AAffordable
New member
I was wondering if anyone has tried the powder stuff called OXI-clean they sell it at wal-mart. Does it kill mildew? How should I mix it?
Chemical Question too!!!
- Thread starter AAffordable
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Aplus
Member
Oxiclean is comprised of 90% sodium percarbonate and 10% soda ash. I've been mixing it myself for sometime for my wife to use in the laundry and what not. It cost's less than half to make it rather than buy Oxiclean. Of course in order to get the chems cheaper you have to buy at least 50# pails.
Sodium percarbonate also happens to be the main ingrediant in many better deck cleaning preparations.
You can make your own multipurpose cleaner as follows:
80% sodium percarbonate
10% soda ash
10% sodium tripolyphosphate
I would imagine Oxiclean would somewhat work for many applications in the power washing industry, but it is too expensive for my tastes.
Sodium percarbonate also happens to be the main ingrediant in many better deck cleaning preparations.
You can make your own multipurpose cleaner as follows:
80% sodium percarbonate
10% soda ash
10% sodium tripolyphosphate
I would imagine Oxiclean would somewhat work for many applications in the power washing industry, but it is too expensive for my tastes.
Aplus
Member
Regarding whether OxiClean kills mildew. I honestly don't know, I've never tried it for that. I mentioned that I make my own cleaning brew, but again, I've not encountered a mildew problem on the decks I've used it on. My gut feeling is that since sodium percarbonate is described as oxygenated bleach, then yes, it should kill mildew.
I also think that an important ingrediant for cleaning wood is missing from OxiClean, and that is a detergent. That is where the sodium tripolyphosphate comes in.
Perhaps if you mixed up the OxiClean and added a cup of Tide..... that would help, but for me, I prefer mixing my chems from scratch. And I've tried alot of different formulations to find out what works best for me.
Good luck.
I also think that an important ingrediant for cleaning wood is missing from OxiClean, and that is a detergent. That is where the sodium tripolyphosphate comes in.
Perhaps if you mixed up the OxiClean and added a cup of Tide..... that would help, but for me, I prefer mixing my chems from scratch. And I've tried alot of different formulations to find out what works best for me.
Good luck.
Your key ingredient is sodium percarbonate - it's a stain remover, deoderizer and kills mildew.
Na5 P3 O10 is often used as a defloculating agent in detergents.
I would say that in the mix of things it's most likely used as water softening agent so rinsing gets to be a bit easier.
Normally packaging containers are more expensive than the products contained in them. Shipping and advertising are the other 2 big cost items.
Soda Ash - that's a name of a band on the west coast isn't it?
Regards,
Na5 P3 O10 is often used as a defloculating agent in detergents.
I would say that in the mix of things it's most likely used as water softening agent so rinsing gets to be a bit easier.
Normally packaging containers are more expensive than the products contained in them. Shipping and advertising are the other 2 big cost items.
Soda Ash - that's a name of a band on the west coast isn't it?
Regards,
Aplus
Member
Paul,
Soda Ash, aka Sodium Carbonate, (CNa 2 03) is found in many commercially prepared cleaners for wood and concrete. I add it to my mix to give a little more kick to the sodium percarbonate.
I have also been thinking about adding sodium lauryl sulfate to create a little more foaming action. Come to think of it, sodium lauryl sulfate would be the perfect addition to a house wash mix.
Soda Ash, aka Sodium Carbonate, (CNa 2 03) is found in many commercially prepared cleaners for wood and concrete. I add it to my mix to give a little more kick to the sodium percarbonate.
I have also been thinking about adding sodium lauryl sulfate to create a little more foaming action. Come to think of it, sodium lauryl sulfate would be the perfect addition to a house wash mix.
paul b
im pretty sure soda ash is used as a safer replacement for a caustic, it can be used to adj. PH also. I also believe it helps break down wood fibers. The 80-10-10 mix is pretty close to the EFC38 that is used as a cleaner and for decks[light stripper].
