Brass vs. Nickel Pump Head

David I have a packing pump puller and I think Mike B has one to. But I am not to sure if that is what is needed.
To me it sounds like the unloader. I have some old ones hanging around that were leaking if you want one to test. But they are 3/8 not 1/2

I also just change my pump out. Very easy, 4bolts and a allen.

Be careful if you test the pump out without the unloader. If done wrong it sounds like it could hurt.
 
Squirtgun said:
David order the pump rebuild kit and a new unloader and pull that thing up here to south Ga I will help you with it.
I know it's about a 4 hour drive,but I work for free.
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Scott, thanks for the offer!!! If you were a little closer, I would take you up on it. I am going to try to replace the packings and seals -- as I believe this has to be the cause. The check valves and o-rings are good. My K-10 is brand new and will try it first but will look into the KZ1. Thanks again.
 
scottwash said:
David I have a packing pump puller and I think Mike B has one to. But I am not to sure if that is what is needed.
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Scott, thanks for the offer. I may call you after I get the parts as I don't have any of the needed items -- packing extractor or insertion kit. I may order the insertion kit.
 
You just said you spent $200 to have it rebuilt, why would you rebuild it again? That might lead me to believe that it might be something else. The tightness of the belts may be fine, not remembering what kind of belt you have on there but it may be slipping regardless of how it "feels" I would be a $20 belt and switch it out, they do go bad and the unit is 2 years old.

Worst Case Scenario....Why not buy a NEW pump, replacing the pump in question and then rebuild the old one (if that is what needs to happen)
 
HighTide said:
Scott, thanks for the offer. I may call you after I get the parts as I don't have any of the needed items -- packing extractor or insertion kit. I may order the insertion kit.
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A rebuild can be done without the tools I did mine without them.I'm very hands on with our machine,but not sure I would be a lot of help over phone.
Russ Johnson is the GURU when it comes to over the phone repairs.I think it's
$25 for answers and $50 for correct answers.......:lmao:
 
I think the k-10 and k-1 are the same unloader. They didn't run well for me but I was pushing 10 gpm. I know the k-1 (10) says its for 2 all the way to 10 gal, the k-7 have different flow ranges.
 
The K1 and K10 are the same unloader just renamed something different from other vendors. I agree with the K7 that is my choice as well.

You can do the rebuild without the insertion or extractor kit but they do make the job easier. If you follow the instructions on the link that was posted earlier it is fairly easy to do. However if your pump was just re packed 2 months ago I would check a few other things to solve the problem.

First if the belts are 2 years old try changing them out they may look good but they could still be slipping. Also check the rpm on the motor it is possible it may need a tune up or the throttle setting may have changed from being bumped or from vibration.

If the unloader is spiking to 4000+psi when you let off the trigger it needs to be readjusted or replaced because each time you let off the trigger you are over pressurizing that pump which would explain why the packings are wearing out so fast. You may want to check the unloader check valve. On the outlet of the unloader you remove the fitting and there is also a check valve with a spring and o ring on it if the oring is worn or gone then the valve does not seat correctly. When this happens the unloader does not go into bypass properly which would also destroy your packings fast. From what you have posted I am sure the unloader is part of the problem.

Remember an unloader does nothing to create pressure it is just a regulating device that determines at what psi the water goes into bypass. If you set it at 4-5000 psi the pump will have to build to that level before it unloads into bypass mode. This means a pump that is rated for 3000 psi has to produce pressures way over its rated specs which causes damage to the packings and other parts over time.
 
Paul Kassander said:
First if the belts are 2 years old try changing them out they may look good but they could still be slipping. Also check the rpm on the motor it is possible it may need a tune up or the throttle setting may have changed from being bumped or from vibration.

If the unloader is spiking to 4000+psi when you let off the trigger it needs to be readjusted or replaced because each time you let off the trigger you are over pressurizing that pump which would explain why the packings are wearing out so fast. You may want to check the unloader check valve. On the outlet of the unloader you remove the fitting and there is also a check valve with a spring and o ring on it if the oring is worn or gone then the valve does not seat correctly. When this happens the unloader does not go into bypass properly which would also destroy your packings fast. From what you have posted I am sure the unloader is part of the problem.

