peel around in the swivel.

How old is the swivel? Is there a possibility that the housing is worn to the point of exposing more of the o ring to the water?
 
I was going to say the same thing as Scott, get the Super Swivel, it is praised by a lot of guys that do a lot of work all the time.

I will be ordering one this next week for a hose reel that the swivel is questionable.

I am not trying to bash the Cox brand but through the years I have heard mostly bad things about them, I would ask around before giving them a try from what I have read on the boards.

On my Rapid Reel hose reels, I would just get leaks about every 2 or 2.5 years and replaced them, I did not know until last year that you could rebuild them (change out o-rings).





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Russ Johnson said:
Tony, do you pull all the hose that you're going to need before starting the machine? Sometimes the pressure will cause the o rings to peel around in the swivel.

How old is the swivel? Is there a possibility that the housing is worn to the point of exposing more of the o ring to the water?
Click to expand...

Russ, I don't. Usually we start the machine, pull out 25 ft to get to the back of the lift, then we don't start pulling hose till we are at the top of the building. (we have the hose guide pointing up for that reason)

The entire unit is less than 6 months old. I bought it new. It is however a brass swivel.
 
Those white split rings are called backups, they do just that, backup the o ring. Make sure when you put things back together that the backup is furthest from the pressure. When pressure gets to the o ring the o ring pushes against the backup, the backup expands filling any gap and not allowing the o ring to squeeze past which is a common failure. Youll see these in hydraulic systems all the time.
 
I always pull the hose out before starting the machine, I do not know if this really matters but since my hose reels were getting in very bad shape with the rust, I would not roll up or unroll any hose when the machine is running just to be safe.

Try unrolling all the hose first and see if the o-rings last longer that way if you can.

I was thinking about stringing some pressure hose into the booms of my bucket truck and just having to connect a jumper to the bottom of the hose and I would have about 10' of slack or more at the top.

Just an idea right now, that would keep the hose from hanging all over the place and getting snagged on things. The only problem would be with the hot water, the heat might do damage to the other hoses in the boom.

You might be able to do the same thing with your lift and keep a section up in the basket so when up on the roof, just connect it to the hose on the lift, maybe a 50' or 100' section. maybe even mount a small hose reel to the basket so you can roll it up when done on the roof.

Just some ideas.




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Christopher said:
I always pull the hose out before starting the machine, I do not know if this really matters but since my hose reels were getting in very bad shape with the rust, I would not roll up or unroll any hose when the machine is running just to be safe.

Try unrolling all the hose first and see if the o-rings last longer that way if you can.

I was thinking about stringing some pressure hose into the booms of my bucket truck and just having to connect a jumper to the bottom of the hose and I would have about 10' of slack or more at the top.

Just an idea right now, that would keep the hose from hanging all over the place and getting snagged on things. The only problem would be with the hot water, the heat might do damage to the other hoses in the boom.

You might be able to do the same thing with your lift and keep a section up in the basket so when up on the roof, just connect it to the hose on the lift, maybe a 50' or 100' section. maybe even mount a small hose reel to the basket so you can roll it up when done on the roof.

Just some ideas.




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Superior Power Washing<O:p</O:p
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Low Pressure Roof Cleaning in Corpus Christi Texas<O:p</O:p
Shingle Roof Washing and Tile Roof Washing in Corpus Christi Texas
Click to expand...

Chris, I already tried the hose reel on the basket. It was ok, but it was really heavy and maxed out the weight limiets all the time.

How about this, we're thinking about mounting a hose guide (with rollers) on the basket, AND hooking up the remote to the hose reel so we can reel it out with power.

Picture this:

You pull the hose to the bucket and run it through the hose guide.

Lift up to the roof.

Hop out of the bucket, push the remote that makes the hose reel reverse (to let hose out) and start walking.

Once you've got all the hose you need you hook up the gun and use the same remote to start the machine and another button to turn on the heat.

When you are done you turn off the heat and allow the water to flow through back into the tank till it cools somewhat

After a minute or so you cut off the machine with the remote and bleed off the pressure.

Then you push the end of the hose back through the guide and lower the hose to the ground beginning with the tip, then eventually the rest of the hose falls on top of that.

That way your tip is on the bottom of the pile and all the other hose is laying on top of it. That makes it easy to spin back on the reel.
 
tonyshelton said:
Chris, I already tried the hose reel on the basket. It was ok, but it was really heavy and maxed out the weight limiets all the time.

How about this, we're thinking about mounting a hose guide (with rollers) on the basket, AND hooking up the remote to the hose reel so we can reel it out with power.

Picture this:

You pull the hose to the bucket and run it through the hose guide.

Lift up to the roof.