I know the bulk of soda ash is used in making flat glass.
im pretty sure soda ash is used as a safer replacement for a caustic, it can be used to adj. PH also. I also believe it helps break down wood fibers. The 80-10-10 mix is pretty close to the EFC38 that is used as a cleaner and for decks[light stripper].
I know the bulk of soda ash is used in making flat glass.
Aplus
Member
Paul,
First, let me explain how soda ash became part of my mix.
Two years ago, I obtained 3 wooden pallets. I washed them with the store bought products I was using at the time. After drying, I stained two of them with common semitransparant stains. The third one I left plain.
I put the three pallets out behind my shed, and let them sit thru an entire season. After a year of weathering, I set out to find my own chems that would clean the pallets the best for a reasonable cost.
After checking out some of the commercially prepared products, I noticed that sodium carbonate (soda ash) was a typical ingrediant. I also found a couple recipes at a chemical suppliers' website to substantiate that.
I tried pure sodium percarbonate, and it did clean, but not as well as some commercially prepared products. I then added soda ash, and the mix seemed to work even better. Then I thought a little detergent would help to lift and float off the dirt better, so I added sodium tripolyphosphate.
I experimented with several different formulations and found the 80-10-10 seemed to work the best. When this mix is applied, it actually fizzes and seems to lift the dirt right up and out.
I'm not a scientist, I have no real laboratory data to boast of, I just tried different formulas until I found one that worked for me.
So I don't know exactly what the hell soda ash does for a fact, but I know that it makes my mix work faster. And I also know that none of the chems I use are carcinogenic or particulary toxic. In fact, this recipe will work as well as most any commercially prepared product.
If I were going to market a product, then I would make it a priority to know exactly what each chemical does, but at this point, all I care about is that I've got a mix that works really well.
If you want to use it, feel free, that's why I posted the recipe.
I think many folks will agree that commercially prepared chems add a significant cost to doing a job. By buying the ingrediants in bulk and mixing myself, I've reduced my chem costs significantly.
The only product I buy ready made, and have no plans to change, is HD-80. It works so well, and in my opinion is cost effective enough that I don't have to worry about it. Plus, I really don't want to mess around blending caustic soda beads and the like, which are corrosive and fairly toxic in higher concentrations, not to mention the hazmat shipping requirements when ordering the raw products.
My .02....
First, let me explain how soda ash became part of my mix.
Two years ago, I obtained 3 wooden pallets. I washed them with the store bought products I was using at the time. After drying, I stained two of them with common semitransparant stains. The third one I left plain.
I put the three pallets out behind my shed, and let them sit thru an entire season. After a year of weathering, I set out to find my own chems that would clean the pallets the best for a reasonable cost.
After checking out some of the commercially prepared products, I noticed that sodium carbonate (soda ash) was a typical ingrediant. I also found a couple recipes at a chemical suppliers' website to substantiate that.
I tried pure sodium percarbonate, and it did clean, but not as well as some commercially prepared products. I then added soda ash, and the mix seemed to work even better. Then I thought a little detergent would help to lift and float off the dirt better, so I added sodium tripolyphosphate.
I experimented with several different formulations and found the 80-10-10 seemed to work the best. When this mix is applied, it actually fizzes and seems to lift the dirt right up and out.
I'm not a scientist, I have no real laboratory data to boast of, I just tried different formulas until I found one that worked for me.
So I don't know exactly what the hell soda ash does for a fact, but I know that it makes my mix work faster. And I also know that none of the chems I use are carcinogenic or particulary toxic. In fact, this recipe will work as well as most any commercially prepared product.
If I were going to market a product, then I would make it a priority to know exactly what each chemical does, but at this point, all I care about is that I've got a mix that works really well.
If you want to use it, feel free, that's why I posted the recipe.
I think many folks will agree that commercially prepared chems add a significant cost to doing a job. By buying the ingrediants in bulk and mixing myself, I've reduced my chem costs significantly.
