Deck stripping

OkanoganPressureWash

OkanoganPressureWash

New member
When it comes to removing paint off a deck I hear different opinions on the nozzle angle to the wood. Some say go right and left across the grain and others say go back and forth with the grain? Which is the best way to prevent wood damage and "fuzzing" of the grain?
 
Do you really mean paint? or are you referring to stain? Personally, I won't even try to remove paint, unless its to prep for re-painting. Way too difficult and, around here at least, too few willing to pay for it.

Assuming you're stripping something that can actually be stripped, work with the grain, feathering in and out. I like a 45* tip, but the key to not fuzzing the wood is controlling your chems and pressure. Use the lowest pressure possible, let the chems do the work and neutralize.

Back and forth across the grain CAN be useful in removing scars left by - hopefully - others.

(My experience and suggestions relate to pressure treated wood. I rarely ever see anything else.)
 
John Orr said:
Do you really mean paint? or are you referring to stain? Personally, I won't even try to remove paint, unless its to prep for re-painting. Way too difficult and, around here at least, too few willing to pay for it.

Assuming you're stripping something that can actually be stripped, work with the grain, feathering in and out. I like a 45* tip, but the key to not fuzzing the wood is controlling your chems and pressure. Use the lowest pressure possible, let the chems do the work and neutralize.

Back and forth across the grain CAN be useful in removing scars left by - hopefully - others.

(My experience and suggestions relate to pressure treated wood. I rarely ever see anything else.)
Click to expand...

Hi John,

It's old cracked, peeling, chipping paint on an old cedar deck. They want the paint off and they are going to sand and re-paint themselves after I'm done..
 
Hi, just so you know, I attempted nearly the same thing on a fence recently and had little to no luck. The paint was peeling and failing, and even with the stripper at full strength, there was still a great deal of paint left and the poor wood suffered for my folly.

I applied a solid stain (same color) over top and it turned out satisfactory to the customer, however, I will personally not attempt this foolishness again. :shout: I will leave "painting" to the painters and will stick to stains.

Please learn from my "live-and-learn" experience and stay away from dealing with previously painted surfaces ..you'll be glad you did.
 
Cedar tend s to have much tanin bleeding over and over. If the paint was not breathable the moisture was trapped and started the coating failure. I have a product I use and can explain it in more detail through a email if you want. We do some decks that have this problem...total sand off I can say.

pleasewashmyroof@netzero.net
 
John Orr said:
Do you really mean paint? or are you referring to stain? Personally, I won't even try to remove paint, unless its to prep for re-painting. Way too difficult and, around here at least, too few willing to pay for it.

Assuming you're stripping something that can actually be stripped, work with the grain, feathering in and out. I like a 45* tip, but the key to not fuzzing the wood is controlling your chems and pressure. Use the lowest pressure possible, let the chems do the work and neutralize.

Back and forth across the grain CAN be useful in removing scars left by - hopefully - others.

(My experience and suggestions relate to pressure treated wood. I rarely ever see anything else.)
Click to expand...

Paint. :eek: I learned a new thing in my pressure washing business today. "No paint stripping decks!" Yuk! Hard! Long! Hard on the wood grain. That was no fun. Not...no more...
 
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