Hop out of the bucket, push the remote that makes the hose reel reverse (to let hose out) and start walking.

My electric Hannay hose reel only goes in one direction with power, you probably can have it wired up with a 2-way switch but it will roll back to pull hose out, no problem and to roll up the hose, push the button. It does roll up fast! You have to be there guiding it so it does not turn into a birdnest. hahaha

Once you've got all the hose you need you hook up the gun and use the same remote to start the machine and another button to turn on the heat.

When you are done you turn off the heat and allow the water to flow through back into the tank till it cools somewhat

You need the water flowing out of the hose with the machine running to cool down the burner, when the pump is bypassing, you still have hot water in the coil, the bypass is before the coil so what is in the pump does not make it to the coil to push out the hot water unless the end of the hose is open, once the water is cool, you can kill the machine and since the ball valve is open, the pressure will be released at the same time.

After a minute or so you cut off the machine with the remote and bleed off the pressure.

Then you push the end of the hose back through the guide and lower the hose to the ground beginning with the tip, then eventually the rest of the hose falls on top of that.

If it is in the guide, you will have to pull it all back through the guide so you can unroll it. It would be better to lower it back through the guide and secure it so when you are on the ground you can get the last few feet and nozzle out of the rollers unless you want to drop it from up high.

That way your tip is on the bottom of the pile and all the other hose is laying on top of it. That makes it easy to spin back on the reel.
Click to expand...

That will not work because it is threaded through the rollers unless you can open the rollers to get the hose out.

I like the idea of rollers to control where the hose is.

What about just having a section of hose ran through the booms so you connect a section at the bucket to go onto the roof and connect from your truck to the bottom of the lift?

That way you do not have any hose that is hanging down, rubbing on anything or getting snagged on things on the way up or down.

When you are done with the hose and the machine is off, disconnect it from the basket, let it drain out for a minute with that end up higher than the rest and you can coil it up or have some brackets on the basket to coil it around and it won't be that heavy when it is empty of water.

I have some other ideas for you, will talk later when I have more time.





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Christopher said:
That will not work because it is threaded through the rollers unless you can open the rollers to get the hose out.

I like the idea of rollers to control where the hose is.

What about just having a section of hose ran through the booms so you connect a section at the bucket to go onto the roof and connect from your truck to the bottom of the lift?

That way you do not have any hose that is hanging down, rubbing on anything or getting snagged on things on the way up or down.

When you are done with the hose and the machine is off, disconnect it from the basket, let it drain out for a minute with that end up higher than the rest and you can coil it up or have some brackets on the basket to coil it around and it won't be that heavy when it is empty of water.

I have some other ideas for you, will talk later when I have more time.





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Superior Power Washing<O:p</O:p
Chris Chappell<O:p</O:p
361-853-2513<O:p</O:p
prostaff@superiorpowerwashing.com
Low Pressure Roof Cleaning in Corpus Christi Texas<O:p</O:p
Shingle Roof Washing and Tile Roof Washing in Corpus Christi Texas
Click to expand...

You're right about the burner only cooling by sending water out of the hose. I didn't know that. I looked at it wrong.

We've been dropping the hose from 2 stories and lower. We send the tip down first, that way the bulk of the hose is laying on top of the tip so it just rolls right up with the electric reel.

If you send the reel end of the hose down first, the rest of the hose lays on top of it and you have to physically take the hose and walk it out to get it out of the birdsnest you've made on the ground.

I think the easiest way to work with the roller would be to buy a roller that opens and closes with a hinge, that way you could lower down the tip and just drop the last 30 ft by unhooking the hinge at the roller.

You reverse the direction of the 12v electric reel by reversing the leads. You can make a forward and reverse switch to do this.
 
RMedbery said:
Those white split rings are called backups, they do just that, backup the o ring. Make sure when you put things back together that the backup is furthest from the pressure. When pressure gets to the o ring the o ring pushes against the backup, the backup expands filling any gap and not allowing the o ring to squeeze past which is a common failure. Youll see these in hydraulic systems all the time.
Click to expand...

Roger, I just watched all your videos. I was surprised to find out that your Avatar is not really a picture of you. All this time I thought "Roger looks a lot like Einstein". :D
 
RMedbery said:
Those white split rings are called backups, they do just that, backup the o ring. Make sure when you put things back together that the backup is furthest from the pressure. When pressure gets to the o ring the o ring pushes against the backup, the backup expands filling any gap and not allowing the o ring to squeeze past which is a common failure. Youll see these in hydraulic systems all the time.
Click to expand...

I've got an air line to the top of my lift. I was wondering why I couldn't use one of those foamers like you've got. Is that just air and detergent or air/water and detergent?
 
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