Pump Inlet

FoxCPM

FoxCPM

New member
I decided to take out all the manufacturer fittings at the pump inlet since I never use the upstreamer. I am trying to find a brass 1/2 male to 3/4 female, so I can reduce the fittings on the line as much as possible. Anybody knows where I can order online or buy one?
Here are some pics for better idea:
IMG_0164.jpg

IMG_0165.jpg


How many of you up-stream on regular basis? I personally dont find it useful at all..

Thanks!
 
Russ Johnson said:
I may have one in stock...I'll check later.
Click to expand...

Please let me know, if you have it, I would like to order. Home Depot doesn't have such fitting. Also what is the stuff used on the barbs for better seal and what thread locker is usually used on pressure washer threads like nozzles on surface cleaner? I usually put only tape, but sometimes it does not hold up due to pressure or too much vibrations.

Thanks Russ!
 
FoxSweeping said:
Please let me know, if you have it, I would like to order. Home Depot doesn't have such fitting. 1/2" MPT X 3/4" FPT fitting - $3.25, Priority Mail - $4.95. I have one on the shelf.

Also what is the stuff used on the barbs for better seal I never use anything on the barb. I guess you could use a light coat of teflon paste.

and what thread locker is usually used on pressure washer threads like nozzles on surface cleaner? Blue, medium strength. You may eventually want to disassemble it.

I usually put only tape, but sometimes it does not hold up due to pressure or too much vibrations.

Thanks Russ!
Click to expand...

................
 
dude, go to lowes. get a 1/2 inch coupler, and a hose thread on outside-1/2 inch on inside
 
I always go to Parker or Ace Hardware.. Ace hardware is the only place I can find Cross fittings.. And they have a big selection of Brass fittings too.. I also like the fact that someone always helps me when I go to ace.. Lowes and Depot you are pretty much on your own.
 
schrec said:
dude, go to lowes. get a 1/2 inch coupler, and a hose thread on outside-1/2 inch on inside
Click to expand...

I do have 1/2 coupler as you can see on the pic, but I don't like it that way. I want to have only 2 fittings: 1/2male-3/4female and 3/4thread-1" barb. That way I reduce the air bubbles that go into the pump to minimum.
 
they make Schedule80 barb fitings of all sizes to feed the pump. i had to switch from 1.25 to 1" because of the air bubbles. I now put a small valve on a tee that i can open to remove the air bubbles before i start the PW up. much safer for the pump like that. Landas have a bunch of usless brass fitings on them that i never used. so now its just one line from the tank.
 
El Flojo said:
they make Schedule80 barb fitings of all sizes to feed the pump. i had to switch from 1.25 to 1" because of the air bubbles. I now put a small valve on a tee that i can open to remove the air bubbles before i start the PW up. much safer for the pump like that. Landas have a bunch of usless brass fitings on them that i never used. so now its just one line from the tank.
Click to expand...

All these fittings on the pic above (pressureTek) are too much in my opinion as you say. All this crap for an up-stream injector... 1/2" male thread sch80 will make the inside of the fitting way too small i think.. I wonder, why General Pump make their 5.5 pump inlet 1/2" in the first place??
Btw this type of reinforced 1" hose is NO good for barbs, it will always leak.. Changed it with regular clear braided hose.
 
pipe filltings are FLOW restrictors, until PROVEN otherwise


EVERY change you make, should be an upgrade..
how GOOD an upgrade.. depends on how meticulous you are..

Pipe filltings are FLOW restrictors, until PROVEN otherwise..
choose fittings with the LARGEST interior diameter for the best FLOW possible..
the smallest part in the pump image is a 1/2"mpt "hex nipple"..
they have a smaller inside diameter than a "close nipple" ... :shocked:
..check it out !
The first rule of pumps, is NO LEAKS, the second rule, is..
give it the "perfect water supply".. for reliability.

watch out for hose barbs especially..
they frequently have a reduced interior diameter, especially the plastic ones !
Whilst I'm on the subject.. the biggest "party-foul" of all..
is the steel, or galvanized fittings on the inlet of a pump..
not only are they flow-restrictors of smaller i.d. but they rust themselves shut if left in place long enough, and ther send flakes of debris into the pump's check valves ! .....:yikes:
..replace them with brass. Eh?​

the true path to strength, is the ELIMINATION OF weakness !
:dance:
 
CLEAR nybraid is best

one more thing..
ditto on the CLEAR nybraid.. you'd want to see air-bubbles headed into your pump,
if there's a leak upstream. Eh?

and.. ditto to Russ, on the teflon tape.. for serviceability, teflon tape is good to over 6,000 psi,
and NEVER use more that medium strength thread locker on pipe threads..
especially on brass.. It destroys threads as you "shatter it" and continue unscrewing it apart..
Remember that wand that was lock-tighted together, and as you unscrewed it,
it felt like it got tighter, as you unscrewed it ??
That's the glue, "shattering" into little glass "teeth",
crunching and grinding the threads, as you unscrew the fittings. :fie:
ever since the first time I took apart an ST-5 flow switch, and I saw the damage
to those fine threads.. when I see the factory guys at the CETA shows,
I remind all the Italians I don't appreciate the glue, for serviceability
and rebuildability of the components.
..see, I'm always on YOUR side for long-term-low-cost. :thumbup2:
 
Jerry I used the ball valve before the pump to eliminate the air bubbles in the lines before i start it up. is that safe. there are no leaks at all. i used the spiraflex hose because the clearbraid 1" hose to pump kept leaking dont know why. that stuff is way hard to get on the barbs. Now one other question, Can you damadge the pump if the barb goes too far into the pump?(ex; the barb has a 2" thread section on it, and you just keep turning into the pump)thankx
 
Every fitting and connection is a potential leak.. fewer is better.
a bleeder-valve is a smart addition, but why would air get in the line,
if you "never run the tank out of water" ??
I guess you drain your tank for travel, Eh? ..that's fine.

Stick with brass hose barbs, and nybraid hose won't leak.

Don't use straight-threaded fittings, and they won't thread unusually deep in the head.

I avoid the semi-rigid spiraflex for serviceability.
serviceability facilitates the "rapid elimination of downtime."
 
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