Muratic acid !!!on concrete

El Flojo

El Flojo

New member
Sorry guys i looked for the tread on here but didnt find the answer i was looking for. I have to bid on a hospital here and their main. man was told to put muratic acid on the floor to remove gum,long story short theres orange blotches all over the entrance and the would like it removed but they need alot more work done aswell. Its an eyesoar when you walk in what can i use to remove or lighten them without hurting or etching the crete? its a new hospital and they like to keep it clean. thanks for you help fellas:)
 
Will try to post some pics later
 
If they did not properly dilute the acid then those orange stains are where they burned the concrete. Battery acid does the same thing on residential driveways. Does tend to look a lot like rust which is removed by acid...but putting acid on top of an acid burn will make matters worse.

I have had some guys tell me that by treating the orange spots with a strong alkaline they were able to slightly "reverse" the acid burns. Not get rid of them entirely but lighten them. There is not much I know of that will get rid of the burn look completely short of removing layers of concrete.
 
I would tell the guy who told you to use muratic on concrete not to give any more advice to anyone. YOu get gum up with heat. Easiest way to do it.
 
Brian i am bidding on the hospital. the maint. man is the one that was told to use that by a local dist. I told them it was ruined and the stains will not come off. they said what ever it is what ever the cost do it. so i have to find something to remove those stains with. I think that will be the deal breaker for a monthly cleaning contract.
 
has any one tried to etch it and use a bonding agent and mabey reapply the cream? not sure if it will work but im gonna try that in the A.M. here in my driveway
 
do an overlay
 
I do not know chemicals very well; however nobody said anything about pressurized steam. Turn your pressure washer to pure steam. Use a zero degree nozzle. I am assuming that your unit will only be able to hit 400 to 700 psi or so, if you can hit 2000+ then use a 15 or 25 degree nozzle. Try to have the nozzle set at a lower Orifice size than normal. This will increase your pressure. I have ran into rust stains, and other orangey stains before. I am not saying that with your unit it will be gone, but it should be lighter. If you take your time and clean it for 10's of minutes and not just 3 minute total, In our experience it will come off or at least turn a light pastel color. Repeat several days in a row. Try this sooner than later. But be careful not to etch the concrete or cement.

You will need close to 300 to get the result I am talking about. Go to your dealer to see if they can do this for you by lowering your GPMs and raising your BTU's. 310 degrees is ideal, however if you can get only 250 at 1,000 psi, that should work, just not as effectively as the higher temps. At 250, you will see the stain become lighter.

Past 2,500 psi and you are not doing anything good in this case. You need higher temp and GPM's between 5.5 and 6.0 more over than pressure.

1. Steam
2. GPM
3. Pressure

In that order.

Again, if chemical can do it and the EPA has no issues, then by all means do the chemical. It will be faster and maybe a better result. I just do not know what chemical to use. Try Chris from Superior. he is your man when needing to know about chenicals.
 
Cover it. There is the guy in Raliegh that covers concrete with decorative overlays. But just put a regular lay of thin concrete on it.
 
Check with your local PROSOCO dealer and ask for 800 Stain Remover. I have used it on numerous occasions with excellent results. This is one of those "Hero making" solutions - no one was able to fix it until you arrive with your amazing knowledge, thereby making yourself the Hero!

P.S. Do a test using an un-marked spray bottle, so as not to give away your MoJo!
 
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