Mr. Chapman,
A gentle reminder that the motto here is "Changing the Industry Through Education". Educate us.
Your post was insightful, recommending What Not to do. How about some suggestions recommending What to do?
If this is a re-sand, and poly isn't recommended, do we simply tell customers that "its gonna wash out, sorry." Yes, actually. Or seal it with a sand stabilizing sealer. I use Seal N Lock, There are other sealers out there that do the same, but I have used several and have not had the desired results as with SnL.
I hired Russ (?) out of Charleston to "seal" my friend's pool deck. Met him at pwi Myrtle Beach. I think it was Paver Seal. He charged $1100 and the following year the same problems occurred. Russ is a gentleman, but I could have done the same job and achieved the same results for a fraction of the cost. The sealants on the market won't keep an oil stain from penetrating the paver. Most people equate "seal" with keeping ants, moss, etc., out of the joints, and Paver Seal certainly didn't achieve that result I don't know which Russ you are talking about, but the year later results could be due to many factors. (see my previous rambling post.)
No water based sealer will keep oil from penetrating if left long enough. If oil is the issue, then solvent acrylics will work better, but if left for too long with out cleaning, Oil will penetrate those also. Even after sealing, pavers are not maintenance free!
Situation: thin pavers, small seams, laid on dirt/gravel, maybe graded/pitched properly maybe not. If thin pavers were laid on dirt or gravel, I would not take the job. Your asking for sealer failure! Thin pavers are meant for overlay on concrete, with a layer of sand underneath. I don't know the standard exactly, but I think a minimum of 1/4 inch. I(Im used to seeing a light dusting of sand just to make it look like the installers were following procedures.) Thin seams are tough in any situation. Small sand particles can go in, but the small sand particles don't stabilize well. Courser sand is better and SealNLock recommends nothing smaller than 75 microns. Course, angular sand is called for. Yeah, I know, its almost impossible to find course sand in my area and yours too, but I've still had success with the fine sand. But nothing works 100% in every situation. you work with what you can get.
Situation: thick pavers, wide seams, laid on concrete, graded/pitched properly. Why would thick pavers be laid on concrete? If that's the case though, wide joints make sanding a breeze, except it washes out easier if your wet sanding so you have to use more care. I think that would be an Ideal situation for polymeric, because it would be easier to remove it deep enough.
Very few of the "best" paver installers/companies around here use anything other than playground sand on five-figure driveway installs. It is a joke, but great opportunity for guys like me to sell a job. If you are having success with what your doing, fantastic! You have past the learning curve and are enjoying the fruits of your learning. But when sealing pavers, it is easier to clean, sand (with what ever is available) and use a good sealer. Again, Seal n Lock is my choice. My answer before was that polymeric is not made for re-sanding. Doesn't mean it can't be used, just not what its designed for.
Slightly unrelated story: I went to an estimate yesterday for very light colored travertine paver pool deck. The customer had bought polymeric from Home depot to resand. It was bright orange! and he filled every hole and void with it. but it was already cracking and falling out of the joints. It has become popular and we will see more and more of it.
Look forward to your reply, we have three re-sands pending, just waiting out the rain.