Water Tank Setup

UnderPressure

UnderPressure

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i have came across a good deal on a 250 gallon tank that I would like to hook up to my pressure washer... i have a 4000 psi 4gpm unit with a 13 hp engine...what would be the right way to going about hooking it up.
 
Is the pressure washer belt or direct drive? If it is a belt drive then you will be fine hooking it to a tank. If it is a direct drive it may not have enough "pull" to suck from a tank more than 2 -3 feet away. PVC piping is fine to hard line the tank to the PW if you are going to make the machine stationary. Use 3/4" line to 1" line to help aid in flow. Some guys go as high as 1 1/2" to 2" but they are usually higher volume machines. Add a ball valve to the line as well to cut the water off from the tank to the maching when not in use. If you are still wanting the machine to be portable you can use clear braided hose to go from the tank to the machine.
 
with the clear braided hose... how is the water being sucked from the tank to the pressure washer...and if its being sucked is it a strong enough pressure to not mess up the pump?
 
I had the same washer hooked to a water tank and had the 1" clear hose hooked to it and had no problems. I set the tank higher than the washer.
 
UnderPressure said:
i have came across a good deal on a 250 gallon tank that I would like to hook up to my pressure washer.
Click to expand...
Is it one of those square ones in its own wire frame? Those are called Intermediate Bulk Containers (IBC) or sometimes "totes." They usually have a 2" outlet with a ball valve on it.
We kicked around some ideas about those here not too long ago. One excellent idea was the use of some of that orange plastic mesh fence stuffed inside the tank as a baffle, so the water doesn't slam back and forth if you drive with the not-full or not-empty tank in your truck.

If the washer is movable and the tank stays in your truck or on a trailer, you could set the machine somewhere below the tank outlet and have a little gravity-feed advantage. Just don't make the supply hose too long if there's no positive pressure behind it.

I thought the deal with direct-vs.-belt drive from a tank was that the direct drive is always running at the same (high) RPM, so it might "run away from" its water supply. :confused:
 
direct or belt wont matter. double feed it and no worries. use the flex line that is clear with the white stripe. Heat the lines with a torch and push over the barbs, the hoses will cool down to the shape of the barb. Use a float valve in the tank for fills.
 
Destin,

I have a similar unit. I just setup a float tank for my unloader. The setup will be the same for your 250 Gal. tank, minus the constant water flow of the feed hose from the tap. See attached Pics.


  • I have a 1" Hudson float valve connected to the water hose to keep water in my feed tank. You would leave this out unless you want to fill the tank unattended and not worry about an overflow. I would do this.
  • I have a line run from my unloader to the top of the tank. This sends the water back into the tank when the trigger is not pulled on the wand.
  • I have a line run from the bottom of the tank run to the inlet of my pressure washer.
I hope this helps, let me know if you need more info.

Chris
 

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David O'Connell Jr said:
direct or belt wont matter. double feed it and no worries. use the flex line that is clear with the white stripe. Heat the lines with a torch and push over the barbs, the hoses will cool down to the shape of the barb. Use a float valve in the tank for fills.
Click to expand...

Ditto. ;)

This is a local company that sells lots of units here in east Tn. There all direct drive 4 gpm machines. No problems.

http://magnumclean.com/
 
The piece on the right had a small hose feeding to the Hose feed inlet when I purchased the PW unit. I put a brass plug in the hose feed, and ran a longer hose as the bypass to the tank. This is a Northern Tool 13HP 4000psi 3.5 gal min. PW. This is the way it came from the store. I hope that answers your question?

Chris
 
SP Cleaning said:
The piece on the right had a small hose feeding to the Hose feed inlet when I purchased the PW unit. I put a brass plug in the hose feed, and ran a longer hose as the bypass to the tank. This is a Northern Tool 13HP 4000psi 3.5 gal min. PW. This is the way it came from the store. I hope that answers your question?

Chris
Click to expand...

So it was originally bypassing to the input, but you changed it to bypass to a tank right?

That piece coming out of the right side of the pump that has the 90 on it looks like an unloader? Is that what it is?
 
Yes, it was originally bypassing to the input, but I changed it to bypass to a tank.
I should have gotten a before picture, sorry.
The piece on the right comes on these units from the factory as you see it, Yes I believe it is some sort of unloader, maybe to control the flow that was going back to the water inlet? I just pulled out the user manual Page 11, and it has no info on it, just a diagram of it as you see it. Here is a link to the MANUAL.
I hope this helps.

Chris
 
SP Cleaning said:
Yes, it was originally bypassing to the input, but I changed it to bypass to a tank.
I should have gotten a before picture, sorry.
The piece on the right comes on these units from the factory as you see it, Yes I believe it is some sort of unloader, maybe to control the flow that was going back to the water inlet? I just pulled out the user manual Page 11, and it has no info on it, just a diagram of it as you see it. Here is a link to the MANUAL.
I hope this helps.

Chris
Click to expand...

Thats cool. Ive never seen anything like that before and was asking. Thanks
 
[QUOTE=David O'Connell Jr;148196]direct or belt wont matter. double feed it and no worries. use the flex line that is clear with the white stripe. Heat the lines with a torch and push over the barbs, the hoses will cool down to the shape of the barb. Use a float valve in the tank for fills.[/QUDa



Dave how would you double feed it? 2 lines going to 1 inlet?
 
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