I'm having problems with my burner. We have a new igniter which is getting fire, the fuel is pumping, and the fan is blowing. But we still do not have fire. I cannot figure out what is going on. we are desperately trying to get this rig back up and running. just survey has all the facts. This is a Aladdin hotbox, 5.5 gallon minute, 3000 PSI, 12 volt Beckett burner.
Burner problems need help
- Thread starter Matt316
- Start date
smkservices
New member
Flow switch. You can check it with a magnet. Touch the magnet to the side of the flow switch and if it starts burning, then the switch is bad. Easy fix.
Are you sure you are getting 12 volts plus? It takes at least 12 volts.
Are you sure you are getting 12 volts plus? It takes at least 12 volts.
Chris Tharpe
New member
Check your (one of the following) flow switch, pressure switch or high limit switch. Your machine may have a combination of those switches and also check the thermostat to be sure it is working properly. The easiest way to check these is with a voltmeter or a test light. Have someone pull the trigger and make sure your getting power going into each switch and coming out of each switch. Some wire their switches to carry a power or ground to the fuel solenoid. You can check this by tracing wires back to the battery and figure out which one is being used for the switches.
Sirocco Jerry
Active member
desperately ??.. O.K..
If you have a fuel pressure guage, a magnet,
a multimeter,
a pair of 6" channel-lock pliers,
8 and 10" adjustables, and a pair of screwdrivers..
we'll have it figured out in 15 minutes or less.
call me before 1AM tonight, West Coast time, or in the morning, after 7AM my time,
(.. or I'll charge you for my time, and waking me up, but..)
We WILL find the problem, and a way to have you RUNning by within an hour.
before you call, do a survey..
is there fuel leaking from the heater ?? did you see fuel-mist coming from the stack when you opened the trigger-gun (heater running) ?
when you say "no fire".. do you mean ALL runs, and sounds normal, just no flame ??
Was it smoking a bit before it quit all together ? Black smoke ? white smoke ? .. they mean different things.
is the connector on the fuel solenoid plugged in ??
is there fuel in the tank ? (sorry, I HAD to ask.)
if you drop the bowl off the fuel filter, does fuel run out from the tank ??
if you can see thru the fuel lines, are there any bubbles in the fuel lines coming from, or going to the fuel pump ??
are the "air adjustment-bands" more than half-way open ??
IF the HotBox has a pressure-switch instead of a flow switch, does it leak water ??
does it have an adjustable temp control ??
Let's do this.
text me first.. 619-247-6492
..we don't want to wake the "normal people" in the house. :{)
Last edited:
810f250
Griffs Services PowerWash
An on call tech, Jerry thats dedication
Since you have a new igniter, ensure that its installed correctly (gap etc), it may be getting fire , but is the voltage to it adequate? Transformer? and if thats ok , then the switches, the other members suggested if all is well there, air bands, clogged fuel nozzle? , does you burner have lockout?
Since you have a new igniter, ensure that its installed correctly (gap etc), it may be getting fire , but is the voltage to it adequate? Transformer? and if thats ok , then the switches, the other members suggested if all is well there, air bands, clogged fuel nozzle? , does you burner have lockout?
Paul Kassander
New member
A quick way to check of you are getting fuel to the nozzle is to disconnect the copper fuel line from the fule solenoid to the assembly that runs in the air tube. If you squeeze the trigger and fuel squirts out you can eliminate the prsesure/flow switch, temp control, high limit (if equipped) and the fuel solenoid. If no fuel you will start by checking those and the fuel tank and filter.
If fuel is flowing and you have spark on the transformer/igniter you will need to pull out the electrodes and check the gap and ceramics for cracks and carbon buildup that can cause the unit to ground itself out. While you have this out check the fuel nozzle to be sure it is not clogged. If you remove it and the filter screen is full of junk it should be repalced. Fuel pressure should also be checked to make sure it is atomizing the fuel correctly, this should be at 120psi.
If fuel is flowing and you have spark on the transformer/igniter you will need to pull out the electrodes and check the gap and ceramics for cracks and carbon buildup that can cause the unit to ground itself out. While you have this out check the fuel nozzle to be sure it is not clogged. If you remove it and the filter screen is full of junk it should be repalced. Fuel pressure should also be checked to make sure it is atomizing the fuel correctly, this should be at 120psi.
I just wanted to tell everybody thank you for all the help today. All of your suggestions, gave me ideas and thoughts about what could be wrong. And a big thank you Jerry for not only posting on here, private messaging me, and giving me a call. but unfortunately the whole problem was, that my mechanic is colorblind and had connected some red wires to some black wires when he was installing a new igniter. it took me about 20 min. this morning with a wire diagram to rewire everything that he is changed including disconnecting and reconnecting the cad-eye.
Sirocco Jerry
Active member
Good point Nigel..
I have taught basic electricity to many people over the past 35 years..
rule # 5..
double-check EVERYthing as you go !
in troubleshooting.. that is rule # 1
Matt,
I believe the question you posted here has caused another great thread for newbies,
and anyone else muscling-through a heater problem.
Downtime sucks.
One more thing.. Bullet-Proofing for HV Ignitors..
beefy connections, quality battery,
and a 7 amp fuse to protect it.
Bullet-Proofing Rocks.
Having Problems with Burner