flow problem

MARK W.

MARK W.

Member
I just set up my water tank with 2'' pvc.
I have the filter and pump line(5/8) on the left.
I have a line for washing your hands or what ever down the middle.
On the right is a dump valve.
I just can't seem to get enough flow to get the washer up the max pressure.
My pump is a little higher then the bottom of my tank but I thought if I keep the water in the tank higher than the pump, I would be ok.
There seems to be a nice flow before I hook up the line to the pump but whan I start the washer It's just not enough.
I did a search and got some good tips but still can't figure it out.
My p/w is 4.9 gpm and belt drive pump. It's not the one you see in the picture.
 

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How long is that hose going to the machine? I also use 2" hose but I keep it 2" right up until it goes into the machine the I drop it to 3/4". I can still pull pretty good from my tanks when I only have 20 gallons in them. Is that filter causing some problems? Some of those water filters take water pressure on the other end to really push the water through. You may want to check that.
 
Thanks to all for your help.
I started to check for air leaks and found that my thermal relief valve was bad. I was sucking air because the valve stayed open.
Got it going now!
 
When I install a tank I use no smaller than 1 inch schedual 80 PVC for all of the fittings. If a hose must be used I use 1 inch reinforced suction hose. This type of hose does not bend or collapse easily. Garden hose will kink and flatten and restrict the flow. Never use garden hose! it is not designed for suction. It is designed forpressurized water flow. Clear braided hose is a better choice. I have even used steel braided hydrolic hose with 1 inch ID in one install but it was expensive. It made a neat Install and the gittings were all swedged on and screwed on without the use of hose clamps.
 

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i really like this set-up wiz but i also like my upstreamer.
Wiz what is the PSI on the bypass hose.
I have a portable unit that sometimes need's to come off the truck.
I want your pic set-up but also want to remove it.
Next question, if i want the bybass hose to go back to the pump head but also ''leak out'' about 1 gal of the water to the ground per min [5 ggpm unit-2021]. So the pump will never over heat. What would be the best way and stuff i would need? [no upstream on this unit]
 
Ron P.

Been toying with dropping some of the bypass water to the ground myself.

I don't use a tank but pump over heating is still a big concern.

A PWer named Harald Brandtley passed the idea on. He uses a three way valve for his set up on d.d. pumps and no tanks

I have tried adding a 1/4" discharge line using a tee of the unloader bypass.

This does discharge to the ground but, since I also have approximately 5% in bypass all the time it also discharges in the hp mode. I am using pressure type unloaders. I think he was using a K-7 flow type. Maybe that why I have not been sucessful yet.

Still working on it though. I may have to by the three way.

Please pass on your findings.
 
Remember that a direct drive, high speed, short stroke pump will only effectively lift water 6" or less.

Looking at the supplied picture your pump inlet is higher than that above the supply hose. Yes, the air leak you discovered will exacerbate the problem but you still have an underlying problem that may potentially cause a water starvation problem for the pump.

You MUST get the tank outlet above the pump inlet so you have a flooded suction to the pump inlet. This is completely regardless of the size of the tank and the supply hoses. There will be suction pressure on the hose so you do require a crush proof, reinforced hose.

A belt drive, low speed, long stroke pump, on the other hand, will effectively lift water 6' straight up so they definitely draw both water and soap much better than direct drive.

As to bypassing water, when unloaded the bypass should be only slightly more than inlet pressure and you could have a small amount of water through the hose when working. Many professional pressure washers run a hose from the bypass back to their tank to allow them to sit in bypass longer because of the heat absorption capability of gallons of water.

Hope this helps? Cheers.
 
I used the set up the other day and had maybe 20 to 30 gal. in the tank.
My p/w was pulling the water just fine.
I would like to put a bypass line in, but not sure on what unloader I should get. I know the one I have is not set up for a line going back to the tank.
 
oneness said:
Michael:

The machine he's using on the setup you see is a belt drive, not the one in the picture.
Click to expand...

Sorry missed that part of the posting :}
 
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