Need to Strip Sikkens

MOTG1

New member
I have a large deck to strip and stain. It has had years of Sikkens applied (at least 4 coats).

Would like to try F-18... Anyone care to share strength levels for tough Sikkens strip? Also, how is the vertical dwell? Is there an additive needed to get it to stay on the vert a good, long time?

about the pics: homeowner distracted me and I forgot to take photo of the main section of deck. All of those different colors is from a previous contractor - different story.
 

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Lets put it this way....mix it as strong as possible and then mix more in. Sikkens is awful and 4 coats is gonna take some serious dwell. That orange on the rails looks like solid stain, f18 probably wont eat that

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image.jpgThanks, Chaz! You're right about the solid, and there's a lot more behind me. It's what the previous contractor used. I have no idea what it is and I've never tried to strip solid stain. What would you recommend for that?

By the way, here are some photos of his attempt to remove the Sikkens with a Home Depot pressure washer and...zero tip???
 

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This your first deck to strip? So you didn't do a test spot?

Wood restoration 101 always do a test spot when stripping tough stains so you know what you up against!
 
He tore that wood up bad, looks like the handrail is starting to rot in that picture on the end. Will need a lot of sanding. I don't know man, if thats 4 coats of solid stain Id be worried, and I've done a lot of decks.

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Thanks. I appreciate the feedback and understand that it's a tough job. This is for a new customer who has endured a nightmare with the other contractor. The deck is in 4 different colors, has chewed up wood, and he has just stopped coming (still has his Home Depot PW on her patio though) and answering the phone.

They are willing to pay what it takes to get it right. It's a large, double deck with stairs leading down to a dock. As you can imagine, replacement would be astronomical!

I've never dealt with Sikkens, and I haven't submitted a quote yet (we've done other work for her). I'm hoping that you all have some input on stripper that can work...instead of testing several products, or mixing my own caustic and seeing what happens. Would much rather go in and test a product or two thanks to the expertise you guys can offer.

Again, I really appreciate it!
 
With solid stain its very hard to remove like others have said, one job that we did last year we did a test spot on the deck and the stripper removed the solid stain (So I thought) come to find out it was where the deck was low to the ground the stain failed. As for the rest of the deck that was off the ground we tried using the stripper with no luck we even bought 2.5 gals of Soy gel and that never helpped. The only thing that we where able to do was sand every sq. inch of the deck to remove the stain, it took a very very long time. I'm telling you this because you will probably have to sand the boards and railing to remove it, I would price it high to cover the time you will be on the job removing the old stain. Once the old stain is removed sell the customer on some good stain, we use Baker's Gray Away sold by http://www.SouthernStainAndSeal.Com I know that others on the site use Armstrong. Just remind them if they use a premium stain as those they will not have to strip the deck saving them money down the road!

Good luck, if you have any questions or need anything give david at southern stain and seal a call he will walk you through the steps!
 
The problem also with purely mechanical removal is I find it can be almost impossible to get all the stain out of the cracks between the boards and if the wood is old and cracked the solid stain get inside those cracks and you can't sand that out.

How much of the deck was stained with the orange stuff? And is the dark brown stain also a sikkens? It looks like it has matted out some, normally the Sikkens I've seen is kind of shiny. So I would imagine the brown you should be able to strip.

If that were my customer, my course of action would probably be to strip the floor surfaces and stairs only, sand them down and then do a solid stain on the remainder of the rails. If there is a lot more of that orange colored railing I don't think it's worth the trouble to strip it. You could go with a two tone look and do a good oil stain like Matthew talked about on the floor and then go with a solid stain on all the railings. Some people do a white railing with a nice natural colored floor.

If there was only a few feet of the railing stained orange I might try to strip it along with the brown railings but sounds like there is a lot of that to strip
 
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