320 degree steam

bears

New member
Has anybody here tried using steam with there surface cleaners? I have a pressure washer that has a 320 degree steam setting on it. At that temp all you get is steam coming out. It would make water recovery much easyer.
 
do you guys ever freak yourselves out>?

I was cleaning my rally's the other day and it was steaming real good and i was like what id this hose just like busted and blew hot water all over me . .. . kinda scared me lol

I had a hose start smelling like it was burning up the other night. It turned a yellowish collor. That scared me.
 
do you guys ever freak yourselves out>?

I was cleaning my rally's the other day and it was steaming real good and i was like what id this hose just like busted and blew hot water all over me . .. . kinda scared me lol

How have you dodged the bullet this long?When it happens you'll find out just how fast you can really move.
 
do you guys ever freak yourselves out>?

I was cleaning my rally's the other day and it was steaming real good and i was like what id this hose just like busted and blew hot water all over me . .. . kinda scared me lol

That's how I ended up with second and third degree burns once. Steam burns hurt like hell! Just be thankful that you flatworkers have a place to run when something like that happens. The situation is a LOT worse when you are trapped in tight quarters, such as an attic, when that happens.
 
I have worked as a field machinist on steam turbine generators. We had to be careful of "invisible steam" leaks. We would walk around the generators with a broom handle and check for leaks. It would cut the broom handle like a laser. Steam can be bad news if not respected fully.
 
It only takes 180 degree hot water to burn the skin off your hand in like a few seconds and it hurts like it is on fire for days afterward. Morphine and the other medicine that they gave me for the pain did nothing at all. They told me that burn pain is the worse you will ever experience.

That is only a second degree burn where you don't need skin grafts. I hardly ever use anything over 200 degrees but I can if needed but after that accident I keep it only 180 or less.
 
I have worked as a field machinist on steam turbine generators. We had to be careful of "invisible steam" leaks. We would walk around the generators with a broom handle and check for leaks. It would cut the broom handle like a laser. Steam can be bad news if not respected fully.

Hey Thomas i still need to call you about the curb pressure washer i keep leaving your number at the office.
 
No worries Bear:cool:
 
Steam is a very useful product. But Volume and Pressure on steam is even more important. We ran 290 degrees when our O Ring blew. It was a new O Ring and only 40 minutes old. if you run steam with a smaller Boiler, you will have to divert most of your water flow away from your boiler and back to the water tank to hit those high temps. This low pressure low volume " Steam " has it's uses but not so much for "Flat work".

The Ideal steam for us when we do flate work is 290 degrees at 6 GPM at 2500 to 2800 PSI. ( We reach these temps and pressure at mid day 80 degrees, at night we have to drop pressure to 2100 +/- psi)

Let me tell you, if you can reach those numbers, gum will vaporize, deep rust stains will become allot lighter and other stains usually don't stand a chance. The wand becomes zero gravity. No pushing no man handling. Our setting of 6 GPM's feels allot lighter than one of those coin car washes. Feels as if the wand ( 5 Ft ) weighs only a pound if that. Run off is not an issue. There is none that makes it to the curb. We will not go past 290 under full pressure (Higher than 2000 psi). Have not found good enough O Rings for that. Found a hose though at $7.00 a ft. They called me and said they would deal at $5 a ft if I bought 400 ft. Do the math.

I need to go back to Hawaii... Was there for 3 weeks in May. Not enough.:rolleyes:
 

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Steam is a very useful product. But Volume and Pressure on steam is even more important. We ran 290 degrees when our O Ring blew. It was a new O Ring and only 40 minutes old. if you run steam with a smaller Boiler, you will have to divert most of your water flow away from your boiler and back to the water tank to hit those high temps. This low pressure low volume " Steam " has it's uses but not so much for "Flat work".

The Ideal steam for us when we do flate work is 290 degrees at 6 GPM at 2500 to 2800 PSI. ( We reach these temps and pressure at mid day 80 degrees, at night we have to drop pressure to 2100 +/- psi)

Let me tell you, if you can reach those numbers, gum will vaporize, deep rust stains will become allot lighter and other stains usually don't stand a chance. The wand becomes zero gravity. No pushing no man handling. Our setting of 6 GPM's feels allot lighter than one of those coin car washes. Feels as if the wand ( 5 Ft ) weighs only a pound if that. Run off is not an issue. There is none that makes it to the curb. We will not go past 290 under full pressure (Higher than 2000 psi). Have not found good enough O Rings for that. Found a hose though at $7.00 a ft. They called me and said they would deal at $5 a ft if I bought 400 ft. Do the math.

