Alcoa 5.5 GPM HOT/COLD Skid with 20Honda Motor Will Not Start

Take the hose off from the fuel pump going into the carburetor. Turn on the key. If there is fuel coming out, it is likely the solenoid, which is under the carb. It could be sticking and needs to be cleaned or replaced. The solenoid is the thing with a wire coming out of the bottom of the carb, and running down the side of the engine.
 
So,
this has been going on for 3 weeks now..
Is there no tech in your area you can trust ??
..really ??

Call me and let's get this over with.

Then, come to one of my Pressure washer troubleshooting classes. :{)
 
It is really sad but there are not too many folks out here who are knowledgeable enough to fix hondas. I would need to travel to Atlanta some 2.5 hours to get help. Cannot even get parts over here.

Sirocco Jerry said:
So,
this has been going on for 3 weeks now..
Is there no tech in your area you can trust ??
..really ??

Call me and let's get this over with.

Then, come to one of my Pressure washer troubleshooting classes. :{)
Click to expand...
 
Scott Stone said:
Take the hose off from the fuel pump going into the carburetor. Turn on the key. If there is fuel coming out, it is likely the solenoid, which is under the carb. It could be sticking and needs to be cleaned or replaced. The solenoid is the thing with a wire coming out of the bottom of the carb, and running down the side of the engine.
Click to expand...

This actually just happened to me. Bought a new rig and couldn't get it to start. It would fire off with stating fluid but no gas getting to carb. Prob was fuel solenoid sticking. Took it off cleaned it up, and motor fired right up.

I can't strip a motor down and rebuild it, but having simple and basic knowledge of your equipment will save down time and money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Worst case scenario is I mess up the carb and end of buying a new one...I will take it apart and clean it...maybe inspect solenoid while I am it...The motor does start and remains running, it just lugs when I put some load on it; however, it does not shutoff instead it revs up nicely afterwards...

***********
Guy Blackmon said:
This actually just happened to me. Bought a new rig and couldn't get it to start. It would fire off with stating fluid but no gas getting to carb. Prob was fuel solenoid sticking. Took it off cleaned it up, and motor fired right up.

I can't strip a motor down and rebuild it, but having simple and basic knowledge of your equipment will save down time and money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
I was able to get it running after changing the fuel filter, draining and adding fresh fuel with additive. While I was at it, I decided to also install two new plugs...Once started, it will run fine when the ball valve is fully open. When I begin to close the valve, I noticed the motor bogging down momentarily and then rev back up.

Guy Blackmon said:
Ok I don't get it. First you say it's not running now you say it runs but bogs down at load, which is it? Now sounds like old gas, fuel filter or unloader problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
Carb rebuilding 101.9 .. A partially plugged jet explains the symptoms.
Find a parts diagram, on line, and look at the carb and fuel components.
Visualize the motor in front of you.. is basically just "parts".
..and each parts group (like a carb), is a "pre-assembly".. not just lots of parts..
example: the air-cleaner is a sub-assembly. You simply un-stack it, to get to the carb..
setting the air cleaner parts in a row, left to right, as you remove them,
lay the screws or nuts on the part they came off of,
when you get to the carb, only remove the part you need to open,
and remove it as a sub-assembly.. make it simple on yourself..
open the carb without removing unnecessary pieces..
identify on the diagram where the individual jets are located,
one by one, cleaning them with carb cleaner, one at a time, and the thorofare they live in,
replacing them to almost as tight as they came out, or better..
Some parts like carb top-screws, are commonly found loose.
Vibration makes it necessary to check them every time they are accessible.
Jets get corroded in, so "just snug" is easier for future maintenance on those.

While you are in the carb.. Remember..

as "fuel deposits settle" in the system, they build up bottom to top. use q-tips if you have to, to clean the parts you can see
Don't put a Q-tip in a hole you can't see through. (LOL)
Find the probably gummy (from bad gas) solenoid (at the bottom of the carb), letting the diagram assist you in getting to it.
Remove it, and Clean it with carb cleaner.. Blow carb cleaner through the galley-ways connected to the solenoid's "home",
.. (cleaning galley-ways is what the tube on the carb cleaner is for).
Reinstall the solenoid, reassemble the rest, in perfect reverse,
.. and voila' ! ready to run !
Nuts n bolts man !

Now, before you go do it.. read these rules:
ALWAYS use carb cleaner over cardboard for instant capture, and disposal.
NEVER drop anything onto the top of an engine,
and IF you do.. get it. get it out, or you will be sorry..
“magnets” live under the flywheel..
that's another story for another day. :{p

One more thing.. NEVER tell yourself, or anyone else you are not mechanically inclined..
ALL machines are just "nuts 'n bolts"
Everything that went together.. can come apart.
When we are meticulous, at taking them apart, they can (almost always) go back together..
Each time you try, get the diagram, and prove to yourself, it's just nuts n bolts & gaskets first.
 
Last edited:
Thanks a lot...Very informative...Will look for parts diagram...With ethanol prevalent at most gas stations, I cannot see carb problems going away. All we can do is to minimize future problems. Nuts and bolts summarizes everything perfectly...

Sirocco Jerry said:
Carb rebuilding 101.9 .. A partially plugged jet explains the symptoms.
Find a parts diagram, on line, and look at the carb and fuel components.
Visualize the motor in front of you.. is basically just "parts".
..and each parts group (like a carb), is a "pre-assembly".. not just lots of parts..
example: the air-cleaner is a sub-assembly. You simply un-stack it, to get to the carb..
setting the air cleaner parts in a row, left to right, as you remove them,
lay the screws or nuts on the part they came off of,
when you get to the carb, only remove the part you need to open,
and remove it as a sub-assembly.. make it simple on yourself..
open the carb without removing unnecessary pieces..
identify on the diagram where the individual jets are located,
one by one, cleaning them with carb cleaner, one at a time, and the thorofare they live in,
replacing them to almost as tight as they came out, or better..
Some parts like carb top-screws, are commonly found loose.
Vibration makes it necessary to check them every time they are accessible.
Jets get corroded in, so "just snug" is easier for future maintenance on those.

While you are in the carb.. Remember..

as "fuel deposits settle" in the system, they build up bottom to top. use q-tips if you have to, to clean the parts you can see
Don't put a Q-tip in a hole you can't see through. (LOL)
Find the probably gummy (from bad gas) solenoid (at the bottom of the carb), letting the diagram assist you in getting to it.
Remove it, and Clean it with carb cleaner.. Blow carb cleaner through the galley-ways connected to the solenoid's "home",
.. (cleaning galley-ways is what the tube on the carb cleaner is for).
Reinstall the solenoid, reassemble the rest, in perfect reverse,
.. and voila' ! ready to run !
Nuts n bolts man !

Now, before you go do it.. read these rules:
ALWAYS use carb cleaner over cardboard for instant capture, and disposal.
NEVER drop anything onto the top of an engine,
and IF you do.. get it. get it out, or you will be sorry..
“magnets” live under the flywheel..
that's another story for another day. :{p

One more thing.. NEVER tell yourself, or anyone else you are not mechanically inclined..
ALL machines are just "nuts 'n bolts"
Everything that went together.. can come apart.
When we are meticulous, at taking them apart, they can (almost always) go back together..
Each time you try, get the diagram, and prove to yourself, it's just nuts n bolts & gaskets first.
Click to expand...
 
Here ya go...

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