Kevin Moffett
New member
When winterizing my unit do I just pour the RV Antifreeze (6 gallons) into my tank run until antifreeze comes out the tip of the wand then i should be all good ? is this correct
Winterizing ??
- Thread starter Kevin Moffett
- Start date
Doug Rucker
Roundtable Host 2009
That's what I do.
IndyExterior
New member
It needs to run through the bypass lines too.
We disconnect our whip lines then blow out our pressure lines and supply hose. Takes 6 gals each time for two units that share a trailer. I hate this time of the year. We buy RV or windshield washer fluid by the cases.
If it's a one night deal at high 20's we sometimes just run a trouble light under the pumps overnight with a cover on.
We disconnect our whip lines then blow out our pressure lines and supply hose. Takes 6 gals each time for two units that share a trailer. I hate this time of the year. We buy RV or windshield washer fluid by the cases.
If it's a one night deal at high 20's we sometimes just run a trouble light under the pumps overnight with a cover on.
The Cleaner
Vetran Washer 30 Years Plus
I dont know about pouring anti freeze down your unit? All ya gota do is get married :winknudge:
Russ Spence
Commercial Pressure Wash Expert
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Paul Kassander
New member
If you have a float tank on the unit you can use that or work off a small drum. I prefer using the a 15 gallon one with a bulkhead fitting on the bottom. I fill it up about half way with the antifreeze that way when I reuse it the product does not get too diluted from mixing with the water. Hook the line up to the inlet on the pump and start the unit. Squeeze the trigger and let it start sucking in the antifreeze. After a few seconds let off the trigger and then squeeze the trigger again, this will winterize your bypass line. Keep the trigger pulled until you see the antifreeze coming out of the line an you should be good.
To start washing just hook your unit up to the water supply and squeeze the trigger spraying the antifreeze back into your 15 gal holding tank. Let off the trigger again for a few seconds to flush out the bypass line and re-squeeze the trigger. When the line runs clear again you are ready to wash.
When I used to have to winterize a lot I would hook up the tank with a 3 way ball valve to make the process much faster.
To start washing just hook your unit up to the water supply and squeeze the trigger spraying the antifreeze back into your 15 gal holding tank. Let off the trigger again for a few seconds to flush out the bypass line and re-squeeze the trigger. When the line runs clear again you are ready to wash.
When I used to have to winterize a lot I would hook up the tank with a 3 way ball valve to make the process much faster.
apple
Moderator
Ive got a 30 gallon leg tank sitting around that Im going to use just like this. I already have a T to attach it in place I just need to add a ball valve to shut off my supply tank from the machines.
Its supposed to bump 32 tommorrow night here. I need to go winterize my boat too!
Lou hoods&more
New member
It's what I'm going to have to start doing too :crying: Last week in Cedar City it dropped into the 30's I was cold!!
Big Mike
Member
OK, we have to "winterize" all the time, and here's what we do:
1. Pull the burst disc, and blow out the coils with compressed air
2. Remove the hex head plug from the unloader, or mounting block
3. Unhook supply hose from tank and insert into a 1 gal jug of RV antifreeze
4. Crank the motor until you see antifreeze coming out of the unloader or block
(this method only uses a half gallon of antifreeze per unit)
Just did this today on 6 units. Believe me, I've had everything go wrong with winterization, from cracked coils to cracked pumps, to ...etc, etc, etc....
The above method will eliminate all problems, and if you need your rig in a pinch, all you need is some teflon tape
On a side note, we use air to blow out all hoses, and it eliminates the need for all of the antifreeze. It gets REAL cold here, and I just don't trust using antifreeze.
Additionally, if you're in a warmer climate, just wrap an electric heating pad around your pump at night. We do this up until we winterize. Cheap and easy.....
1. Pull the burst disc, and blow out the coils with compressed air
2. Remove the hex head plug from the unloader, or mounting block
3. Unhook supply hose from tank and insert into a 1 gal jug of RV antifreeze
4. Crank the motor until you see antifreeze coming out of the unloader or block
(this method only uses a half gallon of antifreeze per unit)
Just did this today on 6 units. Believe me, I've had everything go wrong with winterization, from cracked coils to cracked pumps, to ...etc, etc, etc....