I need to go back to Hawaii... Was there for 3 weeks in May. Not enough.:rolleyes:

$2000 for a hose? Did you ask him if that came with gold plated fittings? lol
 
Steam is a very useful product. But Volume and Pressure on steam is even more important. We ran 290 degrees when our O Ring blew. It was a new O Ring and only 40 minutes old. if you run steam with a smaller Boiler, you will have to divert most of your water flow away from your boiler and back to the water tank to hit those high temps. This low pressure low volume " Steam " has it's uses but not so much for "Flat work".

The Ideal steam for us when we do flate work is 290 degrees at 6 GPM at 2500 to 2800 PSI. ( We reach these temps and pressure at mid day 80 degrees, at night we have to drop pressure to 2100 +/- psi)

Let me tell you, if you can reach those numbers, gum will vaporize, deep rust stains will become allot lighter and other stains usually don't stand a chance. The wand becomes zero gravity. No pushing no man handling. Our setting of 6 GPM's feels allot lighter than one of those coin car washes. Feels as if the wand ( 5 Ft ) weighs only a pound if that. Run off is not an issue. There is none that makes it to the curb. We will not go past 290 under full pressure (Higher than 2000 psi). Have not found good enough O Rings for that. Found a hose though at $7.00 a ft. They called me and said they would deal at $5 a ft if I bought 400 ft. Do the math.

I need to go back to Hawaii... Was there for 3 weeks in May. Not enough.:rolleyes:

Hope you had a relaxing time.

Couple questions:

What is your burner fuel consumption at the specs above?

Why do you drop the pressure at night?

It most have taken you some trials to determine the temps/pressures and flows.
How effective is 275 degs @ 6gpm or is 290 your most efficient temp

Just a thought, someone should design a secondary exterior bolted half coupling to protect the quick connects from catastrophic blowout.

Thank You ALL for your contributions to this board, it is a place of great learning
 
Nigel,

Good to hear from you.....


We for the most part run between 255 and 275. For years baked on gum we shoot it up to 280/290's. with only (1) 1.1 million BTU boiler on, 6 gpm cannot achieve 280's in the cold night air. We end up dropping the GPM's to 5.6 and Pressure to 2500 ish to achieve the 290 range. HOWEVER, if I was to turn both Boilers on....

Fuel is VERY efficient. The burners at set at 4 GPH each and the 3.3 liter Turbo Diesel Engine gets .75 GPH per pump. Thats at 1800 RPM's . Red line is 2900 RPM's
 
how do you all determine your temps? My hotbox has a thermostat on it but is there a way that I can tell if it is right, like a thermometer that I can put at my wand or something like that, just in case say a high limit switch goes out I could see it start climbing before everything blows apart.



Chris,

You need a Thermostat Gauge.

Go to http://www.higherpowersupplies.com/BN-3509.html Though you may not need the pressure part, it is good to know what you are at the end of the hose. Connect it to the quick connect at the end of the hose. Put your wand after that. Tie wand off and secure. Unwind all of your hose ( Nothing on the reel or corralled up) Run unit under full load for 5 minutes at the time of night that you usually do your work ( 3 am is a good time). After that test is complete, you will now your temp when you work. Afterwards, connect the unit to your reels and run the test again. If there is any difference in readings, ( Which there usually is) you will know your heat lost from the hose that you use.

You will be surprised what your Thermometer says at your control center and the actual reading at the end of an unwrapped hose 200 ft away.

So many times I hear someone say, "I hit 220 degrees all the time. All I have to do is turn my dial up to 220 and boy is it hot! " or " I changed out my thermostat for a 302 degree one and now I am at 300 degrees !". When they do this test, they find out that their 300 / 220 degrees experiences is only 170 and I don't hear from them about their 220 degree setup again.

You can only transfer so much heat depending on your BTU's of your boiler. There is no magic wand involved here. Nothing that you can change, with the exception of the nozzle on the boiler, to create a bigger heat exchange. Just simple Physics. :rolleyes:

There is one thing, you can lower the GPM's output. This will give your boiler less water to heat up. However, usually your 24 HP engine would stall before you can take advantage of this. How to correct that would be to pull off the pulleys and change your speed of your pump. Less RPM's less GPM's. This is not recommended for a novice and entails removing the belts and recalibrating the pulley system.
 
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