Anyone using an additive when rinsing?

"Red"

Graphic Designer
Something that helps with the "sheeting action" to produce a "spot free" rinse or something similar?

Well water is the worst if not filtered.
 
Hey Red, you could d/s a wax to the final rinse. I've done it and it works pretty good! Use it as an advantage to separate yourself from the other washers. You can even get a few extra bucks doing it also!

On a side note...I tried a sample of EBC last year and I couldn't believe how nice those windows looked when I was done. Used less time rinsing also. I'll be washing with EBC this year.
 
I don't use any additives, just the commercial house washing soaps like talked about in the other thread.

There are some concerns with using well water:

1. Using a pressure washer with 5.6 gpm I heard can make the well pumps burn up as they are not meant to run continuously to fill large tanks.
2. A lot of well water has high amounts of iron (makes things rust) and sometimes high amounts of salt (if close to the coastlines) which can affect your pressure washer.
3. Without a filter after the well pump, there could be sand, dirt and other grit in there that can damage pump packings and the pump.

I always ask if they are on well water or city water. If they are on well water I ask them if their pump will burn up pumping 5.6gpm for an hour or longer, they should know about their pump. Ask if they have filters after the pump or not. Ask more questions to see if the job is viable to do with well water or not.

You might have to bring the tank 1/2 full to start the job and adjust your float so that the level is about 1/2 way in the tank so you don't have their well pump running all the time, just when you need it and slow down work on the job so you are not working so fast like take a lot of breaks so it is easier on their pumps.

This kind of stuff has worked for me in the past, that and a filter before my tank to help keep some of the trash from getting into my tank.
 
Try Mr. Clean with febreeze. Comes in 40 oz bottles at Walmart and the like. Just downstream it in a VERY weak solution. Maybe two or three ounces in a fiver. I usually tend to over do it. I do this often when I wash my vehicles. Great on housewashes too when there's lots of big windows of you're concerned about hard water spotting. Also does a great job to mask the bleach smell if that is a concern. I have also just put a cup or so in two fifty or 300 gallons in my buffer tank and spray direct. Really don't believe it hurts the pump.

Pat Norman 663-316-7685
 
Something that helps with the "sheeting action" to produce a "spot free" rinse or something similar?

Well water is the worst if not filtered.

Lol I doubt there is a lot of people on city water over there in Polk County. I never would have thought of it, but I guess that could be a problem.

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Our Wet Wax and Rinse Aid will take care of the spots. The Wet Wax sheets the water and has a drying agent in it and the Rinse Aid conditions the water. I recommend it mixed with the Citracleen. The key is knowing how to mix it. The harder the water the more prone it is to spots, too much Rinse Aid in the mix and you will never get it rinsed. I had someone not listen one time and poured a whole gallon in with 300 gallons of rinse water and the called wanting to know what was wrong.
 
Try Mr. Clean with febreeze. Comes in 40 oz bottles at Walmart and the like. Just downstream it in a VERY weak solution. Maybe two or three ounces in a fiver. I usually tend to over do it. I do this often when I wash my vehicles. Great on housewashes too when there's lots of big windows of you're concerned about hard water spotting. Also does a great job to mask the bleach smell if that is a concern. I have also just put a cup or so in two fifty or 300 gallons in my buffer tank and spray direct. Really don't believe it hurts the pump.

Pat Norman 663-316-7685


So after you downstream it, do you rinse again?
 
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