how do you lay your chemical on flatwork?

FTM-PTB

New member
Hey guys, need to hear how you are laying your chemical (SH for discussion purposes) for your flatwork. concrete in particular.

i know alot of you just DS. Ive been trying out the MTM foamer. i used to just pump spray it (which takes WAY too much time when your doing large surface areas, and the amount of $$$ spent on new ones bc they go bad so quick with the SH).

I like the foam and the fan on the cannon, but i DONT like the dilution factor. not sure exactly what it is, but i am really starting to notice a major difference in results by it being diluted in the foamer rather than the straight SH in the pump sprayer.

I like the effects of the surfactant, but again, the dilution with the foamer is no bueno.


leaning towards just getting a chem tank (50-125 gallons) and a shurflo and just going that route..

PLEASE give me some opinions or suggestions. I appreciate everything guys.
 

Chris Dubbs

Member
We use the X-jet on concrete with great results. Fan or distance spray, mix ratio and 10 different proportioners, ya can't go wrong.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

Rapid HotClean

New member
Exactly what Chris said. Except we don't use the proportioners.

Love my M5 X-Jet. It's also used by the King of Concrete, Mr. EBC himself - Carlos Gonzales.
 

814jeffw

Active member
Depends on the surface area and what we are dealing with. Small patios and most sidewalks are just sprayed with a pump sprayer. Large areas are more likely to get treated with the roof cleaning setup. DS will work on some light stuff,..but the heavy growth we typically see on concrete would take too many applications and still may not be effective enough.

Not sure how much concrete you get into,...but "straight SH" is typically 12.5%,...even with rinsing a Shurflo after use,..I don't think it will last that long with 12.5%. I know some roof guys get decent life from the Delevan 5800-5850,..but even then it's typically from 4%-6% in most cases.

To get any life out of a pump spraying 12.5% you're going to need something in the "plastics",..like Kynar or even Poly will work for a while if rinsed throughly. 12.5% is harsh on equipment,... but even the worst mold on concrete is no match for it,..so I sometimes use it straight also,..especially on those HEAVY green circular spots that really hangs on to concrete.

Not sure if you have an onboard compressor,..but we modify our pump sprayers with a tire valve to eliminate pumping. Just use an air chuck that reads the PSI while you're using it. Perfectly safe. We also upgrade the hose and put on better wands that are connected to the hose with stainless quick couplers so they can be rinsed after each use,..makes all the difference. I but 6' 3/8" PVC whip hoses made for air,..you can cut these in half and have two 3' hoses,..each with a 1/4" brass threaded end that a QC threads right onto.

We use these wands,..I just remove the hose bard it comes with and adapt it down to 1/4" and install a stainless QC and now you have a removable wand that can be rinsed.

http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/10898

Jeff
 

socalkol

New member
Depends on the surface area and what we are dealing with. Small patios and most sidewalks are just sprayed with a pump sprayer. Large areas are more likely to get treated with the roof cleaning setup. DS will work on some light stuff,..but the heavy growth we typically see on concrete would take too many applications and still may not be effective enough.

Not sure how much concrete you get into,...but "straight SH" is typically 12.5%,...even with rinsing a Shurflo after use,..I don't think it will last that long with 12.5%. I know some roof guys get decent life from the Delevan 5800-5850,..but even then it's typically from 4%-6% in most cases.

To get any life out of a pump spraying 12.5% you're going to need something in the "plastics",..like Kynar or even Poly will work for a while if rinsed throughly. 12.5% is harsh on equipment,... but even the worst mold on concrete is no match for it,..so I sometimes use it straight also,..especially on those HEAVY green circular spots that really hangs on to concrete.

Not sure if you have an onboard compressor,..but we modify our pump sprayers with a tire valve to eliminate pumping. Just use an air chuck that reads the PSI while you're using it. Perfectly safe. We also upgrade the hose and put on better wands that are connected to the hose with stainless quick couplers so they can be rinsed after each use,..makes all the difference. I but 6' 3/8" PVC whip hoses made for air,..you can cut these in half and have two 3' hoses,..each with a 1/4" brass threaded end that a QC threads right onto.

We use these wands,..I just remove the hose bard it comes with and adapt it down to 1/4" and install a stainless QC and now you have a removable wand that can be rinsed.

http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/10898

Jeff

That sounds awesome, can we get a couple pictures when you have time of your modified pump ups?
 

