Muratic Acid Question
- Thread starter Ronniels
- Start date
Jon
Member Specialist
Ronniels,
Personally I would never use the stuff, I have not cleaned brick so perhaps it works with it but if a customer wanted me to use it I would walk away from the job and tell him to be sure and use very heavy rubber gloves.
My opinion only, many do use it and have good luck with it. I have no problem with them using it, just not going to be one that does.
Personally I would never use the stuff, I have not cleaned brick so perhaps it works with it but if a customer wanted me to use it I would walk away from the job and tell him to be sure and use very heavy rubber gloves.
My opinion only, many do use it and have good luck with it. I have no problem with them using it, just not going to be one that does.
Bigboy
Member
Your not wanting a ever long dwell time,your not wanting it to soak into the brick every long.
Soak the brick with water first as your not wanting to spray on a dry surface as the brick will soak it all in and you cann't wash it out but later on the weather will draw it out leaving white like salt areas.Soak the brick wall with water and apply the acid to nomore then you can wash off before it dries.A flo-jet or sur-flow pump is a quicker way of appling the acid but a pumpup will work.
Soak the brick with water first as your not wanting to spray on a dry surface as the brick will soak it all in and you cann't wash it out but later on the weather will draw it out leaving white like salt areas.Soak the brick wall with water and apply the acid to nomore then you can wash off before it dries.A flo-jet or sur-flow pump is a quicker way of appling the acid but a pumpup will work.
Gull Maint>
New member
CAUTION !!!!
I don't want to scare anyone I use muriatic acid regularly but have never cleaned brick walls with it.I will tell you this over the years customers have suggests on numerous occasions that I use muriatic acid to clean almost anything(including electric motor casings in refridgeration units).Doing this would have caused thousands of dollars in damage!!!
You say you've used muriatic acid before that's good. Are you aware that it will etch glass if it dries on the glass?I have heard that some bricks can be easily ruined with acid(not all bricks are created equal) test,test,test!!
Makes sure you have a high alkaline/base detergent handy and neutralize after using the acid.
Personally I would consult with building restoration chemical manufacturers(like all of us you are probably pressed for time).Take an hour or 2 one morning and call around there are less aggressive acids used for these purposes.
Just one more note on contact acid is capable of killing vegetation,blinding the user,burning your skin,etc..Know your dilution ratios and watch your wind blown mist.
OK I've gone on and on long enough BECAREFUL and GOODLUCK.
REMEMBER A $300 JOB CAN STILL EASILY CAUSE $300,000 IN DAMAGE,and I'm sure the person who suggested this isn't going to chip in.
P.S. I clean concrete and brick pavers with acid all the time, just respect the properties of the products you use and follow proper safety precauctions << my 8002 cents (sorry it's so long,I'll get off the soap box now)
JOHN (GULL MAINTENANCE CORP)
I don't want to scare anyone I use muriatic acid regularly but have never cleaned brick walls with it.I will tell you this over the years customers have suggests on numerous occasions that I use muriatic acid to clean almost anything(including electric motor casings in refridgeration units).Doing this would have caused thousands of dollars in damage!!!
You say you've used muriatic acid before that's good. Are you aware that it will etch glass if it dries on the glass?I have heard that some bricks can be easily ruined with acid(not all bricks are created equal) test,test,test!!
Makes sure you have a high alkaline/base detergent handy and neutralize after using the acid.
Personally I would consult with building restoration chemical manufacturers(like all of us you are probably pressed for time).Take an hour or 2 one morning and call around there are less aggressive acids used for these purposes.
Just one more note on contact acid is capable of killing vegetation,blinding the user,burning your skin,etc..Know your dilution ratios and watch your wind blown mist.
OK I've gone on and on long enough BECAREFUL and GOODLUCK.
REMEMBER A $300 JOB CAN STILL EASILY CAUSE $300,000 IN DAMAGE,and I'm sure the person who suggested this isn't going to chip in.
P.S. I clean concrete and brick pavers with acid all the time, just respect the properties of the products you use and follow proper safety precauctions << my 8002 cents (sorry it's so long,I'll get off the soap box now)
JOHN (GULL MAINTENANCE CORP)
Les Howington
New member
How long since the brick has been laid? If it is over 2 months multiple your price times 1.5. If it is over 3 months old doulble it. The longer the mortar cures the harder to come off. Cleaners like SureKleen and NMD-80 work great and are safer but not on brick that is more than a few weeks old. The problem is you can't get enough dwell time to loosen the harder, older mortar before the chemicals either dry or soak in. Those chemicals are weaker and require longer dwell times.
That's where muratic acid comes in to play. Thats why most brick cleaners use it is because it is stronger and will do the job on older mortar with little dwell time. One caution, don't use it on white or light sand colored bricks. It will discolor them.
Like Bigboy said the main thing is you don't want it to soak into the brick. Wet the wall good before applying the acid. 2 ways to apply it. Either downstream or through an acid injector. An acid injector goes on the end of the wand just like an x-jet nozzle. Mix 20% muratic acid, 2 parts water-1 part acid, add a couple generous squirts of Joy dish detergent to a gallon of the acid and water mixture. Apply with the injector to the already wet wall and
let dwell about 5 minutes. Don't let it dry. if its drying, rinse it and start over doing smaller sections. If it doesnt loosen the mortar smears, cut back a little on water or let it dwell longer. If its not fizzing it isnt working. Also, the reason for the soap is to keep the acid on the wall long enough to do it's job. If it doesnt appear to be staying on the wall, add a little more soap.
