spray shield
- Thread starter charlie
- Start date
i use
luaun plywood 4x8 sheets cut in half long ways[2 2x8 duct tape the top edge to the house
i have 3 sheets cut up for that i screwed on some small scrap blocks to use as a handle
hers a good one for you use a 4x6 ft piece of luaun plywood with a aluminum gutter with end caps.
Put the plywood IN the gutter and drill and bolt them together [seal the plywood with polyuathane]
then screw two handles to the back of it. Then on
one end of the gutter on the bottom, left or right,put a valve to empty it.
you have one guy hold this behind the spindles and you shoot the sealer from the front. When the gutter collects the extra sealer just turn the valve and empty it into a bucket[i run mine threw a paint strainer] and reuse.
why just let hunks of cardboard suck it up
im working on a way to make this a one man way to do it.
luaun plywood 4x8 sheets cut in half long ways[2 2x8 duct tape the top edge to the house
i have 3 sheets cut up for that i screwed on some small scrap blocks to use as a handle
hers a good one for you use a 4x6 ft piece of luaun plywood with a aluminum gutter with end caps.
Put the plywood IN the gutter and drill and bolt them together [seal the plywood with polyuathane]
then screw two handles to the back of it. Then on
one end of the gutter on the bottom, left or right,put a valve to empty it.
you have one guy hold this behind the spindles and you shoot the sealer from the front. When the gutter collects the extra sealer just turn the valve and empty it into a bucket[i run mine threw a paint strainer] and reuse.
why just let hunks of cardboard suck it up
im working on a way to make this a one man way to do it.
reedsterstl
Member
I too use the luan sheets. I put a handle on the front of the sheet and slide it along with me when spraying. Got a great tip from Dave in VA. Get a "windex" type squirt bottle to do behind the posts resting up against the house. You can still slide the luan behind it most of the time and the pressure of the squirt bottle won't send the sealer very far. Also, good for doing the spindles on a windy day. Very fast too. The thin luan is great for getting up close to the house.
Reed
Reed
PressureClean
New member
Thank you guys! These two posts from Squirt and Reed have been worth all the time I've spend here over the past month!
These are just fantastic ideas. Exactly what we need to see more of on these boards.
Windex bottle, why didn't I think of that? My guys and I are so busy coming up with complicated ways to attach plastic to aluminum rails and hooks to hold them over railings. Go figure, luan, polyurethane, gutter at the bottom with a valve and a Windex bottle. You just made my day!
Remember that story about the truck that gets jammed in a tunnel because it's too high and all the engineers, police, firemen, and DOT guys are standing around trying to come up with ideas on how to remove it? The crane, the tow trucks, nothing will budge it out of the tunnel. Then a little girl asks why they don't just let the air out of the tires and all the experts kind of look at each other like "why didn't we think of that?" That's what I feel like sometimes when I read about simple solutions to these mundane problems we deal with everyday. We can beautifully restore a 20,000 sq. ft. brick building, but figuring out how to get stain on the back of a wooden spindle without spraying the neighborhood seems like rocket science sometimes.
It's good to know these ideas are out there.
Thanks again!
These are just fantastic ideas. Exactly what we need to see more of on these boards.
Windex bottle, why didn't I think of that? My guys and I are so busy coming up with complicated ways to attach plastic to aluminum rails and hooks to hold them over railings. Go figure, luan, polyurethane, gutter at the bottom with a valve and a Windex bottle. You just made my day!
Remember that story about the truck that gets jammed in a tunnel because it's too high and all the engineers, police, firemen, and DOT guys are standing around trying to come up with ideas on how to remove it? The crane, the tow trucks, nothing will budge it out of the tunnel. Then a little girl asks why they don't just let the air out of the tires and all the experts kind of look at each other like "why didn't we think of that?" That's what I feel like sometimes when I read about simple solutions to these mundane problems we deal with everyday. We can beautifully restore a 20,000 sq. ft. brick building, but figuring out how to get stain on the back of a wooden spindle without spraying the neighborhood seems like rocket science sometimes.
It's good to know these ideas are out there.
Thanks again!
