Hit after hit... Now, No Hot Water!

You should be prepared to take a picture, preferably at night, of the awesome nitro-burning flames roaring out.
 
:killingme: .. .. even better.. set up a video ! .. we like action-shots.

..you'll need both hands to control that fire anyway. Eh?
 
Nigel I like to have a big relay and oversized wire for the motor, then separate switched circuits, then its easy to add diagnostic led's also like the espec deal. So you flip two switches for heat. Is the relay important for 120v systems? I know it is for 12v. I like gauges! Now I have to get a fuel-inlet-vacuum gauge because of Nigel. On your next video, will you say 'beer can' and then say 'bacon'?
 
If your generator is loading up, try using a volt/ohm meter to check each component for a short. At this point I am guessing it is the transformer. This should make finding the problem easier because you are looking for a shorted-out part.
 
Russ Johnson said:
I wouldn't want a burner wired like that. I'd want to interrupt power to the entire burner with the switch.
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What are the cons Russ?..... I have unpluged the system from the generator when running strickly cold water for long periods.




Sirocco Jerry said:
usually, when an Ignitor fails, it burns up internally, ..like a lite-bulb burning out,
and becomes an "open circuit".. not a dead short like a motor will.
If the motor has fried one or two layers in it's windings..
it will draw more current than usual, then it may run at a "slower than normal speed"...
If the diesel-fuel pump turns at less than 3200rpms.. it might NOT allow the pump to make full pressure..
..which will NOT allow the burner to burn clean, ..building up soot.
sound familliar ??

Y'all need to learn to carry a test-meter and learn to check for "resistance" more often than voltage..
it is more accurate, and safer.

From now on, I am going to offer a Presssure Washer Troubleshooting Class
every time I put on a Wash Water Control certification class..
You guys need to troublshoot faster than "guesswork"
..at 3AM,
..in front of your most valuable customer,
..or during a demo,
..on a difficult day.

I make a big deal about how you guys should "know" the local service center,
but you are "on your own" ..more than an hour away from the tech,
..or even after 5PM

Troubleshooting that burner should have been a 15 minute project.

..and once you DO get it up,
you'll have a bunch of unburned fuel to clear out of the burner chamber..
If you are not prepared for that, you could have an "uncontrolled fire" on your hands.

..You might have to pull the reed-switch out of the flow-switch real quick,
(or pull the microswitch out of the pressure switch for you econo-machine fans,)
and hold the trigger-gun open to let the fire burn itself out.
..whilst the flowing water keeps it from overheating.
When you do start the beast up.. do it without a spray nozzle in the wand..
let it flow easy, and with less noise,so you can "hear" the burner you are working on..
A blower wheel could cause all the same symptoms descrided above..
including killing the burner-motor prematurely.
that reminds me.. Russ's suggestion of checking the fan-wheel for binding was a good one.

There's more to clearing a flooded burner than I have time to write just now.
So just call me if you need me.
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Could he turn the theromsatat down below ambient to stop the flow of fuel if he has an uncontrolled flame, but it does raise a good point, should the fuel line out of the tank have an emergency shut off valve? Yes you would destroy the fuel pump , but if you have an uncontrolled fire in the combustion chamber it could be a good feature.




tomtucson said:
Nigel I like to have a big relay and oversized wire for the motor, then separate switched circuits, then its easy to add diagnostic led's also like the espec deal. So you flip two switches for heat. Is the relay important for 120v systems? I know it is for 12v. I like gauges! Now I have to get a fuel-inlet-vacuum gauge because of Nigel. On your next video, will you say 'beer can' and then say 'bacon'?
Click to expand...



lol. ok, how you doing? Its a caribbean thing............I needed that gauage I could not tell if the fuel fiter was dirty. I change it when it reads about the middle of the yellow range



Sirocco Jerry said:
use a liquid-filled gauge for reliability,
and stick with a 0-200psi version.. it tells all.
Click to expand...


True that.
 
What are the cons Russ?..... I have unpluged the system from the generator when running strickly cold water for long periods.
Click to expand...

The first reason that comes to mind...if the solenoid develops a small leak, it'll be dumping fuel into the chamber the whole time it's running.
I'd also like to be able to shut off just the burner if I'm working on it instead of shutting the engine off or unplugging the cord...some of which are hard wired.
 
Russ Johnson said:
The first reason that comes to mind...if the solenoid develops a small leak, it'll be dumping fuel into the chamber the whole time it's running.
I'd also like to be able to shut off just the burner if I'm working on it instead of shutting the engine off or unplugging the cord...some of which are hard wired.
Click to expand...

thanks, great point on the solenoid leaking, at least mine its not hard wired.

Whats the typical life expectancy of the solenoid (ball park)?
 
Knowing Tony, he probably surpassed the design limitations of the solenoid.
 
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