Remember an unloader does nothing to create pressure it is just a regulating device that determines at what psi the water goes into bypass. If you set it at 4-5000 psi the pump will have to build to that level before it unloads into bypass mode. This means a pump that is rated for 3000 psi has to produce pressures way over its rated specs which causes damage to the packings and other parts over time.
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Paul, you may have found my problem. I was having a hard time getting anything close to 3,000 psi to my surface cleaner 3 weeks ago. I tightened up the green spring unloader until I got close to 3,000. But when trigger closed, it spiked to over 4,500 which is where I operated at for a week. It sounds like I may have damaged my packings. Will change out both belts as well. My unloader was recently adjusted by the local pro, but now only produces 2,100 psi with the correct tips (that spikes to 3,500). I dropped down to the 25020 tips to get a little more pressure now for surface cleaner. Thanks!
 
David, where is your pressure gauge, before the unloader or after the unloader?

How many feet of hose are you using with your surface cleaner?

What size pressure hose are you using? 3/8"? 1/2"?

I would not use the 25020 nozzles with your surface cleaner as it is making you bypass water as you will not flow more than 5gpm through those small nozzles causing your surface cleaner to not perform like it should.

My machine is a Hotsy making 5.6gpm and 3000psi so I would use a 6.5 nozzle on the wand or 2 of the 3.0 nozzles in the surface cleaner.

Running the smaller nozzles will make you work slower with a 24" surface cleaner.

Call Russ J. and he will explain all of this to you.

Good Luck.

You will lose about 134psi for every 100' of 3/8" hose.
 
I have a gauge mounted on the top middle valve of my pump and another one mounted at the end of the 4-foot jumper hose that comes off the unloader before its attached to 200 feet of new 3/8" Goodyear 4500 psi R-2 hose. I currently have the hot water coils bypassed as it has a blown hole in it that I will have welded next week. I was told that since I am unable to reach anywhere near 3,000 psi at my surface cleaner with my normal dual 2503 nozzles, to drop down to 25025 and it will increase my psi -- which it did a little. I either need to rebuilt the pump again or just buy a new one (leaning towards a new one). I am just swamped with business until Christmas Eve, fortunately all houses which is low pressure washing. I will take the week after Christmas off for maintenance and some R&R with the family. Anyone know the best place to buy belts for the 18 hp Vanguard? Thanks.
 
David, I could be wrong but I have always been told that the pressure gauge should be on the outlet of the pump before the unloader, in the middle of the pump might not show the actual pressure that comes out. I would move the gauge to the outlet of the pump before the unloader.

Losing 134psi per 100' of hose, you will lose about 268psi before the surface cleaner. Since you are losing pressure, I am not sure that you will build pressure with smaller nozzles as the pump will only make so much pressure. Give Russ J. at Southside Equipment a call and he will explain it to you.

Take one of the belts off the machine and take it with you, just about any auto parts store can sell you a couple of belts.
 
The gauge can be mounted anywhere on the discharge side of the pump and they make valve caps with holes in them for that purpose. The pressure is equal throughout the high pressure side.

Don't get automotive belts. The pitch angle is different from utility belts. For maximum grip, I suggest you go to a power transmission store or Graingers and get "BX" series belts. Those are the ones with the raw notched driving faces. If you have trouble finding them locally, you can call me with the numbers off them and I can get them for you.
 
Just put on a brand new TS2021B pump, new K-7 unloader and two new BX-42 belts. Also, replaced inlet hose from tank to pump and installed a new dump valve on rear-bottom of tank to quickly dump any water in my 325 gallon tank. Cleaned out Hudson float valve so it works perfectly again. FINALLY, I have 3,500 working psi again and ready to take on 40,000 s.f. of high school concrete next weekend.

Thanks Mike Barrett for all your help! Any reason to save the old pump?
 
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