Coil

+10 Jerry
 
I think the sdc burners are rated for above 6gpm. I have found that the vertical burners get rusted out on the bottom of the housing. I think its just from the design any moisture that gets in runs to the bottom,heat and moisture equals rust. do you run burner caps that might solve some of the water down the stack problems. just a idea.
 
"There Ain't No Free Lunch" You will get what you pay for!
 
Chris Tharpe said:
Take a look at this coil. Its about 8 months old now and has quite a few hours on it but look at the inner ring. I am partictularly unhappy with this unit itself however the other PP skid i have has been great. This one has just been a demon. Motor shot first, 4-5 pressure switches, packings, coil sooted up really bad, a transformer, and now seems a solenoid is bad as well. I would love to spend another 5k on top of the 6500 to have a machine that would not always tear up. Any thoughts on a machine that will not give so many problems or do I just have the dreaded lemon
Click to expand...
Pretty ruff.Buddy of mine has a Landa.He has had it for about 12 years and no major issues at the burner. Big thing is maintenance. The more you do the less issue you have. But my opinion Jenny is the way. Just call if you want to know more about it.
Marko
 
Chris get wicker Brothers are a sheet metal shop to make you a top cover for your burner flue to keep the rain and weather out and your coil will not rust so bad around the outside .. I had one made for the whitco years ago and the coil is going on 7 years old with no problem.. I am having one made for th new machine for about 80.00 see the turbo looking thing on the whitco machine http://www.propowerwash.com/board/upload/attachment.php?attachmentid=3270&d=1118787203
 
So not all machines are made the same as some guys say... What is the maintenance on the coil that needs to be done on regular basis in order to prolong its longevity?

Another question: I have two hot water machines. One Hydrotek purchased brand new and another Landa, purchased used. I am very happy with both of them so far. I have noticed that the hydrotek blows fire through the exhaust opening of the coil, but I never see that with the Landa. Whats up with that?

Thanks!
 
It's ALL about the controls.

To have a coil last past the industry standard of 7 to 8 years..
it must have a flow switch instead of a pressure switch..
Because of unloader failures, It is too easy for the fire to be stuck on,
allowing the catastrophic failure/ coil blow-out.
The combination of a FLOW actuated unloader, and a Flow switch fuel solenoid control
makes the MOST reliable heater coils. Make sense !??

About the difference between vertical and horizontal coils and rain..
Verticals need the rain shield to keep soot from being rinsed down onto the electrode assembly,
so you have to do a tune-up every 12 months for sure.
It only takes 15 minutes, so no big deal.
E-mail me for free info on adjustments.

Horizontal coils are the ones that rust from the out-side in..
moisture that gets trapped around the bottom of the coil, in the insulation blanket holding the moisture
up against the coil. Keeping them protected from rain solves the problem here too.
I've seen the verticals and horizontals last 12 to 15 years persistently,
but ONLY with the right contols. It's ALL about the controls.

When you need to choose between Vertical 'n Horizontal..
choose the vertical for a small footprint, and easier serviceability.
and choose a horizontal for low profile..
especially for parking garages (to not set off sprinklers).

Because of our experience with long-term reliability in our heaters..
flow switches, redundant pressure controls, redundant temp controls, etc,
we've been able to see more of the longer-term issues the coils develop,
and I can't sigh-off here 'til I adress FoxSweeping's comment,
about the coils tha blow flames out the stack "mysteriously"..
We order our coils special in a particular way..
If we build all these expensive controls to inhibit the coil "blow-out", but the flame-deflector-plate
over the center of the coil erodes away, all the heat (and flame) blows right out of the stack,
instead of transferring heat to the water, like it's supposed to.
We ONLY buy coils with stainless shells,
and we have the maker double the deflector-plate oin the burner chamber-center for longer-term-rliability.
This combination WORKS.
The true path to strength, is the elimination of weakness.
Now, go back to those coil images, and look at the center baffle-plate.
Nuf Said?
 
I have some great news to report. Pressure Pro sent a brand new coil assembly to me. The replacement is such an improvement in design compred to the original one. I am thrilled and going to give it a shot in a bit to see how it works out. I also posted a photo of the old coil taken apart, the coil itself is smaller than a rats turd.
 

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no time at all, the longest part was removing the old assembly, then a bottle jack to spread apart the frame just a 1/2" or so and all bolts slid in with ease.
 
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