AR XW30.25 Pump Problem

N

NJWashingGuy

New member
When I was washing trucks the other day, I noticed that there was a good volume of water pissing out of the bottom of the pump between the pump head and the pump body. This was occurring when the pump was in bypass, but not when the gun was open. Any guess or idea of the likely issue???
Any help is appreciated. I can run it the way is I guess for a bit, but would like to fix it before I have to wash the next set of trucks, which will likely be next weekend. It has been bitter cold here, yes it is winterized between uses, but I have not had time to take it apart due to holiday commitments.
Thanks, Mike.
 
NJWashingGuy said:
When I was washing trucks the other day, I noticed that there was a good volume of water pissing out of the bottom of the pump between the pump head and the pump body. This was occurring when the pump was in bypass, but not when the gun was open. Any guess or idea of the likely issue???
Any help is appreciated. I can run it the way is I guess for a bit, but would like to fix it before I have to wash the next set of trucks, which will likely be next weekend. It has been bitter cold here, yes it is winterized between uses, but I have not had time to take it apart due to holiday commitments.
Thanks, Mike.
Click to expand...

Mike sounds like Packings
 
Is it tank fed or hose fed? If hose fed it could be the low pressure packings
 
I would say packings also. If you have a thermal relief I would check that also it may be running down the side of that and dripping off the head of the pump.
 
Turns out that it was a cracked middle piston. Didn't pull the head apart yet, will do that when the parts come in. Its bitter cold here and we just got about 24 inches of snow the other day. Russ is sending out the rebuild kits. Thanks for the replies and the help!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone!
 
Pressure Washer Bullit-Proofing

If your tank gets low on water, and the pump cavitates from air-bubbles
you could crack a plunger in a General TS 20mm series real easy,
but your AR is resistant to that..
AR pumps have beefier plungers..
beefier and more "resistant" to cracking that most others.
..and 22mm verions are quite thick.
I think you should check your water-filter for a clog of debris..
that can cause unusually bad cavitation.:moil:
Or,
If your unloader is NOT plumbed to bypass the water back to your water tank,
overheating in bypass can crack a plunger too.

This is why you all should NOT avoid "paying" a tech to help you
with trouubleshooting..
MOST machines come with "bugs" from the factory..
You want the equipment to be reliable..
Making sure it is set up perfectly, is part of the deal.

"Finding what broke" is about band-aids.
"How and Why things break" is troublshooting.
Making the system "Better than it was before"..
is about Bullit-Proofing.

I hope this helps
 
one more thing..
If tank fed, and you still have that thermal relief valve on the pump..
you can get cavitation from the bleeding air bubbles from the thermal relief.
They are designed for pressure-fed systems,
NOT for suction-feed from a tank.

And..
EVERYtime you remove the head from a pump,
inspect the plungers VERY closely for the tiniest of hairline cracks.
One little crack can turn into an exploded plunger..
aka.. exploded pump
aka.. a REALLY bad day.
 
Last edited:
Sirocco Jerry said:
If your tank gets low on water, and the pump cavitates from air-bubbles
you could crack a plunger in a General TS 20mm series real easy,
but your AR is resistant to that..
AR pumps have beefier plungers..
beefier and more "resistant" to cracking that most others.
..and 22mm verions are quite thick.
I think you should check your water-filter for a clog of debris..
that can cause unusually bad cavitation.:moil:
Or,
If your unloader is NOT plumbed to bypass the water back to your water tank,
overheating in bypass can crack a plunger too.

This is why you all should NOT avoid "paying" a tech to help you
with trouubleshooting..
MOST machines come with "bugs" from the factory..
You want the equipment to be reliable..
Making sure it is set up perfectly, is part of the deal.

"Finding what broke" is about band-aids.
"How and Why things break" is troublshooting.
Making the system "Better than it was before"..
is about Bullit-Proofing.

I hope this helps
Click to expand...

Jerry,
Thanks for the pointers. The filter is clear of debris and the bypass is 1/2 inch and feeds back to the tank. Will give it a good once over and hopefully be back up and running next week when the parts get here.
Happy New Year, Mike.
 
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