Battery/Burner question

oneness

oneness

Member
Hey Wiz!

I'm having a problem with my burner, and I'm suspecting that my washer isn't charging my battery. I will fire the burner up, and get hot water for a short time, after which the blower runs, but the burner won't fire. If I charge the battery overnight, I get better results, and to be honest have not tested it at length. I'm going to be messing with it in the next day or so, and thought I'd see what tips you can give me to look for. As a starting point, I'll be putting a meter on the battery while the washer is running to see what kind of voltage I'm getting into the battery.
 
Are you using a deep cycle battery? If so replace it now with a regular battery. We suggest using a garden tractor battery because if the system is designed properly there is more than enough charging capacity from the proper engine to keep everything running correctly.

Are you starting to get dirty lights and shutdowns? Is the unit still burning clean? Are you ONLY running at Wide Open Throttle?

ALL 12V systems are designed to run only at WOT, if you need to reduce pressure then put a larger nozzle in.

If you are still not having any luck then let me know and I will get in touch with our tech guys and see what else we can suggest.

Hope this heplps? Cheers.
 
Not sure on the battery, I'll check. I assume it is the original battery that came with the unit, since it had very low hours when I purchased it used (140 hours).

Yes, running at WOT only. Not sure whether the burner is runing clean, I'll be playing around with it later today. I've not been in a situation where I needed hot water yet, so I have not taken the time to trouble shoot this problem. As a result, I've not run the burner more than a few minutes since I bought the machine. It is a Tuff 3000psi 5.6gpm machine, came from Espec.

The other problem is that the burner light isn't lighting at all, though I am getting hot water at least for a short time. I replaced the light and the switch (switch was broken) but still no light. Should the light be coming on when the blower is running, or only when the burner is ignited? Either way, the light doesn't come on at all right now.

Thanks for the pointers, I'll see what I can figure out tonight.
 
Ok....

The battery is fine, the system is charging just fine...Battery is holding 12.6 volts when not running, 13.6 or so when running. The problem is somewhere in the burner system.

The light works fine most of the time when the blower is running. However, this is what it is doing. I fired up the machine and threw the switch for the burner. Just a touch of sooty smoke from the stack for a moment, and then just hot exhaust...for about 5 seconds. Then the burner shuts off. The blower runs for another 10 or 15 seconds and then shuts off.

If I turn the key to on on the machine, but don't start it, and then throw the blower switch, the blower will run for maybe 20 or 30 seconds, then shut off. It will then come on and go off intermittently for another minute or so, then not come on at all. If I turn the key off and leave it for a minute or so, then turn it back on and throw the burner switch, the blower will do the exact same thing, on for 20 seconds or so and then intermittently a few times. Checked voltage at the battery throughout this process and it held at over 12 volts.

The previous owner has done some wiring modification, as shown in the picture. Not sure what this wiring does...someone here may have an idea. The two wires you see in the picture bolted to the studs read 12.x volts when the burner isn't on....but when the blower is running it reads .08 volts or so. I did disconnect this and cleaned the contacts. Checked the wired in fuse also.

Any suggestions? I opened up the junction box, as shown in the 2nd picture, and I have no idea where to even start in checking for problems here.
 

Attachments

  • p8070001.jpg
    p8070001.jpg
    86.4 KB · Views: 90
All of the manufactures that I deal with suggest DEEP CELL batteries. I don't know why EPPS would disagree with the big players in the field but there must be some reason. Besides that here is what I would do.
Check all associated parts of the burner seperately and out of the machine. That includes the transformer. (CAUTION when checking the transformer out of the machine with out a running fan for more than 10 seconds will dammage a good transformer.) If you can not pull an ark at least half way across the high voltage terminals replace the transformer.
If your machine is equipped with a Cadium Sulfide Cell or Electronic Eye, Make sure it is cleaned. The circuit board for those are usually the first component to go.
Check all associated control devices. Flow switch, pressure switch, vacuum switch, Temp switch, thermostat ect. Check the brushes in the DC Motor for extreme wear If you need new brushes your local rental yard may have sime that will substitute. They use them in Drills and Saws Ect.
Check the fuel filters and fuel pressure on the fuel pump 100 psi min to 150 max. Fuel will not atomize much lower than 100 psi.
Here is a simple diagram that will work if you need to rewire your machine.
 

Attachments

  • gasoline 12v burner wiring.jpg
    gasoline 12v burner wiring.jpg
    33.4 KB · Views: 96
Last edited:
keep it simple.
replace the fuel filter before doing anything else.
you have let fuel sit in it for month's.
 
In your second pic, there is a little box mounted on your electrical junction box with 2 studs sticking up. This is a circuit breaker. Start the burner up and wait for it to shut down. As soon as it does, jump the terminals with a screwdriver. If the burner starts right back up, you've found your problem. Go to AutoZone and buy an in line fuse holder for the spade type fuses and a 25 amp circuit breaker (should be right in the same section of the store). Cut the terminals off the wires on your machine and butt connect the fuse holder in the line. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
He is right on the breaker and the fuel filter. Don't overlook the filter inside of the fuel pump. I would try the simple things first then if you need to go into a deep repair you can do what we suggested. That wiring can get complicated and most of the time a simple problem has a simple solution.
 
Remove the one and install the other.
 
Well, it was the circuit breaker. Replaced it this morning and had hot water all day!

Why would you replace the circuit breaker with a fuse holder? What's the benefit?

Thanks, guys, for all the help! Glad it was a simple fix...The closest place I could take it for repairs is almost two hours away, and I wasn't looking forward to spending the money.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top