The only product I buy ready made, and have no plans to change, is HD-80. It works so well, and in my opinion is cost effective enough that I don't have to worry about it. Plus, I really don't want to mess around blending caustic soda beads and the like, which are corrosive and fairly toxic in higher concentrations, not to mention the hazmat shipping requirements when ordering the raw products.
My .02....
Tony,
All you had to say was "I don't know" ...it's nothing to be ashamed of. We'll learn together (if you're interested) when someone else tells us - if not, I'll keep looking other places.
The rest of your post is informative - Thank you!
I was interested in knowing what would/might change if soda ash was increased or decreased (20% - 5%).
Regards,
All you had to say was "I don't know" ...it's nothing to be ashamed of. We'll learn together (if you're interested) when someone else tells us - if not, I'll keep looking other places.
The rest of your post is informative - Thank you!
I was interested in knowing what would/might change if soda ash was increased or decreased (20% - 5%).
Regards,
Aplus
Member
Paul,
I'm not embarrassed one bit, why should I be?
I don't have a lab, or employ a chemist, and I don't have titration information. Developed by trial and error in my garage and backyard, I use some home brews that get the job done very well. And as Ike says... It doesn't burn your skin off.
And I did say "I don't know" regarding soda ash. I tried to briefly explain the processes I used to test and develop the recipe, before taking it out to the field.
Increasing the soda ash level made the mix too strong for general cleaning, and more like a mild stripper. Sodium Percarbonate alone acted as a bleach/brightener, but didn't seem to have much effect on dirt.
Perhaps Russell or Steven can help explain what soda ash brings to the table.
I'm not embarrassed one bit, why should I be?
I don't have a lab, or employ a chemist, and I don't have titration information. Developed by trial and error in my garage and backyard, I use some home brews that get the job done very well. And as Ike says... It doesn't burn your skin off.
And I did say "I don't know" regarding soda ash. I tried to briefly explain the processes I used to test and develop the recipe, before taking it out to the field.
Increasing the soda ash level made the mix too strong for general cleaning, and more like a mild stripper. Sodium Percarbonate alone acted as a bleach/brightener, but didn't seem to have much effect on dirt.
Perhaps Russell or Steven can help explain what soda ash brings to the table.
I'm not implying you should be ashamed of not knowing it. Your comment: "So I don't know exactly what the hell soda ash does for a fact, ..." made you sound defensive. That's all.
Your initial statement caught my attention:
"Oxiclean is comprised of 90% sodium percarbonate and 10% soda ash. I've been mixing it myself for sometime for my wife to use in the laundry and what not."
I was interested in knowing how the same mix can be used for cleaning clothes and wood decks. That's why I asked what feature Soda Ash brought to the table.
Can you expand on how you mix the final product for deck cleaner (how much powder you put in each gallon of water and is it a cold or warm water mix?)
I did some other research and here is what I found out about Soda Ash:
In water treatment, Soda Ash helps control PH level & softens water. (Sounds like the same thing Ron was saying.) In Powdered Laundry Detergent, it conditions the water and carries the soap ingredients that make the product perform.
Sodium Tripolyphosphate:
Chiefly used as a water softener, sequestering agent, and defloculating agent in detergent industry.
In Dishwater Detergents: Softens water, suspends soil, and serves as an anti-spotting agent.
In Car Wash Detergents: Softens water, removes soil, and keeps soil from redepositing.
In Cooked Ham: Retains moisture and preserves flavor.
It's also used in the US at .25% level as a pork tenderizer and being tested for beef tenderizer.
In Heavy Duty Cleaners: Removes oils and greases.
In Industrial Cleaners: Softens water, suspends oils, and keeps them from redepositing.
Hmmm! Ike may have something there.
Regards,
Your initial statement caught my attention:
"Oxiclean is comprised of 90% sodium percarbonate and 10% soda ash. I've been mixing it myself for sometime for my wife to use in the laundry and what not."
I was interested in knowing how the same mix can be used for cleaning clothes and wood decks. That's why I asked what feature Soda Ash brought to the table.