Mike Hughes
Former Board Administrator
I'm a bit confused............charlie was asking about water.........all of the responses are regarding sealers.
PressureClean
New member
Oops, I guess he was huh?
I'm still excited about the answers though...
Charlie, the only thing we use that would be close to a spray shield is when were close to gardens, landscaping and things that like to blast all over the area when you hit it with pressure, like mulch... We've built these collapsing aluminum barriers that we unfold around something, say the sidewalk end or a railroad tie for a wall in a garden. Then we can hit the rail with the pressure and not worry about killing the plants or blasting mulch or stone everywhere because the overspray is contained by the aluminum barrier. I've seen guys use wood for this, but the wood disintegrates after a few times. Get a few pieces of sturdy metal, and then add something on the sides so that you can unfold it so it supports the barrier and you don't have to have somebody else hold it. Then you can spray away and not worry about hitting everything else.
Hope that helps.
I'm still excited about the answers though...
Charlie, the only thing we use that would be close to a spray shield is when were close to gardens, landscaping and things that like to blast all over the area when you hit it with pressure, like mulch...
We've built these collapsing aluminum barriers that we unfold around something, say the sidewalk end or a railroad tie for a wall in a garden. Then we can hit the rail with the pressure and not worry about killing the plants or blasting mulch or stone everywhere because the overspray is contained by the aluminum barrier. I've seen guys use wood for this, but the wood disintegrates after a few times. Get a few pieces of sturdy metal, and then add something on the sides so that you can unfold it so it supports the barrier and you don't have to have somebody else hold it. Then you can spray away and not worry about hitting everything else.Hope that helps.
reedsterstl
Member
Charlie,
4ml plastic sheeting or luan will do it. I use the Wolman Backsaver pump up to apply the strippers and brightners. Telescoping wand and 8 feet of hose. Plus you can vary the pressure and is fan tipped for control.
Plus, Wolman will replace broken parts free, at least they did for me. Relatively inexpensive. No parts that corrode
Reed
4ml plastic sheeting or luan will do it. I use the Wolman Backsaver pump up to apply the strippers and brightners. Telescoping wand and 8 feet of hose. Plus you can vary the pressure and is fan tipped for control.
Plus, Wolman will replace broken parts free, at least they did for me. Relatively inexpensive. No parts that corrode
Reed
PressureClean
New member
Anytime we are near anything that could be discolored by the chemicals we are using, we brush it on to the area instead of spraying. I'm also real big on neutralizing chemicals before we spray. If you don't do this you could throw a glob of stripper mixed with stain 30 feet onto the side of the house and not even know it until it did a bunch of damage. It's a pain, but we've never had a problem when we neutralized first before we sprayed (pressure).
reedsterstl
Member
Lance,
When you neutrilized first, did you find any problems with the stripper not working immediately below the where the neutrilizer was applied?
Reed
When you neutrilized first, did you find any problems with the stripper not working immediately below the where the neutrilizer was applied?
Reed
PressureClean
New member
No, not really. We've had a few areas on hard jobs like redwood stain being removed so we could apply a natural colored sealer that we had to put a second coat in a few areas, but mostly we don't have problems because of neutralizing.
Just to clarify here though, we don't neutralize before we strip. We apply stripper, give it some dwell time and then apply neutralizer, then we will spray. I probably just misunderstood your question since it seemed like you were thinking maybe we applied neutralizer first. Same type of system we use when we are using restoration acids in the middle of town and there's traffic below us. Apply the chemical, then neutralize, then power wash it off. I'd rather have somebody bitching at us because we got gobs of low Ph crap on their windshield than gobs of acid burning their windshields and paint.
Just to clarify here though, we don't neutralize before we strip. We apply stripper, give it some dwell time and then apply neutralizer, then we will spray. I probably just misunderstood your question since it seemed like you were thinking maybe we applied neutralizer first. Same type of system we use when we are using restoration acids in the middle of town and there's traffic below us. Apply the chemical, then neutralize, then power wash it off. I'd rather have somebody bitching at us because we got gobs of low Ph crap on their windshield than gobs of acid burning their windshields and paint.