If you own an F250

Squirtgun

Squirtgun

New member
Please check your bottom starter bolt.We found out today they can/will and do vibrate out and leave you stranded.
Thankfully for us it happened during the day with a Ford dealership(not that they were any help and didn't have the parts in stock) and a tractor supply close by.
The starter flange that bolts to the trans housing is aluminum as the bolt vibrates out it will strip the threads.I would like to say the it was a quick repair,but it wasn't about 3 hours of trial and error and 4 trips back and forth to tractor supply to finally get the right stuff.
I ended up pulling the starter back in place with a 4" C-clamp and using a 3" bolt and stacked washer to get the darn thing bolted back together.
I then took it to a shop that specializes in auto electric and starters.The guy complimented my repair and said that is how they fix the problem since most people don't want to pay to have their starter pull and sent out to a machine shop to be tapped out for a new larger bolt.
Do your self a favor throw 3"-5/16" bolt,8- 5/16" flat washers.1-5/16" lock washer and a matching 5/16" nut and a large c-clamp in your tool box.You'll thank me later.
 
what year superduty?
 
Squirtgun said:
Please check your bottom starter bolt.We found out today they can/will and do vibrate out and leave you stranded.
Thankfully for us it happened during the day with a Ford dealership(not that they were any help and didn't have the parts in stock) and a tractor supply close by.
The starter flange that bolts to the trans housing is aluminum as the bolt vibrates out it will strip the threads.I would like to say the it was a quick repair,but it wasn't about 3 hours of trial and error and 4 trips back and forth to tractor supply to finally get the right stuff.
I ended up pulling the starter back in place with a 4" C-clamp and using a 3" bolt and stacked washer to get the darn thing bolted back together.
I then took it to a shop that specializes in auto electric and starters.The guy complimented my repair and said that is how they fix the problem since most people don't want to pay to have their starter pull and sent out to a machine shop to be tapped out for a new larger bolt.
Do your self a favor throw 3"-5/16" bolt,8- 5/16" flat washers.1-5/16" lock washer and a matching 5/16" nut and a large c-clamp in your tool box.You'll thank me later.
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Thanks Scott
 
Seems the 6.0 has a lot of quirks, give me the 7.3 much better motor IMHO :shout:
 
Lou,
The weakest points on a 6.0L are the head bolts(factory installed torque to yield when they should have installed head studs),egr cooler(the new style has interior fin like a radiator that separate from vibration)oil cooler(clog when the egr cooler fails) and egr valve(the valves coke up because most guys never put the truck through it's paces as a daily drivers.It's real simple floor it a blow out the crap once in a while).early 1st generation 2003 6.0L were pretty sound,but in late 03 until the switch over to the 6.4L in 07(I think) Ford cut costs on the oil and egr coolers but using a design that was cheaper to manufacture.
This engine is a beast with lots of HP and torque.There are a good many on the road making 900+HP with the mods to fix the issues.I saw one recently that wrapped the rear axle because it didn't have track bars installed to help over come the extra foot pounds of torque the 750hp engine was throwing to the back wheels.
 
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