Newlook

Member
Xjet M5 .......Like Mr. Ted from Rapid Clean. That's why they call him Rapid Clean - Mr. Fast he is!!!!!!
 

john neilson

Roundtable Host 2009
Hey guys, need to hear how you are laying your chemical (SH for discussion purposes) for your flatwork. concrete in particular.

i know alot of you just DS. Ive been trying out the MTM foamer. i used to just pump spray it (which takes WAY too much time when your doing large surface areas, and the amount of $$$ spent on new ones bc they go bad so quick with the SH).

I like the foam and the fan on the cannon, but i DONT like the dilution factor. not sure exactly what it is, but i am really starting to notice a major difference in results by it being diluted in the foamer rather than the straight SH in the pump sprayer.

I like the effects of the surfactant, but again, the dilution with the foamer is no bueno.


leaning towards just getting a chem tank (50-125 gallons) and a shurflo and just going that route..

PLEASE give me some opinions or suggestions. I appreciate everything guys.

same here. depends how bad it is, DS, or roof mix. I always DS after it is rinsed and im done.
 

Walker Services

New member
Pre treat with X Jet (no proportioner). After rinse if we need to add a little more to the stubborn area's, then we just post treat with a pump-up sprayer.
 

814jeffw

Active member
Here are a couple pictures,...

0701141138.jpg 0701141139.jpg 0701141141.jpg 0701141137.jpg

The pump and handle are now one piece,..I plastic weld the handle down so it isn't always sliding up and down,...I also plastic weld the bottom where the seal is,..these tend to start to come up through the center,..although I think the the top piece would stop it anyhow from coming out the top of the pump, I still seal the bottom. The pop off is fastened shut because I like to put in more than the recommended amount of air,...I'm not suggesting others do this,..it's just what I do. Before adding the hose, I also use a two part epoxy like Gorilla Glue to the male hose barb on the jug,..then slide the hose over and clamp it down,..never leaks this way.

Been using these modified this way for around 10m years,..never an issue.

* Plastic welder equals a blow torch and spray paint caps.

Jeff
 

BrooksPW

New member
I pressure wash then use my 12v roof cleaning setup for it, looks better lasts longer.. sometimes downstreaming works unless its really bad. easiest way to do it I think.
 

The Cleaner

Vetran Washer 30 Years Plus
I pressure wash then use my 12v roof cleaning setup for it, looks better lasts longer.. sometimes downstreaming works unless its really bad. easiest way to do it I think.

I do the same thing, we do miles of sidewalks and down streaming is a waste of chemical. I rip it off with a surface cleaner, then just lightly spray it with the 12v and a light H/W mix and it's gone. I actually wait till I am all done with the job then just pull out 50 ft of hose and do a drive by.
 

Christopher

Moderator
Here are a couple pictures,...

View attachment 28190 View attachment 28191 View attachment 28192 View attachment 28189

The pump and handle are now one piece,..I plastic weld the handle down so it isn't always sliding up and down,...I also plastic weld the bottom where the seal is,..these tend to start to come up through the center,..although I think the the top piece would stop it anyhow from coming out the top of the pump, I still seal the bottom. The pop off is fastened shut because I like to put in more than the recommended amount of air,...I'm not suggesting others do this,..it's just what I do. Before adding the hose, I also use a two part epoxy like Gorilla Glue to the male hose barb on the jug,..then slide the hose over and clamp it down,..never leaks this way.

Been using these modified this way for around 10m years,..never an issue.

* Plastic welder equals a blow torch and spray paint caps.

Jeff


I have been thinking about doing something similar but I was looking for some kind of pressure valve so that you can only put so much air in the tank so it would not burst. I was thinking of putting a small 12 volt air compressor on the trailer with an air tank and when needed, just attach the air hose to the tank until air came out the pressure valve so we know it is full of air and could not put too much air to burst. Not sure if there is such a pressure switch or thing to do this to be safe.

Cool idea Jeff, thanks for sharing it.
 

814jeffw

Active member
Hey Christopher,..these jugs come with a pressure relief,..and I think it releases at 40 PSI. I like to put more than that in it,..so I don't have to worry about recharging with air during use. I have been doing this for a long time,..never an issue. Christopher,...get an air chuck that has a trigger and a gauge all in one,...and you can add air,..and then release the trigger and it will give a readout of PSI,..no need to remove the chuck to check PSI with separate gauge. Very safe,..Although there isn't alot of volume,..it still doesn't fill so fast that you risk bursting.


Jeff
 

Luis Orts

New member
For smaller jobs or spot treating, we use pump up sprayers.

Still debating between DS and our 12v for larger jobs.
 

BrooksPW

New member
Nick, That's how to do it brother. Time saver for sure! But everyone has their own ways, I like mine.
 
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