Everyone of your competitors here has an "investment" into the chemicals they use.
A veteran won't post "openly" on this thread.
Which chemicals you use, after the weeks (turning into months) you invest in them,
will be a closely guarded secret from your competition.
The chemical salesmen that read this blog CRINGE when they see these threads.
..they make LOTS of money on the water they add to those drums and jugs.
(I build equipment, so I don't care.)
I also feel that an honest question deserves an honest answer,
without damaging anyone in this community.
I also feel strongly, that this community has a responsibility to NOT allow
a newbe to be misinformed, nor left to "wander",
which adds to the already damages customer-base..
there's more than enough Muriatic Acid stains around the county. Eh?
Anyway.. there's more than one way to "skin a cat"..
you need to get to know the tools FIRST..
HOW chemicals WORK is you first training..
degreaser don't work the same way..
solvents penetrate, and "blend-with" the grease.
Solvents with surfactant help to rinse it away with water.
Bad news is.. most solvents are now banned,
and they make it impossible for an OWS to work in a recycling system.
Alkalines "eat" grease n grime like an acid has an etching action
that works faster with heat and agitation.
Good news.. you can "spike" an alkaline with hydrophillic solvents,
like adding adding whiskey in you meat tenderizer.
Sodium Hydroxide is the strongest alkaline,
potassiun hydroxide is next, then Sodium metasilicate.
..as we choose from "affordable materials".
add a surfactant to the alkaline,
like adding dish-soap to your waterless hand-cleaner
to make it mix with water faster, and aid in penetration.
More good news.. from the citrus-pulp industry..
D-Limonene is an AMAZING penetrant-degreaser additive,
is is "Enviro-acceptable" more that most solvents,
and it doesn't take much to get the desirred effect.
Now I'm going to upset the chemical salesmen..
HEAT is you BEST friend in MINIMIZING the need for chemicals.
and DON'T mistake the need for chemical-action,
when you are trying to remove something that is "stuck" to the surface..
rubber tire marks are "debris stuck-to the surface"
use pressure, add heat for faster separation of teh debris. (..and NO soap !)
grease on a parking lot is different..
choose an alkaline, ann surffactant,
and in a kitchen, where grease is more complex a problem..
add the D-Limonene, since Butyl is frowned-upon around food-product, and confined spaces.
In a warehouse, it's no holds barred..
Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide), Butyl Cellosolve, D-Limonene,
Heat and pressure.
the more heat and pressure you use, the less you will spend on chemicals.
Now, remember..
I build the reclaim equipment, so consult an equipment specialist,
before you damage your equipment.
Your quest, is to understand "the tools",
not to see if a competitor is stupid enough to giveaway his "edge" over his competition.
Now, after all that..
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MIX ANY CHEMICALS,
without getting "mixing instructions" from your local chemical supplier.
IT CAN BE DANGEROUS !!!
..You will be surprixed at how many "smart-guys" have mixed too quickly,
or without gloves AND faceshields, that regreted it later.
CHemical salesmen are usually trained to sell these chemicals, but they don't TRY to teach you.
THe bulk-chemical suppliers will make you sign for an MSDS, but they don't "carre" to explain BMP's to a newbe.
Confused ??
THAT's why I recommend you "respect a tech"...
Find a technical-guy that can help you locally,
or call us for a referreal.