Just let go

I have taken several pumps off engines and never had any problems. Have you tried swearing at it? It sounds like something is hung up somewhere.
 
Pump Shaft- key issues

yep, the service department night-mare,
is telling someone "it should only take a few minutes to change the pump,
and the shaft-key has the two shafts locked together. . :yikes:
Cavitation causes the pulsation which directly "chatter" the shafts.
this problem is WAY more pronounced on tank-fed systems.
Pushing water into it's face is the only way to minimize this cavitation.

bummer dude.. expensive, time consuming bummer.:thud:

We always tack-weld shaft-keys in place,
we use as long a piece as will fit,
we replact the original "set-screw" with a hardened stainless-steel version.
and we lube the shafts with hi-temp anti-sieze compound.

Belt drive is the way to go !!
gear reduction is next-best.. WAY fewer shaft problems. :yes:

good luck with the 36" tire-irons. Eh?

..and remember..
the pump adapter housing is replaceable,
the side-case of the motor is more expensive.

..and if you have to heat the shafts.. . :grin-devilish:
know were the lawnmower shop is located, for quick access to a new motor shaft-seal.
 
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well, I broke the pump flange on another pump before trying the same thing. So I just ordered a new pump today before it got that far. That pump and engine work fine, just was going to put the pump on a newer engine. So now I have a back up unit, which is fine with me. But what a pain in the A$$
 
Common problem, usually they are rusted together and the key may get messed up making the problem worse. I always assemble them with anti seize compound and use a hardened key to eliminate those issues.

Problem with trying to pry them apart is what do you pry against? You don't want to put too much pressure against the engine housing. I will use some metal and spread the load but I am always leery of cracking the engine housing.
 
Harbor Freight has pry-bars that have very flat, wide face,
and they are about 2 ft. long.. very helpfull leverage.
But ..on some pumps, you still have to be quite convicing. Eh?

just do belt drive and you enjoy "Longer-Term-Lower-Cost".
 
The top and bottom of the flange in the center on the pump should have a hole that is threaded. Find a blot that will thread through that towards the engine. You will need two, one on top and one on bottom. This is to push the pump away from the motor. Little bit on each one at a time and it will come off. When you re-assemble, use anti-seize compound on there. Best of luck, they can be a pain, but not if you have the threading and the bolts.
 
I use 2 LARGE screwdrivers placed 180° from each other and pry evenly on both sides. Prying one side at a time can tend to bind the shaft.


Of course, I've had to take a ball peen hammer to the flange to break it out of the way for the torch, too.
 
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