If you downstream, use the acid straight from the bottle, add a couple squirts of Joy and apply the same way.
Rinsing is important! I always say, when you think you have it rinsed, rinse it again.
If you're worried about brass fixtures or windows, apply a sodium metasillicate truck soap to the windows and fixtures before appling the acid to neutralize any overspray that comes in contact.
To lessen your labor go around the house first thing with a long handle metal scraper and knock off all the mortar tags you can. The acid is for removing the smears left behind not the larger tags.
Remember, these methods, mixtures and dwell times are for a 20% baum of hydrocloric (muratic) acid. You can buy it at Home Depot in 4 gallon cases for around $8 a case. 2 cases should clean a fair sized house.
Les
That's where muratic acid comes in to play. Thats why most brick cleaners use it is because it is stronger and will do the job on older mortar with little dwell time. One caution, don't use it on white or light sand colored bricks. It will discolor them.
Like Bigboy said the main thing is you don't want it to soak into the brick. Wet the wall good before applying the acid. 2 ways to apply it. Either downstream or through an acid injector. An acid injector goes on the end of the wand just like an x-jet nozzle. Mix 20% muratic acid, 2 parts water-1 part acid, add a couple generous squirts of Joy dish detergent to a gallon of the acid and water mixture. Apply with the injector to the already wet wall and
let dwell about 5 minutes. Don't let it dry. if its drying, rinse it and start over doing smaller sections. If it doesnt loosen the mortar smears, cut back a little on water or let it dwell longer. If its not fizzing it isnt working. Also, the reason for the soap is to keep the acid on the wall long enough to do it's job. If it doesnt appear to be staying on the wall, add a little more soap.
If you downstream, use the acid straight from the bottle, add a couple squirts of Joy and apply the same way.
Rinsing is important! I always say, when you think you have it rinsed, rinse it again.
If you're worried about brass fixtures or windows, apply a sodium metasillicate truck soap to the windows and fixtures before appling the acid to neutralize any overspray that comes in contact.
To lessen your labor go around the house first thing with a long handle metal scraper and knock off all the mortar tags you can. The acid is for removing the smears left behind not the larger tags.
Remember, these methods, mixtures and dwell times are for a 20% baum of hydrocloric (muratic) acid. You can buy it at Home Depot in 4 gallon cases for around $8 a case. 2 cases should clean a fair sized house.
Les
Throughout this tread and others I have read regarding working with acid and how it can etch glass and other materials, I havent heard anyone mention what it can do to fabfic.
I havent used muratic acid much but expect it would have much the same affect on fabric (especially cotton) as battery acid, even in a diluted form.
Here is a trick I leaened when I worked for Sears Automotive in the battery dept many years ago. The week I started the manager said they furnish uniforms but it would take a week and a half to get them in. In the mean time I wore jeans an t-shitrs. About 4 days after starting, i did laundry, when i pulled the jeans out of the washer all 4 pairs of jeans were in shreds. I had not spilled any acid on myself. It was from the residue (which wasnt even wet) that had been on my hands from handeling batteries. Everywhere I had touched my cloths produced a hole when washed. I found out later that the uniforms being provided were made of synthetic(polyester if I remember right). The acid would not harm the synthetic. I lost money the first week replacing the cloths I ruined. I went to Goodwill and found a pair of polyester slacks to wear till the uniforms came in.
Again I'm not sure if muratic acid has the same affect, but it's something to keep in mind. Has anyone seen the same affect with muratic acid?
I havent used muratic acid much but expect it would have much the same affect on fabric (especially cotton) as battery acid, even in a diluted form.
Here is a trick I leaened when I worked for Sears Automotive in the battery dept many years ago. The week I started the manager said they furnish uniforms but it would take a week and a half to get them in. In the mean time I wore jeans an t-shitrs. About 4 days after starting, i did laundry, when i pulled the jeans out of the washer all 4 pairs of jeans were in shreds. I had not spilled any acid on myself. It was from the residue (which wasnt even wet) that had been on my hands from handeling batteries. Everywhere I had touched my cloths produced a hole when washed. I found out later that the uniforms being provided were made of synthetic(polyester if I remember right). The acid would not harm the synthetic. I lost money the first week replacing the cloths I ruined. I went to Goodwill and found a pair of polyester slacks to wear till the uniforms came in.
Again I'm not sure if muratic acid has the same affect, but it's something to keep in mind. Has anyone seen the same affect with muratic acid?
The brick masons are currently using Muratic on these houses, but they don't have time to do them is why they are hiring us.
The houses do not have grass yet, so vegetation is not a prob.
We are cleaning them each within a day or so of when they are finished (as our schedule allows) some may set as much as a week at most though.
The houses do not have grass yet, so vegetation is not a prob.
We are cleaning them each within a day or so of when they are finished (as our schedule allows) some may set as much as a week at most though.
Jon
Member Specialist
I enjoyed reading what you guys say about Muratic Acid, and when I read what Les says I listen because I know he knows acids very well.
Still I just don't see a need for it doing what I do, perhaps if I cleaned brick and other products I might have to give serious thought to using it but just not something I wish to touch.
And NO I am not scared of it so forget about thinking that, it won't hold water with me.
Still I just don't see a need for it doing what I do, perhaps if I cleaned brick and other products I might have to give serious thought to using it but just not something I wish to touch.
And NO I am not scared of it so forget about thinking that, it won't hold water with me.