Bypass Dump

B

beyoungsr

New member
My intentions here are to ask a question and to jump start this part of the board.

I do not use a water tank. We always have plenty of water available.

I want the benefit of having the unloader dumping water in bypass. This will keep the pump cool indefinately by only allowing fresh water to enter the pump.

I will install a tee at the unloader bypass port.

On one end of the tee I will install a 4.0 gpm s.s. check valve. The check valve will have an elbow and hose barb attached to it. The hose barb will have a small piece of hose that will leads down to the ground.

On the other end of the tee I will attach the standard bypass hose running to the inlet water supply.

What should now happen is as the unloader goes into bypass the check valve will open and discharge a portion of water flow to the ground.

When washing resumes the check valve will close and normal operation resumes. I will still have a small percentage of water(5%) in bypass all the time. This takes place regardless.


I will let you guys know how it works out. May take a little adjusting but should work.

Others are doing this with three way ball valves.
 
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This modification did not work.

I will have to purchase some larger check valves.

Tried using some that were given to me. Thought they were rated to 4.0 gpm. Never would close.

Oh well back too the drawing board.

Mike,
Can this post be moved to the equipment help area????

That is where I thought I posted it.
 
in the bypass line add a tee
on the tee add a langth of hose
on that hose add a simple ball valve
From the other end of the ball valve run it to the ground.
Open the ball valve enuff to get fresh water into the system but not cycle the unloader.
If your a little crazy?
remove the damn unloader and run a open gun.
You will wash faster, never overheat the pump and cut cost's from not haveing to buy another unloader.
Then you can remove your pressure switch and flow switch.
A motor,pump and burner.
Nothing to go wrong. cept the part's listed.
NOT RECCOMENED, NOR ENDORSED BY ANYONE.
If all i washed were fleet's and had all the water i needed.
I would do it this way.
You can duct tape a reg ol exstension cord to the pressure line and put a switch on the trigger gun to turn the heat off and on.
Also to turn soap off and on if you install a simple selonoid.
HOW CRAZY DO YOU WANT TO GET!!!!!
I CAN MAKE A CAR OUT OF A LAWN MOWER AND LAWN CHAIR IF YOU WANT.
just funnin ya.
No check valve need to get fresh supply of water and cool pump.
Just a dump valve
You wont even need a dump valve if you can get a TEE that has 3/8ths end's and a 1/4 in the middle.
Cost about 65 cent's.
 
Ron,

Yeah I know about adding the tee and ball valve.

I was trying to get to something that would be a positive automatic shut off.

The bypass always has 5% (mine)coming off it at all times.

While this works ok in bypass once you engauge full pressure, you still have the same volume of fresh water discharging.

The only way to stop this is to close the ball valve.

I have alreay tried that and it was not what I was looking for.

Thanks for the input though.
 
Squirtgun,
No tank used. That would make it easy All equipment is portable.

Might end up getting some 15 gallon drums for wash mix.

I could quick connect bypass to the bottom of the tanks for agitation of wash mix.
 
Squirtgun,
I think any idea is worth listening to at least once.

I like anything that will make work easier or prolong equiptment life.

I still have a remote control from a ceiling fan to try on my 110v burner.

In most of my scenarios hot water is not necessary for wash down.

Would like to be able to cut burner on and off remotely. Don't have the bucks to buy the off the shelf controls.
 
bypass

B.E,
The idea I have is a 15gal tank mounted on a wagon, mount the drum on a heavy duty wagon(one with pnuematic tires)I see them around here for about $85,they have high sides and are made of metal.
A couple of 3/4" fittings to put in the bungs on the top and bottome of the tank(for water into tank,and water out to pump),and a 3/4" hose barb to mount near the top of the drum.Connect the unloader bypass line at the pump and run it back to the hose barb.There is no real pressure on the bypass line so a hose clamp may not be needed.
I tried to draw a picture maybe you can figure out what I'm trying to describe.

I have heard of guy using remote car starter for turning their machines on and off,I think northern tool has some for around $80.Never considered a ceiling fan remote,good idea.
 

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Squirtgun,
Thanks for the drawing and idea.

The only problem I see would be I have 8.0 gpm input and 4.0 gpm output.

If I didn't throttle back the incoming water supply the tank would be full in 4.0 minutes. This does not include the bypass water.
 
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the remote for the ceiling fan will work fine for about 25 ft then no good. If you can see the wash unit from 10 ft it wont work.
Just dont want you to waste your time.
No range and need line of site. Their would be no need to have cieling fan remote that can work thru wall's.
You can buy cheap celanoid's[car door popper's] and cheap car alarm remote system's on ebay for less then $65 but they only have a 75 ft range.
Hard wired with the exstension cord will work and is not hard to do.
 
If you want to bypass to the ground, just put a long bypass line on your unloader and plug off the bypass port on your pump inlet. No air gets in the pump and your bypass discharges on the ground.
 
Got this figured out now!

Squirtgun,
Thanks for the input and keeping me thinking!

Ron,
We have talked back and forth about the burner remote for a year now. I may go ahead and try the fan remote using a light to test the range. Don't have anything to loose.
I also have a 12v alarm kit. The burner is presently configured for 110v but I have a spare 12v burner I can switch out. Would have to purchase a cadium cell though.
Thank you for your input.

Russ,
Thank you for confirming my thoughts later this afternoon. I was planning to do exactly as you suggested.
I will put a q.c. coupler on the end of a lenth of bypass hose.
Will take a new five gallon bucket and install a plug in the lid.
This will proved me with approximately 25 minutes of bypass time based on bypassing 5%(25.6 oz) a minute.
This should be more than enough for most jobs.
When the job is complete I will use the five gallons of water to clean my injector. No waste!

Mike,
Thanks for the input but I don't know how I would install a float in a 15 gallon closed top drum. My hands are way to big for those holes!

Thanks guys! Life is good!

This modification will provide some cheap insurance for my pumps !
 
Cut a hole in the top of the drum, get a float kit, install same.
Route bypass hose to drum/water tank. no check valves, no ball valves ,no water on ground, no wagon, no starving of pump. Install a drain hose w/ ball valve. looks more professiional and works.

Douglas Hicks
General Fire Equipment of Eastern Oregon, Inc
 
Thanks for the reply Douglas.

May be the way I end up having to go.

Running bypass to the ground will waste to much water
 
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