The above method will eliminate all problems, and if you need your rig in a pinch, all you need is some teflon tape
On a side note, we use air to blow out all hoses, and it eliminates the need for all of the antifreeze. It gets REAL cold here, and I just don't trust using antifreeze.
Additionally, if you're in a warmer climate, just wrap an electric heating pad around your pump at night. We do this up until we winterize. Cheap and easy.....
Lou hoods&more
New member
Hey Mike would you suggest this is done every time we pack up from a job or at the night one of the night.
I'm not that familiar with winterizing either, but I best get with it cause it gets cold in Utah and Idaho.
I'm not that familiar with winterizing either, but I best get with it cause it gets cold in Utah and Idaho.
propylene- vs.ethylene-glycol
It sounds like propylene(rv/marine) is prefferred over ethylene; any reasons other than toxicity. RV comes "ready to use" around here; are there any dilution concerns with repeated flushing by spring? This is my first season and......I can't afford a new pump,unloader,coil!! Any insight is appreciated. thanx! Jon
It sounds like propylene(rv/marine) is prefferred over ethylene; any reasons other than toxicity. RV comes "ready to use" around here; are there any dilution concerns with repeated flushing by spring? This is my first season and......I can't afford a new pump,unloader,coil!! Any insight is appreciated. thanx! Jon
dieseldad97
New member
Great thread.
This will be my first time winterizing, and appreciate all the info given. I, like Jon don't want to replace parts in spring after I find out I did something wrong. I really need to find a heated shop to store my rig!
hi-temp hydro
New member
Don't forget to blow out the supply lines either. Its a real pain to try to unthaw 100+ feet of hose in the morning after a cold night. I use a male compressor fitting into a 1/4" to 1/2" bushing to a 1/2" to male hose bushing. Be sure not to let air pressure build up before hooking it up,its not pretty.
As far as machines, I set up a T with shutoffs on the buffer tank side and another after a plastic lawnmower gas tank I modified to hold wiper fluid. Close the tank shut off, open the other, wait till water turns blue from the end of the whip and done.
I also blow out the pressure lines and delevan lines the same as supply lines. That way not as much fluid is needed. I got tired of people looking at me at Wal-Mart like I was cooking meth or something with all the fluid I was buying...
As far as machines, I set up a T with shutoffs on the buffer tank side and another after a plastic lawnmower gas tank I modified to hold wiper fluid. Close the tank shut off, open the other, wait till water turns blue from the end of the whip and done.
I also blow out the pressure lines and delevan lines the same as supply lines. That way not as much fluid is needed. I got tired of people looking at me at Wal-Mart like I was cooking meth or something with all the fluid I was buying...
IndyExterior
New member
Chris Tharpe
New member
When we have to winterize our units we just blow everything out but since they are used at night and typically at night is when it gets below freezing (5-10 nights per year) we don't have any problems because by the times we get started its still near or above freezing and once they are blown out after the night is finished it gets warmer and will thaw if any little is frozen.
Big Mike
Member
Lou, we usually do this at the end of the season. If we're still working in cold temps I prefer the heating pad for the pump, and blow out the coil and hoses at the last job. On our big truck we have a compressor onboard, so it only takes about ten minutes and you're good to go. Large supply lines (1" and bigger) usually won't freeze up unless the temp is below 25 or so.
Paul Kassander
New member
Most times the units will maintain enough residual heat in an enclosed truck/trailer to travel between jobs. I would winterize at the end of day when you are done. If you need to travel between jobs when it is real cold you can run the hose back to your tank and leave your unit running and it won't freeze.
I have found antifreeze to be more reliable than just blowing out the lines as some water is always trapped and will sometimes freeze to make a blockage. Usually it never causes damage but it may slow down the restart while you wait for it to thaw.
I have found antifreeze to be more reliable than just blowing out the lines as some water is always trapped and will sometimes freeze to make a blockage. Usually it never causes damage but it may slow down the restart while you wait for it to thaw.