Can you expand on how you mix the final product for deck cleaner (how much powder you put in each gallon of water and is it a cold or warm water mix?)
I did some other research and here is what I found out about Soda Ash:
In water treatment, Soda Ash helps control PH level & softens water. (Sounds like the same thing Ron was saying.) In Powdered Laundry Detergent, it conditions the water and carries the soap ingredients that make the product perform.
Sodium Tripolyphosphate:
Chiefly used as a water softener, sequestering agent, and defloculating agent in detergent industry.
In Dishwater Detergents: Softens water, suspends soil, and serves as an anti-spotting agent.
In Car Wash Detergents: Softens water, removes soil, and keeps soil from redepositing.
In Cooked Ham: Retains moisture and preserves flavor.
It's also used in the US at .25% level as a pork tenderizer and being tested for beef tenderizer.
In Heavy Duty Cleaners: Removes oils and greases.
In Industrial Cleaners: Softens water, suspends oils, and keeps them from redepositing.
Hmmm! Ike may have something there.
Regards,
P&E Powerwash
New member
MY last job before I went full time powerwashing was blending the oxi clen and packaging for stores. Oxi clean as a new product was 90% sodium percarbonate and 10% soda ash. As people got hook on the product it went 70% sodium percarbonat to 30% soda ash. They say the soda ash is a cleaner but basic thing to is keep cost down and it's mostly a filler. I have used it on decks for several years it does a nice job of thaking off midew.
Aplus
Member
Paul,
I know it sounds strange that a product that cleans laundry can also clean wood decks, but it is true. In fact there are recipes available for cleaning concrete as well.
Maybe the water softening properties of soda ash are what benefit me the most. The water in Detroit area tends to be hard, so perhaps the soda ash acts as more of a "conditioner" allowing the percarb to work better. Maybe soda ash even has a place in a house wash mix as well.
I mix my chems using measuring cups, not by weight. That is the fastest way for me when in the field. I mix one cup per two gallons of water.
It is preferable to mix with warm water. With cold water, there is only partial dilution. It reminds me of mixing sugar into a glass of cold ice tea....when you stir it, you can see the undisolved sugar swirling around. Same effect.
When mixed cold, it does not apply well thru a pump-up sprayer, it clogs the spray tips. Warm water dissolves better and sprays fine with a pump-up. The 60 psi sureflow setup I have will spray either way with no problem.
A 10-20 minute dwell time works well. When mixed with water, there is a fizzing effect thats good for about 15-20 minutes. It's similar to the fizzing action from an Efferdent tablet. That is the cleaning time, after that the mix doesn't have much kick.
It will remove mill glaze, many failed clear sealers, and some semi transparents.
Thats it.
I know it sounds strange that a product that cleans laundry can also clean wood decks, but it is true. In fact there are recipes available for cleaning concrete as well.
Maybe the water softening properties of soda ash are what benefit me the most. The water in Detroit area tends to be hard, so perhaps the soda ash acts as more of a "conditioner" allowing the percarb to work better. Maybe soda ash even has a place in a house wash mix as well.
I mix my chems using measuring cups, not by weight. That is the fastest way for me when in the field. I mix one cup per two gallons of water.
It is preferable to mix with warm water. With cold water, there is only partial dilution. It reminds me of mixing sugar into a glass of cold ice tea....when you stir it, you can see the undisolved sugar swirling around. Same effect.
When mixed cold, it does not apply well thru a pump-up sprayer, it clogs the spray tips. Warm water dissolves better and sprays fine with a pump-up. The 60 psi sureflow setup I have will spray either way with no problem.
A 10-20 minute dwell time works well. When mixed with water, there is a fizzing effect thats good for about 15-20 minutes. It's similar to the fizzing action from an Efferdent tablet. That is the cleaning time, after that the mix doesn't have much kick.
It will remove mill glaze, many failed clear sealers, and some semi transparents.
Thats it.
i missed this thread...
Any of these Guys in Business?