For those who really want to know......

Jim@Garagecleaning

Jim@Garagecleaning

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For those who really want to know what temperature and pressure they are truly running at the wand.


Go to this site, ask for Jim.

The point here is, not where you buy it, but if you have one.

So many have called asking me how to measure temp and pressure.... I mean, truly measure the temperature at the end of the wand. Thermostats that say 302 dose not mean you are at 302. If you believe that , I have a bridge to sell you real cheap.

Look at this link, buy it there or somewhere else. But this is what you will need to truly measure the temp at night on the job. don't be surprise if you thought you was at 200 degrees and only find out that you are at 165.


http://www.pressureparts.com/None-C-Tools-Pressure-Part-449048.aspx
 
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Good tool to have.

Some may be shocked at their gun output.

What kind of average temp/pressure loss you have experienced at the gun Jim? There are a lot a variables, but whats "your" average .
 
We have been selling them for a few years, great tool. Try it by the machine and then at the end of your hose. Depending on the temp outside you can see some startling results.
 
Jim@Garagecleaning said:
For those who really want to know what temperature and pressure they are truly running at the wand.


Go to this site, ask for Jim.

The point here is, not where you buy it, but if you have one.

so many have called myself up to ask how to measure.... truly measure the temperature at the end of the wand. Thermostats that say 302 dose not mean you are at 302. If you believe that , I have a bridge to sell you real cheap.

Look at this link, buy it there or somewhere else. But this is what you will need to truly measure the temp at night on the job. don't be surprise if you thought you was at 200 degrees and only find out that you are at 165.


http://www.pressureparts.com/None-C-Tools-Pressure-Part-449048.aspx
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip.
 
We have the ability to hit 310+ degrees. However, we do not hit that any more. I get nervous when the hoses start melting from the inside out. Ya thats a bad thing. Anybody says they hit 300 degrees, well they would need a unique R2 hose. It goes for about $7 to $12 a foot. we use 200 ft. You do the math.

However, we choose to keep the temp to 240 to 275 degrees with 250 degrees being the norm.

Even with extra thick padded leather gloves, it still burns your hands when dragging the hose. I hear it all day from my guys.... and you know what.... there right.

So we DO NOT measure the temp by the Thermostat setting. We measure the temp from the reel. Being that we use 1/2 inch and NOT 3/8, we have less than a 50 degree drop and only a 100 psi or so drop, on a mild day. ( 3/8 is double or more)

WE DO UNWIND the hose.

Anyone who hits those high temps will know that the hose will melt from the heat transfer while the hose is wound up on the reel. IT WILL MELT TO THE REEL AND THE ADJACENT HOSE ON THE REEL. We have to unwind the entire hose BEFORE we pressure wash.

This is a draw back if we only have a small area to wash. We are looking into a high pressure T with ball valve to hook into for a 50 ft hose bypassing the reel all together.

Just a note:

Almost anyone can hit 300 degrees with a pressure washer. What separates the big machines is GPM at 300 degrees. Since we have been on this forum, I have seen allot of websites saying " We hit 300 degrees " .... and thats fine.

However, if someone really wanted to check your BTU's @ 3,500 psi at 8 GPM's, well I am sorry, the math dose not add up. You would need boilers bigger than mine ( 1,100,000 ea boiler ) to hit 300 degrees at 8 GPM at 3,500 psi. Most likely 1.4 to 1.6 million BTU'S with 3/4 inch coils.

We hit 300 degrees with 1 boiler at 6 GPM / 2400 to 2800 psi depending on the air temp. The steam is more of a " DRY" steam, less wet. After a "O" Ring bursting recently, we found a new respect for the dry steam through pain.


NOTE: a 3/8 hose will have a greater heat loss than a 1/2 inch hose. There are many pluses for a 1/2 inch. TWO MAIN DRAW BACKS, it's a $*^$%#*&^$%^ to move it around and cost about 1/3 more per foot.
 
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the differance with this one and others is the quick connect?
 
You really want to make sure that you are as safe as possible when working with hot water or steam, hot water or steam burns suck! I have been burned with both.

I am changing out the O-rings on the gun, wand, jumpers, etc... when I am going to be using hot water just to be safe, it is cheap insurance.

Since adding the inline brass swivel I got from Bob at PressureTek, My O-ring usage has dropped dramatically. I used to go through O-rings almost every job but now, maybe once a week or two at the most. The swivel really makes a difference. Also the supplier. Once I got some from Bob, the quality is better and they do last a lot longer.

You can never be too safe!





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QUality of the quick connects has a significant effect on O-Ring life as well.

And Jim, Don't go hating on me, because I get 400 degrees. :D
 
Hansen SS 1/2 inch. They cost allot more than the made in china stuff. But boy can you tell the difference. Hansen is heavier, better ball bearings, better, tighter fit.

Cost..... About $40/50 each set.
 
Scott Stone said:
QUality of the quick connects has a significant effect on O-Ring life as well.

And Jim, Don't go hating on me, because I get 400 degrees. :D
Click to expand...

My Landa only gets 592 degrees at the tip. This is discouraging because my Honda 20hp can only push 29 gpm at that temp.:(

592 degrees is capable of evaporating up to 36 GPM negating the need for any recovery equipment. As a matter of fact anything over 550 degrees melts all toxins and changes their chemical makeup to that of simple rainwater. :cool: :cool:

Jim, what can I do to increase my gpm to the optimum 36 gpm while maintaning the 592 degrees, and BTW I only have $50.00 to spend on whatever upgrade you suggest.:D

(Just messing with you Jim, I woke up with a long day ahead of me and felt like a smarta$$.):eek:
 
tonyshelton said:
My Landa only gets 592 degrees at the tip. This is discouraging because my Honda 20hp can only push 29 gpm at that temp.

592 degrees is capable of evaporating up to 36 GPM negating the need for any recovery equipment. As a matter of fact anything over 550 degrees melts all toxins and changes their chemical makeup to that of simple rainwater.

Jim, what can I do to increase my gpm to the optimum 36 gpm while maintaning the 592 degrees, and BTW I only have $50.00 to spend on whatever upgrade you suggest.

(Just messing with you Jim, I woke up with a long day ahead of me and felt like a smarta$$.)
Click to expand...


Thanks Tony, I could not stop laughing when reading that. hahahahaha





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Superior Power Washing<O:p</O:p
Chris Chappell<O:p</O:p
361-853-2513<O:p</O:p
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Cleaning Driveways Sidewalks and Walkways in Corpus Christi Texas<O:p</O:p
Fleet Washing in Corpus Christi Texas
 
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